Notchless Felling?

Here's an awesome piece of notchless felling at work -

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/aFl-pLH5QlI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Feller bunchers have taken a lot of good jobs out of the woods around here. So the handfaller only gets to work the odd oversized and the crappiest steep ground.

Big business makes more and the guys on the ground get the shaft. Here in BC they are used a lot in the interior. A contractor has to mortgage himself for ever more expensive equipment so that they can eliminate jobs and up production. The mills get fed more loads at cheaper rates and less families earn a living off of our supposedly public owned forests. Big business wins and the common folk get screwed. Nothing new about that.
 
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I'd rather see trees fell like this, a little one we did this morning. I was gonna cut it notch less but then remembered that I wanted it to actually go where it was supposed to.


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I hear you, Squish. The numbers in figuring bids for logging contracts are so tight here right now that I wonder how a logger and his crew can make ends meet. It's worrisome to think about.

Most fallers I know are driving 10 year old rigs today. That would have been unheard of here 10-15 years ago. It's tight! For the working man.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #85
I did a massive 12" at the stump Japanese Maple yesterday and you can
plainly see in small diameter trees that the root flare is quite capable of
pulling it to the lay. It is quite tenacious.
The Large Oak I did yr or two ago was the same.
Large Sugar I did nearly took out the fence, with a shorter bar and bit of a mismatch
cut the overlap took it a near 10' off the the lay and was only fortunate it enough to have take the top off
to clear the deck other wise I would have been in the fencing biz again.

You guys have a good idea of what I am about and I am always of the thought if there is something to gain with out personal injury I am interested in giving it go.
No blood, No foul!
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #88
Wrong tree in the wrong place in front of Historic home1890 in old Galt.
I drove away from it twice and made sure the HO was positive it had to go.
Once you get driving around and see all the J maples in the neighbourhood and spending
the whole yr at a 100 unit condo with almost every fy tree a J maple it wasn't a difficult
slaughter and actually felt a like I did the neighbourhood a service.
no tears shed
 
RopeArmour said:
I did a massive 12" at the stump Japanese Maple yesterday and you can
plainly see in small diameter trees that the root flare is quite capable of
pulling it to the lay. It is quite tenacious.
The Large Oak I did yr or two ago was the same.
Large Sugar I did nearly took out the fence, with a shorter bar and bit of a mismatch
cut the overlap took it a near 10' off the the lay and was only fortunate it enough to have take the top off
to clear the deck other wise I would have been in the fencing biz again.

You guys have a good idea of what I am about and I am always of the thought if there is something to gain with out personal injury I am interested in giving it go.
No blood, No foul!
Click to expand...

I'm really not following your logic here? Are you saying you cut a face that had mismatched cuts, didn't even or clean it up so it missed the lay and you think it would've gone better with no face at all? Not to sound to much like an ass but if you can't identify problems in your notch before you start your back cut you need to go right back to the basics. Not start experimenting with relying on root flare to work as a hinge. The solution to not being able to make a correct notch is not to just not make one.
 
squisher said:
Are you saying you cut a face that had mismatched cuts,
Click to expand...

No he's saying there was no face, just a straight back cut into the trunk flare.. but the cuts were from either side as the bar was short and there w as a bit of a bypass, causing the holding wood of the grain in the bypass differential to turn the tree away from its natural lean..

Communicating this stuff through a keyboard has always been challenging... stuff we know and do without thinking about, is hard to put into words without ambiguousnessosity...
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #94
murphy4trees said:
No he's saying there was no face, just a straight back cut into the trunk flare.. but the cuts were from either side as the bar was short and there w as a bit of a bypass, causing the holding wood of the grain in the bypass differential to turn the tree away from its natural lean..

Communicating this stuff through a keyboard has always been challenging... stuff we know and do without thinking about, is hard to put into words without ambiguousnessosity...
Click to expand...

Yeah cept I was trying to cut out a dish a wood for less grinding
Or to speed the rot
Thanks Dan.
 
These threads on unconventional methods never seem to change anyone's mind about them, even if you explain better. :lol:
 
woodworkingboy said:
These threads on unconventional methods never seem to change anyone's mind about them, even if you explain better. :lol:
Click to expand...

It takes time, and there is a lot of closed minded adherence to orthodoxies, without really even understanding the "why". That's the nice thing about video.. tree men tend to want to see something in action before they try it.. I know I do.. With video, you can see a new cut or piece of equipment working... And these "discussions" get people thinking if nothing else though people have changed.. the step cut, plunged vertical snap cut, double cut hinge.. they are being adopted and used.. even the bore cut and back release.. took time...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Structure_of_Scientific_Revolutions
there's a good piece on paradigm shift in science..
 
Murph, its not what a man says, but how he says it. Your MO is to present unconventional methods of removing tree. In itself, that's a great idea. The methods are questionable to say the least, but your desire to create more options is, in itself, commendable. Here at the treehouse, most members disagree with you, but because of the nature of this forum, throwing stones at you and degrading you is forbidden if your approach is reasonable. When you come it arrogant and assholish, Butch sits back and lets the dogs bite you a little bit.

I think, and I think a search of your post history will reveal that your presentation either draws a crowd or repels a crowd. Instead of coming in and telling people "im going to blow your minds", try approaching it with "Hey check this out and lets break this down and analyze it". I think your methods are shit. But that's ok. Im not your customer or your climber. My opinion means nothing when you warm up your trucks in the morning. I have noticed a few entry level guys have taken a shine to your teachings and are all eyes and ears to learn what you are offering. You can expand that group and keep doing what you intend to do if you would work on your social problems. I challenge you to work on your social behaviors and see what that does for your audience.
 
RopeArmour said:
Yeah cept I was trying to cut out a dish a wood for less grinding
Or to speed the rot
Thanks Dan.
Click to expand...

So the point of this notchless felling is to tip a tree or a spar to its natural lean with one cut. And yourself and the other proponents of this method believe it to be as accurate as a properly gunned face? Or just that it's such an incredible time and work saver that it should be used in circumstances where dead on accuracy isn't needed?

I've yet to see some vid or pics of it being used to fell a decent sized spar or tree in a fashion that demonstrates its accuracy or efficiency in cutting a ultra low stump.

As residential arbs I would recommend people use every spar or tree they can to practice the basics of making a clean face using the conventional, humboldt, and open styles. Master these three notches and cutting up a proper hinge/backcut with all the cuts being clean and in-line. That is what is going to gain efficiency and save time when one develops the skill and confidence to start knocking some sticks down instead of climbing and over rigging everything.

Someone else already said it in here I think. If you're seeing real time and energy savings by just making one low cut. Your saws aren't actually sharp.

Show me some pics of a decent sized tree fell ultra low to the ground with this one cut method.
 
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