Blocking down a spar. How do you do it?

[TreeDimensional]

For me the issue is safety, efficiency and what I signed up to do. A lot of my jobs are sold as Low impact, meaning leaving the yard as it was prior to us showing up minus the tree!

 

[Tucker943]

It depends on the spar for me. If the spar is on a lean in the right direction, I make snap cuts and push em free. If the spar is plumb, and has some girth, face cut it and have it pulled with a rope. Im of the mind frame that there is no method that will suit every tree best. A lot of it has to do with how Im feeling in the tree. If Im feelin froggy and makin sweet music, I may handle things one way. If Im hurtin, slow, or spooked, I might handle things another way that requires more work out of the ground men (ie pull lines and such).

 

[Tucker943]

All my jobs are low impact. Every single one. I dont mean that in an arrogant way. Often times the homeowner isnt picky and doesnt mind some turf damage if it helps the price. BUT, I worry that the neighbors wont be aware of that prior agreement and will simple see my logo and trucks then see ruts, divits, and collateral damage after Im gone. So, my rule of thumb is ZERO damage. For jobs where damage absolutely cant be avoided, I explain the damage ahead of time and roll some soil, seed, and pennmulch into my bid for the repairs.

 

[MasterBlaster]

A lot of my jobs are sold as Low impact, meaning leaving the yard as it was prior to us showing up minus the tree!

Of course! A brush bed can take bombed chunks all day and still keep the ground intact. Maybe even... foam!

 

[SouthSoundTree]

I wasn't expecting that anyone would have a single way to do it. Each tree changes with every cut, so its always a dynamic process. I was hoping to stimulate some discussion, and hear about some new ideas.

I think it was Roger B who suggested larger rollers inserted with a crowbar for lifting the block. I'd heard that rollers can be difficult due to the chain ridges that can sometimes form on the spar. I haven't seen any ridges that would seem to stop the rollers, but with smaller kerfs comes smaller rollers if you are not lifting the block.

Personally, I can push some decent sized blocks with a horizontal cut, no rollers, but I'd rather work smarter not harder. I won't likely be getting in any better condition (joints or muscles) as I get older, so I'll prefer finesse when possible.

Anybody used a block driver, or improvised something similar? I could see a nail pulling bar (flat to fit in kerf, with bend to create space when bar is rotated, akin to Block Driver) being useful for sliding in rollers.

 

[murphy4trees]

Second Roger's thoughts on the terms... blcoking down a spar to me means using a block sling, and lowering line to rig down a spar, or "negative blocking", a term which I don't care for. Bombing wood down a spar is a rare occurance for me.. I will often rope stuff rather than leave the divets. I can't remember the last time I cut firewood sized pieces off a spar, and get hopping mad when I see a climber do it, which just occurs to me as a waste of the ground crew's time. I personally can't handle the dust, and will cut them as big as possible to minimize cutting time and breathing all that dust.

If the piece has front lean I'll use a snap cut, If I have to push, sometimes I'll use a snap cut, sometimes a small notch. Bigger stuff, I'll use a pull line on, with a small notch. I sometimes push as I cut with one hand, but generally think its an unnecessary practice, as a well made cut should allow the cutter to set the saw and push with two hands, while not taking much more time than cutting and pushing at the same time. Really bothers me when I see a bypass made on the notch, then the climber pushing with one hand, which would be completely unnecessary if the cut was made properly.

There was a highly experienced climber in Tenessee that managed to cut his arm completely off in that manner. Last crane job, I was one handing a cut at chest level and when the piece rocked back and to the side a little with the pretensioned cable, it grabbed the chain funny and started kicking the saw back towards my chest... Could have been deadly.. that'll never happen again.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Geez, I hope I don't cut my arm off!!!

 

[woodworkingboy]

Sherrill sells a ratcheting giant tapering screw device that can thread into a saw kerf and lift the chunk. Perhaps it pushes the chunk as well? Someone actually bought one, I know because I ordered it for the guy. It looks like something you might find in an S and M nightclub. I don't know if he ever used it, and it wasn't cheap. I sometimes help people out who can't do the English thing with the catalogs. I enjoy seeing what they want to order.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Jay, that's just a mechanical wedge device, not a horizontal pusher. I think that its a high tech, expensive solution to wedges with keeper cords, and a pounder of some sort. Don't know what kind of MA it produces for lift.

 

[squisher]

Yup I found it.. Reg Coates Block Driver...

Aren't you guys referring to this? Which was discussed on page 3 of this thread.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Someone actually bought one, I know because I ordered it for the guy. It looks like something you might find in an S and M nightclub. I don't know if he ever used it

I don't want to know how he used it if it was a nighttime operation.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Aren't you guys referring to this? Which was discussed on page 3 of this thread.

block pusher http://www.treeworker.co.uk/acatalog/Arborist_Tools.html


Rattle wedge http://www.conyfair.com/rattlewedge/index.html

 

[Blinky]

I've used Butch's modified wedge trick with good effect.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

I've used Butch's modified wedge trick with good effect.

Please explain.

Flushing out these tricks of the trade is the real goal of the thread.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Hell, just using a wedge is often good enough.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I've used Butch's modified wedge trick with good effect.

I guess your talking about this?

 

[Burnham]

Heavily modified....

 

[pete mctree]

I will use any and every method I feel appropriate. The only limitation I see is the reduction in the number of method you can use. No two trees are the same & no two situations. Use which fits best IMO

 

[MasterBlaster]

It took me hours to rig it, B.

 

[Burnham]

I'm still trying to figure out how to do the same thing with one of mine.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

I was hoping for more of a slick trick.

 

[squisher]

The trick to it, is to just do it.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I am just a simple man.

 

[squisher]

I dunno Butch, you seem more like the onion type to me.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Yet again, a revised question better asked, "how often do you work down the spar in what different ways?"