What's this cut called?

mistahbenn

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Hello. So I was cutting down a maple stick, in a tight area, but could bomb it out in metre chunks. Instead of the trad face, back cut and hinge, I decided I didn't need no hinge, so cut all the way thru the piece, small step at the back, then cut a face in the direction I wanted it to go, tug it off with the mini loader, worked a treat. No trying to match up cuts and creating hinges.
 
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  • #2
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If you're going to do it that way, why bother with a face at all? Without a hinge, a face seems to offer little in way of advantage. A snap cut is all it is.
 
If used to tip long chunks off a stem, a deep face makes them easier to push over.
Also it keeps them going in the right diection, more than just muscleing them over the round side of the stem.

But with a motorized implement pulling, you are right, as usual.
 
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  • #10
Burnham the face is put in for direction. Without sliding it off, it could fall of at an angle and smash the fence.
 
You were pulling it with power, no? Not pushing. For as short pieces as that, I'd not have thought the face was particularly useful, but it certainly does no harm...faces do not provide direction, hinges do.
 
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  • #15
8)Of course! The face closes as usual and drops off exactly like a conventional face backcut hinge. Try it out.
 
I have been using it for years. Wish I could pull a Murphy and claim I invented it, but it was actually shown to me by a former apprentice.
 
The face most certainly creates a loose tipping direction. But the wood that is tipping is free to spin and do whatever comes natural in the case of no hinge. Not knocking your method at all. Id be delighted to try it. Just adding to the discussion.
 
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  • #19
Again, with fat stumpy pieces, the face acts exactly as it would if it had a hinge, just moves quicker. The face closes, the piece pops off yo the desired drop zone.
 
This way, you got indeed the rotational function of the hinge, but not at all the retaining function. The weight of the log it self plays this role, but it works only with a short log, without any side offset of the CG (heavy side leaning or big limb departure).
 
I use a notch sometimes on short rounds to control their direction of tipping, and I have one of these with a lanyard attached that makes tipping them a breeze. Jam the end into the kerf BEFORE it sets down (like you would a wedge), finish the cut, and tip it right off. Of course a deeper face can make tipping unnecessary, but I don't like cutting faces in big wood any more than I have to while hanging on the side of it.

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Mistabenn,

I didn't follow the explanation completely.

Are you saying that you put in a full horizontal cut, then a sloping cut sorta like facecut, so that the block is sitting up there, ready to be directionally tipped off?

Sounds like another cut. Are you familiar with what Gord presented as the Magic Cut? Deep horizontal cut, way deeper than the center of gravity, cut a deep sloping cut to get a full dutchman'ed facecut, cut deeper than the center of gravity, then come in from the back, lower than the original horizontal? Another name that is more descriptive is the Sniped Snap Cut.

It falls on its own, with the rear bypass/ snap cut, directed to the lay with the facecut/ snipe.

Works great, and without having to haul up a rope and pull each piece, provided gravity and the facecut are working together.

You can drop smaller chunks or whole logs.
 
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