check this truck out

From here that looks like a smokin deal.....
Not sure the actual towing capacity of that model, 3/4 ton will tow a decent size chipper with the diesel. Might have to upgrade the tow package, maybe even add helpers to the back.
Like I said, looks like a smoking deal....
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Im seriously concidering buying it.
I wonder if it would tow my steer skid loader just every now and again.
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I only tow it about once a month.
Id have to paint the truck as well .
Ive been looking at an 05 f 350 for 16000 with PSD but im trying to stay under 10 cant seem to find anything yet.
From what Ive read about the 6.5's, Ive heard there turds, but if the truck has been worked out of the problems it might be a good truck.

I have never rode in a truck with that motor. But I have heard the same as climber.

Look at & learn something. See what you think. Dont be bummed.

Do a Google search on that motor. Talk with some local wrench turners about it.
Ya Im not saying that, that truck is a turd but Ive heard of many horror storys about the 6.5 and 6.2. But then again some people cant find a thing wrong with the one they have. So I dont know its a toss up. But a good deal toss up.

I don't mind the 6.5, but the gear ratio sucks for anything but cruising. If you can, take a picture of the rear axle's diffental cover (need to see its shape), or the wheel with the hub cap off.

I have a 93 3/4T 4wd with a 454 and the same tranny as that truck. I've never confirmed it, but it has either 4.10's or 4.56's and pulled the 6klb grinder and 2klb utility bed without trouble. Starting off in second for most gettings around. The 6.5 should be comparable or better in torque.
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He took this and sent it to me
thanx for the advice tree folk


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Nother one i could get more


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Yeah, in front of the axle.

It is a full floater (good thing), I didn't know they offered them with that high of gearing. If it ends up being a problem you can swap the whole back axle out for under $300.
You will regret that 6.5L... trust me. been there done that.

The 6.5L is 2nd right behing the GM 6.2L diesel as the 2 worst diesel engines ever mass produced in light trucks.

The motor is a turd, and can be either very problematic, or run great, it's a crap shoot.
If the clutch goes out, be ready to be down for at least three weeks while they try to figure out how to bleed it, and even then it may never work right. I have seen that SEVERAL times before. Even did a half ton of that year in the garage, never could get it right with ALL new parts?
The 3.42 gears will KILL any gain you made with the diesel! Great for a contractor just hauling lumber and hand tools. Put a skidsteer on the back and I am afraid it will be miserable experiance!!
But gears and rear ends are cheap enough, as Carl pointed out, so thats an easy fix.
I will say to stay away from it, I don't care for the motor, like I say, it's a good one, or a junk one, and you will never know until you own it. That being the first generation with the Hyd. clutch is another big issue with me. I would rather swap out six auto trannies before I do another one of those clutches!
Wise choice for all the reasons previously stated. I had my nice chevy dually with a 454 and my neighbor had the same truck with the diesel which he always loved pointing out how much better the diesel was. Until the injection pump went, and then went again 100k later. Not much was said after that.
Bleeding the clutch/getting it back "right" is a major PITA.

Forgot about that nugget. You'd think they'd use some type of compression fitting using threads to pull it closed.... no joy, you stick the tube in and put in a roll pin, cheap, but stupid design.
Carl, I thought the Ranger design was terrible, until I did one of them!!!
ANYTHING is better than that non bleeding POS!!
I have a 93 3/4T 4wd with a 454 and the same tranny as that truck. I've never confirmed it, but it has either 4.10's or 4.56's.

Carl a quik way to check the ratio if the tag is gone. Is to jack up 1 rear wheel, make a mark at the bottom of the tire. Put a mark on the drive shaft and turn the tire 2 full revolutions while counting how many times the drive shaft turns. 2 turns on the wheel little over 4 turns on the drive shaft means 4.10 or 41/2 turns on the drive shaft means 4.56 ect ect.
Yeah, but I've never really cared, and that's quicker!

That is a good tip, although I'm fairly certain that you meant 1 tire revolution. The spider gears don't offer any mechanical advantage/disadvantage to the side gears or R&P. If you're driving along through some sloppyness and one wheel breaks free, it doesn't spin 2x the rpm it was originally going.

Hold the pinon steady, both tires off the ground with an open differential. Spine one tire, the other tire spins the opposite direction at an equal speed.

Any way you look at it, the side gears and spider gears don't offer mechanical advantage.
is there an option where the gearing in the pumpkin make Skwerls theory hold true? and I aint no mechanic, thats true from the get go. :)