The Official Work Pictures Thread

It's a nice axe. I got one a year or two ago. Handle's very comfortable, but I'd prefer it was hickory rather than ash. I've already boogered it up taking on bigger wood than it could sensibly handle.
 
It's a nice axe. I got one a year or two ago. Handle's very comfortable, but I'd prefer it was hickory rather than ash. I've already boogered it up taking on bigger wood than it could sensibly handle.
I did the same, got it stuck, handle grain orientation was wrong, broke it. Lee Valley replaced it. Old one I’m gonna put a 36” handle on.
 
This gem for the end of the week.
 

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I reckon that the curved leader (hard leaner) that I see in the background could at least use a triple hinge, Maybe a dutchman on the far side/ tapered hinge or a chunk of wood in the facecut, and more likely a 90 degree retainer line (guy line).
 
I reckon that the curved leader (hard leaner) that I see in the background could at least use a triple hinge, Maybe a dutchman on the far side/ tapered hinge or a chunk of wood in the facecut, and more likely a 90 degree retainer line (guy line).
Thanks!

I’m going to keep playing with the less leaning ones and see how they go. Will probably have a guy line just in case. Liking this job. Well not really a job, just helping a friend for fun. No pressure, some challenge but no real consequesnces. Already limbed 😁 there are some back closer to the house that are kinda big too.
 
I reckon that the curved leader (hard leaner) that I see in the background could at least use a triple hinge, Maybe a dutchman on the far side/ tapered hinge or a chunk of wood in the facecut, and more likely a 90 degree retainer line (guy line).
I'm thinking wide open tall block face (whole face a sizzy) (the one I felled wasn't as open as I'd like). High back cut. Face and back cuts 90 degrees to the trunk vs. horizontal, maybe even higher opposite the lean. Triple hinge or shark gill or whatever (this might make it too hard to wedge over). Angled hinge, more hold on the top side opposite the lean...maybe triple just up there. Then a high back cut. I think a dutchman or chunk in the face will just break the hinge too soon. Gotta get it started in the direction it needs to go. The question is if it will go far enough before the brittle wood breaks because then gravity takes it. As long as it's past the fence.... :-D I have forced salt cedars 90 to the lean with wedges, one big tree was successful and a couple smaller half successful. They had crown weight that this doesn't though. The easy way would be pull 180 to lean but where's the fun in that?
 
When felling while fighting a sidelean, wedging can be too slow. A pull line with a fast uptake, or floating a log mid-pull-line, keeping tension on the line as it falls may be best. Possibly bore and release, so it starts moving all at one.

Are you familiar with floating a log in the middle of the pull rope?

Two half-hitches, spread apart along the log (possibly near the ends), will float it nicely.


A full-gap face can still have a whizzy added, and a triple hinge.
 
Are you end-grain sealing with Anchorseal/ similar or paint, asap?

Get it in the shade?
Valuable (and more stable) wood like mesquite I paint the ends. I haven’t done enough green Euc to try yet. Most say it’s impossible to not check. Just gotta avoid the center/checks. I will try some of this lot…paint, cover, store in shipping container. Sealed one if I can, maybe with water in it to slow the drying? The thing with the desert heat is it dries stuff fast so that it cracks but if you keep it moist it molds. That one had checks showing in the ends of the logs from the drive home.
 
Sometimes internal stress, not drying shrinkage is the cause of wood splitting. Bigleaf maple splits as you cut it, sometimes.

I'd end-grain seal it ASAP. Paint stores have mistints for a lot less. Recycled material stores sometimes have paint for minimal prices. The color doesn't matter. Habitat for Humanity ReStore is local to me. Last I checked, $12-15 per gallon.

Aim to cut log so the pith is all in one board. Measure up from the pith at each end when you set your initial planar surface (ladder, etc). Stationary saws will sometimes have a way to lift one end (toe-board, IIRC).

Wash the sawdust off. Cut the surface area down. There is some solution, part Borax (sodium borate) and part something that sounds like sodium borate that you can mix and put in a garden sprayer. I need to find out again. This guy told me about it...milled a bit for me, years ago...https://www.woodweb.com/galleries/sawmill/posts/578.html


It will check, but check less, if sealed.

Controlling the temperature and humidity is part of the deal.
 
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