Acceptable basal tie for srt

Treeaddict

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Anything wrong with this? Climb line wasn’t long enough for 2 wraps. The dead eye hasn’t seen a rigging load yet. Made 10 wraps total.
 

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I guess the safety nazis could find lots wrong with it, but I'd climb on it no problema.
 
don't you want the eye of that sling independent? Not sure a timber hitch qualifies for life support, but plenty strong

If I was working with folks on the ground with sharp stuff i would prefer a TIP up high.
 
Would want noose to seat closed by pull on eye reeved thru the 'loose splice' of Timber as a choke rather than basket type pull in sling terminology..
In real use expect workable.
Would prefer more structure of Half Hitch prefix this lower seam.
Less needed because of turn over topside redirect but still more architecturally sounder. Receding taper a variable.
 
As others have said. Have the eye through the bight of the timber hitch and connect the bins into that (if you must use it).

As it is, the the down leg of the climb line is loaded it will pull the eye splice apart, potentially loosening it at the throat.
 
I can climb on that too, but I'd prefer the sling chocked, the sling's eye only seeing the climb line, like a block as Lxskllr says. The timber hitch part is turning around the standing part at the splice (or better, just after).
A basket sling like you made doesn't tighten under load and can slide up given the chance ( tapered trunk, smooth or loose bark, ivy...). Plus, side loading a spliced eye isn't allowed, even in this case it wouldn't be a problem.
Choke the sling, it tends to tighten and grip the trunk more and more as you pull on it.
 
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  • #12
Thank you all for weighing in. Going to have to look up timber hitch’s. I thought it was tied correctly but, unfortunately, knots are my Achilles heel 😩. I’ll try to imitate tutorials with little success and lots of frustration.
 
I don't know that what you did was "wrong". I think it's still a timber hitch, but could have been more optimally tied, eg aka guilding the lilly.
 
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It was tied correctly, it just is a horrible knot for life support, or honestly even rigging. It works on trees, but there are far better options, a bowline with a lock hitch is better with less rope. It is completely abhorred in the construction world, because it will kill someone if done on the wrong rigging setup, even tho half hitching is completely fine. It was also pointed out that whenever you are pulling an eye in more than one direction it is better to use a link designed for such loading, such as a shackle, rigging ring, master link, sling grommet, certain knots, etc. A spliced eye or really any eye on a strap, especially nylon since it's stiched but even stamped wire commercial wire chokers will come apart if the eye is loaded like that. If slack is twisted out of your timber hitch during climbing (all but guaranteed), your spliced eye could be spread apart, likely killing you.


Edit: looked at it again and i see that it isn't even choked.
 
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The timber hitch is directional. You had it tied correctly for setting a lowering block with the weight pulling down. But as an SRT anchor it's pulling up so you have to reverse your wraps.
 
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  • #16
So spliced eyes are essentially to be loaded like biners it seems- one direction and not side loaded. Regarding directionality of the TH, one would start tucking over to under or under to over depending on where it’s to be loaded?
 
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  • #17
Also, reading the responses and the mention of a high TIP got me thinking……. what’s the potential for climb line abrasion or severing as it runs over a natural thick bark crotch? In MRT there’s usually a friction saver and if not, the line in contact with the bark is always moving. In the SRT setup with basal anchor, the same section of rope is in contact with the tree and there’s no friction saver. I’d imagine there is expansion and contraction taking place whenever there’s movement on the line? Is there a danger here? A high TIP would alleviate that I suppose?
 
When the splice is pulling length ways it gets the throat will get narrower. This holds the internals of the splice tighter, like a Chinese finger trap.
 
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I don't think wear will be an issue unless you have the branch crossing at exactly the same place in the rope every time. Any single tie in shouldn't cause more damage than would be expected for 'normal wear/tear'. Something like a sharp rock ledge would be more concern.
 
With that gear , I'd tie a running bowline with a long tail On the tenex with a few half hitches backing it up. double sheet bend to the tenex eye and use the carabiner in the climb line eye , clipping it on the UP part of the climb line.
 
KISS.
Clip/ tie the rope to itself. Put an Butterfly knot above.

If it's not releasable under load, and needs to be cut free, the butterfly is a solid attachment point.


When you choose your rope as the anchor, it's also easy to adjust the working length.
 
Good stuff guys! Lots of awesome information and tactics as usual.
Well have you considered how many combined years of experience you have to drew upon here? And unlike Facebook, the posts are here forever and you can carry on conversations on topics for months or years instead of just a day or two.
 
I did cut through thin bark with srt and basal anchor. It doesn't need much high to get a back and forth movement of the rope at the crotch, even with an access rope with low elasticity.
 
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