What's this cut called?

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  • #26
Sean no mine is different. Install pull rope. Make a horizontal cut 99% the way thru, put a wedge in to stop the cut closing, finish off the cut at the back, with a small step, now the piece is just being held by that step. Cut a face in the desired direction of fall, no dutchman or the likje. Have the rope pulled, (Or use a felling bar, or both), the face closes and the piece pops off.

Gonna add the magic cut the memory though, thanks!
 
Sean no mine is different. Install pull rope. Make a horizontal cut 99% the way thru, put a wedge in to stop the cut closing, finish off the cut at the back, with a small step, now the piece is just being held by that step. Cut a face in the desired direction of fall, no dutchman or the likje. Have the rope pulled, (Or use a felling bar, or both), the face closes and the piece pops off.

Gonna add the magic cut the memory though, thanks!

I AM with you on that Ben..
When there is often no need for the control of a hinge, why make one to have to fight..
I do it a little differently..
Cut the top cut of the face first, deep and only a slight angle.
then on the flat bottom cut of the face, bypass the top cut and just keep cutting straight back until the piece starts to settle.
pull out and cut the remaining strap on the back side.
at that point the piece will either just fall into the face, or you can put the saw away and easily push it over.
Its fast and easy.. Since there is no hinge, there is no need to worry about a bypassing the face cuts. A little bypass is actually intentional, just to make sure the cuts meet.
Once you get the rhythm down, its easy... 3 quick cuts and the piece just falls into the face..
the face can be very narrow, 15 degrees is plenty.. once the piece starts, it just keep going
Others do similar cuts. Its been talked about before..
 
The face is just a way to manipulate the hinge.

This is certainly true, either by intention or accidentally...though without a hinge as Benn describes, it's a moot point.

The face most certainly creates a loose tipping direction. But the wood that is tipping is free to spin and do whatever comes natural in the case of no hinge. Not knocking your method at all. Id be delighted to try it. Just adding to the discussion.

I can agree completely with Chris here. And as Stig is supporting the method, I cannot argue my earlier position very strongly :).

Sean no mine is different. Install pull rope. Make a horizontal cut 99% the way thru, put a wedge in to stop the cut closing, finish off the cut at the back, with a small step, now the piece is just being held by that step. Cut a face in the desired direction of fall, no dutchman or the likje. Have the rope pulled, (Or use a felling bar, or both), the face closes and the piece pops off.

Gonna add the magic cut the memory though, thanks!

Here Benn, you are most mistaken...you have indeed created a deep dutchman, from the apex of you horizontal and angled cuts on to the rear of the initial horizontal cut. But nonetheless I yield to your initial point...when the short, wide block tips to the humbolt face, even if the pull is a bit out of line with the lay, it should shift the block to that lay, so long as the speed of the pull is moderate, and the out-of-line pull is also moderate. But ONLY with a short, wide block...any piece of longer and less thick nature will not tend do so very strongly at all.

Interesting discussion, friends.
 
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  • #31
Thanks B. I did not make a humboldt, just a regular face cut. And i cut it to around 1/3 of the piece. And yes this is only good for short fat pieces!
 
I think there's a misunderstanding/miscommunication here. We're not talking about a 10' piece, but a short round, maybe 3' or 4' long. With a complete cut-through, and a face cut, whether shallow or deep, what you've done is create a straight edge for it to tip on, much like tipping over a box. if you tip a box, it doesn't suddenly twist and go toward a corner. It follows straight over the edge that is acting as its hinge when it tips. i've done the same thing Ben described, though I merely made my initial cut fairly deep, then made the face, with the original cut being well past it. Flip the wedge out and continue the pass through with the saw, sometimes finishing the very back edge from the back to eliminate pinch. Then tip the round off. It'll follow the "hinge" that the straight egde creates, even though there's no hinge wood.
 
Thanks B. I did not make a humboldt, just a regular face cut. And i cut it to around 1/3 of the piece. And yes this is only good for short fat pieces!

Sorry, lost that over the course of the thread...now I'll say that your method would work even better with a humbolt ::).

Agreed, Scott...but I felt the point need elaboration, perhaps unnecessarily.
 
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  • #35
Sorry, lost that over the course of the thread...now I'll say that your method would work even better with a humbolt ::).

Agreed, Scott...but I felt the point need elaboration, perhaps unnecessarily.

Indeed, the piece would slide off rather than pop off. I wanted it to pop off to bounce and clear that POS fence :D
 
Just make your pull harder and faster...it'll pop a good long way then, humbolt or conventional :lol:.

Thanks, Benn. You tolerate an old sawyer's contrariness well :).
 
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  • #37
Hehe not too hard B, otherwise it would hit the house :D thanks for all the input. Thats why I love coming to this place. Peace
 
PS. For Magic Cutting a species prone to barberchairing, be careful of how deep under the COG you get with bigger logs, I guess. It hasn't happened to me, but I don't recall having done it much except on Doug-fir, simply because its our dominant species here.
 
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  • #41
Rethinking the cut, how about cutting 95% te way thru, cutting a deep notch, then finishing the back strap, the piece should just fall off. Or is that what the magic cut is?
 
That is the way I do it.
Whether it is magic or not, I don't know.
I simply cut till the kerf starts to close, then a DEEP humboldt and snip the backstrap. Off she goes.
 
I always thought the magic cut was two cuts...one hella deep under cut and a back cut. mainly on 6' loggettes.

Big monkey chunks like that, I try to cut at an angle and just slide them off.
But you all are talking bigger than a chunk, more like a boulder.
Roll'em over and off!
 
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