Wedging Small Diameter Trees

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There is no best/one answer.

The quarter cut from Ekka is one option.
Hammering the wedges in sideways is another.
Gutting the hinge and hammering the wedge through works as long as you don't go too far.
A rope and suitable source of tension...
 
lumberjack said:
There is no best/one answer.

Gutting the hinge and hammering the wedge through works as long as you don't go too far.
Click to expand...

Willie showed a vid with the plunge cut through the face, flat/ even with the horizontal of the face cut. When the tree goes over with the wedge protuding into the face, it is supported, and not snapped off.
 
Wedging an 8" tree? Push the damn thing over! :lol:

Seriously... I just bore through the center about 2" above my back-cut (BEFORE you start it) in the direction of lay with the bar flat and stuff a wedge in.
 
... sometimes small ones can be had by setting that wedge in the back cut first ... then make the face and drive it over ... I know it"s backwards , but makes total sense to the dyslexic ...
 
Canadianclimber, what would you say is the max size of tree that those felling bars have application for? Obviously lean would be a factor, but generally speaking. Thanks.
 
Those felling bars are great for little trees. That pine, though not a big tree, was not one i'd consider really a small tree as far as wedges are concerned. I'm pictureing under 10" diameter, that what you mean Brendon? I would have thought a tree guy would know the term small is nearly useless:P How much does it cost to remove an averaged sized tree anyway?
 
If you insist on a wedge, make your back cut first, set the wedge, then make your face cut. Just be sure your wedges are thick enough to tip the tree or theres enough room to start a second wedge beside it that you can stack or use Stig's awesome UHMW plates on.
 
SouthSoundTree said:
Willie showed a vid with the plunge cut through the face, flat/ even with the horizontal of the face cut. When the tree goes over with the wedge protuding into the face, it is supported, and not snapped off.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I meant if you go too far your wedge will be trying to spread the kerf that goes through the hinge, losing efficiency. I'd imagine, given the "perfect storm" it could also break the hinge, but usually the tree is over before then.
 
Which by the way I have done .Recently,head in azz I used the 12 inch wedges on 18" trees then couldn't figure what was wrong .Well dumb me didn't take into consideration I had the damned wedges bottomed out ,duh .

I thought those 12 inchers would be the cats meow and probabley would have been on the left coast on a big Douglas fir or something .
 
First off, I refuse to consider the quarter cut an Ekka cut :what:...we've been using that cut out here on the left coast for a long time, way before Ekka ever thought about treework. He deserves no credit whatsoever.

It's my preference for getting a wedge in on small diameter trees. But I use little 5 inchers for wedging small stems like these. If you're stuck with only 8 inch wedges, bore for the needed space...or taper cut an 8 incher down to about 5 inches...it'll give you really quick lift :D.
 
To tell the truth I was kinda dumb about this wedge business .All I used for years was splitting wedges .I figured a 12 incher would be better than a 6 so I bought some .

Turns out they don't have any more lift than a 6 .It just has a long taper to help you out----providing your trying to lift a coastal red wood or something .

No big deal as soon as I get around to it I have an order for Baileys and I'll buy some short ones then .
 
Well yeah .Keep in mind though I'm just a midwest hayseed .Those steel splitting wedges worked fine I just didn't know any different except for two things .They can fly back at you and crack you in the shin about as good as a Lousiville slugger .Plus the fact if you hit one with a chainsaw it pretty much trashes the chain .:)
 
canadianclimber said:
I've used those bars on some pretty big trees. But the ideal max diameter is probably 12"-18". On the smaller side I've done ones with a bit of back lean as well.

It's nice and fast for multiple drops. Excellent leverage. They come in a few sizes. I use a small one. Doubles as a hammer to knock in wedges.

http://www.husqvarna.com/asia/accessories/tools/forest-tools/impact-bar/
Click to expand...

I use a felling bar just like that too.
The 'quarter cut' or as I know it, the 'split level cut' is ideal for using the bar or a wedge for a small tree, it prevents a sit back, allows you time to set the wedge and if using a bar, keeps your saw out of the same cut as all that metal.
I agree on the size range too, 12-18" for using the felling bar.

You have to assess how much back lean you have, the bar allows you to heave over quite a sizable lean, but it depends how low you set the felling cut (discussed ad nauseum elswhere...) and how tall the tree is and how much wind is catching the top!

PS the hook is great for rolling hung ups out as well!
 
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