How'd it go today?

Where's the tiewire Jim? If I can't fix it with wood, wire, or tape, I just stare at it with a blank look on my face :^D
 
With the weird vertical feed rollers? Any issues with it feeding little skinny stuff?
Old man at a past employer clamped 5 or 6 of the roller coil springs together and welded them together. Fed way better after that.
 
Yeah, i could see where better springs would help. Brush, like live oak and shrubs, aint all that great through it. But it loves wood. Whatever makes the tree smaller. If you feed it some decent wood to help the brush through and slow the feed some, it helps.
Brutus is the chippers name. Price was right and Its easy to work on.
That Perkins engine has been used in a lot of equipment, so parts can be had.
CA dont like it though. I try to keep to my county that dont GAF as far as the new emission standards go. Probably sell it with the farm or out of state should the time come.
 
CurSedVoyce said:
Kind of the technique i am using currently Kyle. Just let the metal bubble back and glod on the weak side, favor the good stuff and add till i can stitch the gap.
Click to expand...

Im trying to say if the 6011 is too hot, move way faster. Literally spatter it to hell, in the joint only, and then you can weld over it. I wish i could make/ find a video of someone doing it right. I'll keep looking, otherwise you might get a simulation from my hospital bed lol
 
Honestly it's where it's at for large gaps and thin stuff. The stuff on YouTube is so useless mainly, lots of clueless people making videos. It's damn near depressing, and the ones that know better don't show this kind of stuff.
 
At 11:00 he goes at it with a 6011, and you can see him whip it. Im talking going 3 times that fast, no whip, basically hardly even spattering, just throwing berries in the gap. Then you whip over it like that. At 12:00 he's trying to fill a hole, and he gets it eventually, but moving even faster it'll build up quicker. Once again this is on very thin stuff, or stuff that you can fully penetrate with no problems. Turn it down to where it barely runs, but hot enough to actually weld. Also remember that the metal always follows the heat, so if you run up on each end when filling the hole, past the hole a bit up onto the thicker weld, it'll build it up because the metal will stick better. Basically on thin stuff when you are trying to fill a gap, go as fast as you can damn near can. You will think you aren't getting it, but you actually are.
 
Just work on it, it takes time to master like anything worthwhile, but when you do it really opens up what you can accomplish with a cellulose rod. There's a reason most pipe welders, who use 6010 a bunch, damn near always reach for them over other rods. You can do thick, thin, all position, rusty oily dirty shit, and even cut and pierce with them. If they know how to downhill you damn near have to demand they use 7018 if it's required. Add a bit of experience with jetrod and it gets even worse lol.
 
Stephen, another trick i always forget about because i never get to use it anymore is a copper plate. It likely won't help you here either because you're dealing with something that you can't reach the other side, but weld metal won't stick to copper, especially if you don't weld directly into it but let the metal spill out onto it. At cat we used quarter inch thick copper plate, and even went so far as cutting the handle off a chipping hammer and brazing them on for nice handles. A part of the welding procedure was to actually take one of these that had been shaped to fit the 1.5 inch groove and actually build up little dams at the ends so the molten metal that you would pour in there wouldn't just run out. 3/32 dualshield with 1000 amp machines, your outside would be 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. It wasn't a cold job :lol:

Obviously finding scrap copper that thick is easier said than done, but i don't see why brass wouldn't work, the melting points are very similar. Basically an old ball valve or similar. Also keep an eye out for large scraped electrical components. Weld cold, and let the metal flow onto it rather than welding directly. Break it free often so you don't get yourself stuck. Also remember that steel hates copper impurities, so don't use on super critical stuff that isn't pretty much over welded. You can literally fill gaps that shouldn't be filled with relative ease using this.
 
Tree09 said:
The old timer teaching me came unglued, came over, took the gun from me, cranked it wide open......I was schooled right and proper.
Click to expand...

Ha, you painted a picture!

I believe you have said CAT had a lot of average ability, average-paid welders working there but obviously there were some folks with deep experience and ability.
 
Oh absolutely, at least in what they did there, which was very heavy mig welding. None of them could go layout a pipe fab or weld xray pipe, that's a different skill set. But some were very very skilled at what could be done in that environment. I eventually was unofficially moved to salvage welding, where you fix robotic, hand, and machining errors. And there i learned even more skills, many of which i use to this day such as extracting stuck taps, filling the holes back up, then drilling and tapping to the precise location needed, usually right in the exact same spot:lol: patience is definitely a virtue doing that.
 
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