SRT

DMc

TreeHouser
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With everybody experimenting with the rope wrench/SRT, I thought I would continue updates on what I have found with my preferred tool for SRT, The Unicender. 8)

With all of its positive and unique properties, the Uni is still lacking in some areas. Tailing the line is one of them. I installed a shoulder bolt to close off the opening of the L, but still allow mid-line attachment. (With a 10 mm opening) This has proved to be a great improvement. Time will tell if it is strong enough to withstand field use.

The other thing I regularly do with the Uni is switching from a walker to a RADS when necessary and I like to be able to do this quickly. This is how I accomplish it.

The hand ascender can be clipped on with one hand and already has the pulley attached. The wire gate Revolver just hangs on the ring on my bridge. The switch back and forth is effortless.

Dave
 

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can you take a picture that shows how the pulley is attached to the hand ascender?
 
Really like the shoulder bolt idea, Dave. I've been wondering how to accomplish something like that. Could you give some details on the size, etc.? Maybe a couple of closer shots? Thanks.
 
I really like the AllGear Rocket for my SRT rig with the rope wrench, I would imagine it would work well with a UNI.

i have not used my DdRT gear in almost 2 months, and I don't miss it ;) planning your climb, and efficiency make all the difference at the end of the day, and wearing my treemotion, well that helps too ;)
 
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  • #8
Darin and Burnham, I will get some better pictures soon.

Jed, in the tree world, those using SRT are still in the minority, so don't feel bad. The pictures show a Unicender, which is normally used in a straight up/down the rope manner reconfigured to be used in a 3:1 commonly referred to as (R)apid (A)scent (D)escent (S)ystem. In truth, I hardly ever use this. But it is good when you need the extra pull power to get out of a tight spot.

Reddog, the best rope is going to be hard to pull out, just like the best of anything else we use. So much of it is what works for the individual. I have used Velocity, 11 mm, and though it worked well, I prefer slightly heavier lines like Tachyon and my current line, which is AllGear Rocketline (11.5 to 11.7 mm).

Dave
 
The Uni has worked pretty well on my Poison Ivy, which is also 11.7mm. Bstewert had trouble with it being too touchy on whatever he was using, but I think it was 11mm. Bob?
 
I believe that some of these new SRT concepts hold good promise for work climb situations. Though at the time I believe more time and work is needed in perfecting them.

Sure to be more than one method that would be applicable.

New ways!
 
There ya go! I am sooo itching to own one :)

Used SRT but with the F8 Revolver system.... up and down all done...
I like how you adapted the Uni BTW... good idea.
 
Dave, the shoulder bolt looks like a very good improvement. Does it keep your rope in all the time, unless you want to take it out? I tried the Uni with Tachyon, PI, Fly, KM111 9.5mm, HTP 7/16 and a couple of others. It was scary sensitive for me. I felt it needed another bar or something to provide more friction. But I do want to experiment with it more.

I would like to see more adjustability in a device that would work on a greater range of rope sizes. Me and everybody else, right? At least with the wrench you can try a different cord, tie a different hitch or add a wrap.
 
Not yet and I would not use the wooden one. I would want the set up so it can be installed mid line. If I did not like it.. I would just sell it on here :)
So the money is not an issue, just prioritized :D
 
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  • #17
Sorry for being slow to get back to everyone, just been swamped here. First off, for those of you who are mistaking me for a smart guy, this was actually Nick A's and Tom D's idea for the shoulder bolt. I actually was skeptical that there was enough material on the short L of the Uni to be strong enough. I'm still not sure, but it looks nice and is working well.

The first picture is a close up of the bolt mounted on the Uni. You can see the small gap for inserting the rope. It is about 10 mm. It does, indeed, keep the rope in all the time unless you want to take it out.

The second photo is a close up of the bolt. It is a 1 1/2" X 1/4" shoulder bolt. I'm not positive what the thread was, I think it was 4 20(?) and I just drilled and tapped the aluminum, set it in place and cut the head off. You can see an indent right in front of the head. That is where I hit it with the cutoff wheel.

Third picture is a close up of the Petzl hand ascender with a pulley sheave mounted. This is super convenient, but as you might guess, requires some dexterity to keep the rope from falling off accidentally. I plan on redoing it using the sides of the FIX type pulley that will help trap the rope in during use but still allow for a quick flip out for stowing the ascender.

I do wish there was a way I could get together with some of you who have had trouble with the Uni and SRT in general. I use SRT on everything. I don't care if I am just going up a 15' tree. It is that simple. The Uni, itself, has a pretty steep learning curve but once achieved, it is an amazing, stand alone SRT tool. It has been proven safe through drop tests by Morgan. It doesn't need the doodads, except for the shoulder bolt, that I sometimes throw in. They're just fine tuning items for my style and the things I need to accomplish.

Dave
 

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  • #21
Dave, in your 2nd pic you have a Croll, but you are not using that anywhere in the system, right?

That is correct. The Croll is for use in the rope-walker system not the RADS.

Dave
 
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  • #22
Is that lip enough to keep the rope on? Cool idea.

For me it is, but I let a friend try it and for him it was not. Like I said, a better setup might be to use a fixed side plate pulley like the Fix, bolted upside down, as the longer legs will be better at trapping the rope. There are many ways to attach pulleys in a climbing system for mechanical advantage, but this type of setup is the only one I have tried that can be put on or taken off with one hand. I really want to try this with one of the new small Kong hand ascenders.

Dave
 
Single jack and Tom D have found that using an ascender that you dont have to take of the line at all like the shunt or Gibbs type ascender works well. that way when you descned the ascender follows you down the rope. That seems like a good atribute for an upper rads ascender
 
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  • #24
... using an ascender that you dont have to take of the line at all like the shunt or Gibbs type ascender works well. ...

Boy, not for me. It sure sounds like a good idea, but in use it is a lot more fiddly. But like I said, I don't use RADS very often and never for ascending as I find it far too slow. The times I do need mechanical advantage, being able to attach it with one hand and then remove it just as quickly is what I like.

Dave
 
That is correct. The Croll is for use in the rope-walker system not the RADS.

Dave

I didn't mean for RADS, I meant with the UNI somehow. The Croll just happens to live on your harness, it looks like. Could you do a long ascent on the Croll, pushing the Uni up above it?
 
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