The Six Point Limbing Method

:lol: Ya but Willard you should tell 'em what your wife does!:lol:

Your a kept man!!!!:D
 
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  • #28
Here's more like I've been doing it.
 

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That is how i was taught. but the saw was only held with your hands. A lot strain on the arms and shoulders.
 
Sometimes if there are a lot of internodial branches, you have to modify the 6 point, to something more like the sweep.

Bear in mind that the 6 point was developed specifically for Norway spruce Picea Abies where the branches are very evenly spaced.
 
I am all for Frankentrees! Nothin' like having 3 species that will grow in my hardiness zone!:|:
 
I have found different species of felled conifers have to be limbed starting at the butt and others starting at the top. We have Norway spruce here in Manitoba that are residential planted and their limbs arc upwards from the trunk so you would start limbing from the butt. Our native white and black spruce's longest limbs arc down on the lower half so you have to start limbing from its top after the tree is felled.

Willard.
 
That is the same with the Omorika spruce picea omorika that is planted in gardens here.
The branches slant sharply downwards, which makes it a total bitch to climb.
If you don't start limbing at the top on those, it is almost impossible.
 
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  • #35
Hmmmm. I've never noticed/seen a tree like that around here. I can't imagine limbing from the top down.
 
That downwards slanting limb configuration is so the snow can slide off instead of the weight of it breaking the branches.
Not usually a problem in Lousiana.
 
I have seen a few huge spruce here like that, limbs will come down 10 or 20 feet
 
Western redcedar will frequently be the same, in the lower portion of the tree. Western hemlock occasionally shows that form as well.
 
I cannot find a close up of the Omorika branches.
They'll start out at a 45-60 degree downwards angle, then start going upwards again.
Very flexible branches. When the tree is full of fresh cones the top 10 feet can weigh several hundred pds.
There are a lot of them in gardens here and I hate climbing them. JCS Picea omorika 12508.jpg
 
Training snedding here in the UK can be amusing to downright scary! Many perceptions is that speed is of the essence whereas its the smoothness and efficeincy of the technique that can lull people into thinking its just balls to the wall flat out. The confusion to many with the technique is the saw positions through the stages with 4 out of the 6 stages being carried out with the top of the bar (pushing chain) especially the transition from pos 1 to pos 2 being a roll effect and not turning the saw to use the bottom (pulling chain).

In response to very large limbs i still try to use the technique but just cut off the limbs a little further out and then remove the branch stubs with the same pattern.
As Jay said genetic branch growth would be handy! This is the only stumbling block many get when they actually "get" the technique is that its taken then so long to learn it they then stick to it rigidly so when brach growth deviates they do not or cannot adapt and get pinched repeatedly.

Butch the method you showed we tend to use for species like Larch where branch growth is much further spaced and of a smaller dimension.

Felling precision is vital to bench the tree's to maintain a good workable height but the videos shown always have great sites to work on!
 
Is there anyone here who can say that they never get pinched anymore? On a full day's felling and limbing, I average about twice, I guess. Get in a hurry.....or bucks flat on the ground. I suppose perfect is possible.
 
Ha! You should have been there the day I had a 660 w 36" bar and a 038 Mag w a 32" bar stuck in a willow over a retaining wall! Stuck was an undestatement. The methods described here are cool for sure. I was lookin' at some spruce I have to kill, the 6 point thing will not be incorperated there. Too tight a broughs. I am thinkin' this technique is best for forest tree not yard trees!
 
I used to run a Stihl 064 with a 18" b/c, the saw was so quick and powerful that pinching even in hardwood limbs didn't happen that often......but I burnt a few bar noses out while doing it though.
As we talk about the 6 point limbing technique which was designed for 8 hr a day logging in the forest. That's what the operator has to do to efficently get good at it.
But for the residential tree removal guy he definately can incorporate parts of it into his scheme. The technique gives you some safe energy saving options.

Willard.
 
That is what I get from it Willard, a method to keep in mind where the situation allows it. Doing it all the time would certainly make you better at it, like anything else just about.
 
I down loaded the vid but haven't the player to play it. It's a mov file so it must be the apple player I need. All my old computers had the player now I have to down load it too. Just listening to the comments posted here the vid appears to be well worth a peek at.
 
Good find Butch.. We should all take the time to get that one down, even if we only use it very occasionally.. Looks cool for sure.. I AM going to show it to a friend that wants to become a wild land fire fighter/ smoke jumper. He has a great attitude and a lot of athleticism. Says its a very competitive field to get a job in. He's trying to get a gig as a volunteer fire fighter to get some training right now, as he finishes his degree in emergency anagement from Pitt online, and works 30-40 hours for a tree service.
 
Thanks for the link, Brian. I downloaded the player and watched the vid. Some very good points are made in it. The fellow certainly did a good job describing the how to and benefits of the method. As a matter of course I have used similar bits of the method for many years and also by many others I know in the trade. Though neither of us use it as a strict method but do when the situation permits.

As Burnam pointed out much of our limbing in the northwest is done while on top of the tree, but even so the benefits that Erickson pointed out of resting the saw against ones thigh to relieve the burden of working the saw is used quite a lot even while limbing the tree from on top.

It's good to see some of the most simple techniques we use put in a format that describes it so well, and that the layman can learn from.
 
I guess you would have to consider the method a fairly advanced technique, saw wielding like that. You wouldn't find it in the manual that comes with a saw.
 
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  • #50
I just love the idea of letting the log hold the saw, not moi!

I've instinctivly been doing that, but this method trumps any of my attempts.

Sweet. :drink:
 
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