Butt tying clip

mistahbenn

mistahbenn

Treehouser
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
1,661
Location
Brooklyn, New York
Had this tulip on a bank... took out the brush last week and left it to fall... I should have, in hindsight, cut off the buttress to stop that (retired) sling rolling up... or cut the notch higher.

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Nice work, Benn!!! Good thing you had that butt tied ... great technique with the POW! :thumbup:
 
That went well!

Ben, you do some big stuff the hard way. I enjoy your pics and vids a lot keep them coming!
 
I truly admire your tree work and hope to be as good as you someday. I always like your videos and pictures.
 
Never having done it with as big a stem or a slope this might not work, but we use chain in those instances and will notch it in. That probly would have snapped our 3/8"s chain though.
 
MasterBlaster said:
Chain has no give: I wouldn't use it, lest that was all I had to work with.
Click to expand...

With that little bit of line in the system, there isn't much give either.. was that 5 wraps? I can't seem to get 4 wraps to move, no matter how hard I try. Was that rope was visibly damaged by the porty? That sling was all thinned out.. Would take a physics genius to even approximate the forces involved.. They were huge... much more than in a rigging scenario.. With little at risk, its nice to be able to test a system like that and see what it does... SO next time, when the house or the pool fence is down hill you have something to go by ... NICE WORK BEN.. thanks for sharing..
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
Cheers Murph.... I could have had less wraps on the porty... The sling took most of the force... the timber hitch was not tight, so I think when it tightened the sling wasn't too shock loaded, more dynamic. Yes I'd like a physics guy to work it all out. It was a good exercise to undertake. And we can all learn something from it hey! :)

No rope damage.
 
Well done. I always appreciate watching someone with experience drop a tree that way. :thumbup:
I like to have several "options" to consider in the very few times I come across a tree like that.
Nicely done with that sling not coming off the stump. ;)
Thanks for sharing..... :thumbupold:
 
Why would anyone use a crane for that ? Clear LZ, Ben did a nice job with it.
Doing utility, we often work on high banks oiver highways etc, and more than once we have had to leave stems tied to either the stumps or other sutable anchor point for safety. In fact just a bit ago I was back up on top of a bank I had been on a few times earlier and found one of our old roped up stems, the 'two in one' was still surprisingly in good shape for being many years old.
 
Graiskye said:
Why would anyone use a crane for that ? Clear LZ, Ben did a nice job with it.
Doing utility, we often work on high banks oiver highways etc, and more than once we have had to leave stems tied to either the stumps or other sutable anchor point for safety. In fact just a bit ago I was back up on top of a bank I had been on a few times earlier and found one of our old roped up stems, the 'two in one' was still surprisingly in good shape for being many years old.
Click to expand...

I've always wondered that myself..
maybe its because cranes are free, they fit in your back pocket, and look cool for the neighbors..

one point of consideration.. you might want to consider making that top cut first on those notches. I've seen a lot of great arbs banging out pie cuts with a hammer... using the double cut notch takes about an extra twenty seconds, and is especially useful on bigger trees, where its a little harder for us arbs to match the two cuts perfectly. Loggers have scoffed at the idea, since even a rookie logger should be able to make a perfect face in two cuts, but for an arb that doesn't have or particularly NEED that skill, twenty seconds is a lot faster than banging away with a hammer.

The cutting on this example starts at 4:00:

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  • #17
Im not sure what you mean... I didnt show the footage of cutting the notch from the other side to, just to keep the time down, but the 32 inch bar was way short for a one side face cut. I had to finish cutting the other side too....

The reason I always make the undercut first, is because you can always adjust the fall, but making the topcut first, once you start cutting, you are committed to that direction.
 
mistahbenn said:
Im not sure what you mean... I didnt show the footage of cutting the notch from the other side to, just to keep the time down, but the 32 inch bar was way short for a one side face cut. I had to finish cutting the other side too....

The reason I always make the undercut first, is because you can always adjust the fall, but making the topcut first, once you start cutting, you are committed to that direction.
Click to expand...

No, you can make quick adjustments when you make the top cut first. Im not telling you what cut to make first. Im just clarifying that the direction can be altered.
 
Yeah, Chris ... I was taught to make the top cut first, too. Adjustments in the first couple of inches don't affect the fall. And, once cut, the bar making the bottom cut can be seen through the top cut. But, each to their own ... :)
 
What I do when I make the top cut first and decide to adjust it, is just take a another swipe off of one side. It creates a tiny apex in the center of the face cut which is absolutely inconsequential. If the apex is severe, such as in the case of teaching someone to make falling cuts, and having to make a substantial correction to their work, the apex can be sliced out to clean the cut up.
 
mistahbenn said:
The reason I always make the undercut first, is because you can always adjust the fall, but making the topcut first, once you start cutting, you are committed to that direction.
Click to expand...

As long as their is a top gunning line on the saw, you can look right down it before you start the cut, then after a few seconds of cutting, stop and re-check the gun... ITs fast, easy and extremely accurate. every once in a while you may stand back and see that you mis-judged the lean or something. so you have to go back and re-cut. that's rare, and the time saved by not having so much trouble matching the face cuts and needing to hammer out the pie etc, more than makes up for the very occasional need to re-cut the top cut.

The beauty of the double cut notch is that you're not looking through the kerf when trying to match the faces, you've got a big hole in the tree and can easily see how the two cuts are lining up... Especially helpful when the bar is shorter than the hinge, as you have a much better perspective to swing the saw around and catch the far side of the bottom cut with the bar tip, w/o over-cutting.. That's saves the trouble of having to walk around the tree and cut from both sides..

Not a pissing contest Ben. You know how to put a tree on the ground.. each to their own... actually part of the reason I commented here, is because you are an example of a good faller (for an arb)... so even a good faller using standard cutting technique has to bang out the pie once in a while. the double cut notch makes it easy for the lesser skilled to cut a clean notch and will save time for the highly skilled, as the 20 seconds it takes is far less than the time needed to go get the hammer..
 
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