Hitch Hiker Reviews

[chris_girard]

They tried to make me stop using it at Big Green (we are required to only use company provided PPE and its not yet an approved device) and I told em to go f themselves and hire a new trimmer or just look the other way.

I don't blame you bonner, I would have done the same thing too for sure.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I love being able to switch from DRT to SRT and so forth... Working up a tree on spikes you can go back and forth SRT/DRT/Lanyard, or set a primary SRT tie in, but when its time to flop the stem you can either leave your climbing line up top and come down SRT using your line to flop it OR grab a stub and come down DRT getting your climbing system out of the way, whichever your preference.

Before it seemed like you either had DRT and its +/-'s or SRT and its +/-'s now you can use the HH to utilize the best of both without sacrificing. They tried to make me stop using it at Big Green (we are required to only use company provided PPE and its not yet an approved device) and I told em to go f themselves and hire a new trimmer or just look the other way.

This is why I should own one... I do switch back and forth depending on the tree and the game plan. The ability to do so more easily and simply makes perfect sense. Tis on my list...

 

[brendonv]

What's the overall length of the HH tied onto the rope? from tip to bottom of carabiner?

I'm thinking about trying one, just cause

 

[rumination]

Brendon, just measured mine for you. About 10.5" from the bottom of the biner to the top of the hitch, when pulled tight. In actual usage I don't notice any difference in the distance of the hitch from the previous hitchclimber setup that I was using. The HH adds a bit of length, but it's made up for by the fact that the hitch itself is more compact.

 

[brendonv]

Thanks Leon.

I'm considering giving it a try. I'm used to a small compact hitch, no waste of motion when taking up slack. The fact that I can use it double rope too makes me want to give it a try. Sounds like it's not finicky, like my hitch. Sometimes it's tough to advance, sometimes perfect. Just not super constant. Seems like the HH is the same all the time.

 

[bonner1040]

There isnt any noticeable sitback with the HH in DRT, it isnt a slick as a Hitchclimber pulley and a loose VT by any means. If you tune the hitch right which is easy with the dogbone you can get that perfect balance.

 

[rumination]

Brendon, the hitch on the HH still needs to be dialed in to find that sweet spot, but it is much easier to do than with a traditional VT/pulley system. And once you've got it, it seems to stay set.

And I'll echo what Nick said. The HH has the least amount of sitback (almost imperceptible) of any hitch based system I've used.

Make sure to buy it straight from Paul's webiste.

 

[PCTREE]

Brendon, if you are worried about waste of motion when taking in slack remember when using it in SRT which I do on all my wrecks there is half the slack to take up and also when you get it dialed in it will come up the rope with you so no slack tending at all as long as you have weight on the rope. It sure is hard changing our ways but I think its worth it, I still havent had time to set up a simple rope walking setup but I still climb old skool and climb the tree when Im not Wraptoring..

 

[Oldmilltreecare]

When we topped that Linden alley last week, we used the HH, but in DRT mode.
It has the sweetest control of all the DRT devices I've used.

Please could you put a photo up of the set up in DRT mode. Here or on The HH thread on Arbtalk. Thanks.

 

[stig]

Same as you would use any other friction knot.

On those trees that had a branch sticking out, we'd simply naked crotch it, otherwise we'd use an adjustable friction saver.

But I just happened to have the Hh set up on my shortest climb line, so being a lazy bugger, I used that instead of the VT that I usually run, when on DRT.

Apart from being a bit less slick than a VRT on a Hitchclimber because you have an extra carabiner and no hole to stick it in, it worked REAL well.

 

[Oldmilltreecare]

Stig, I mean where do you attach the standing side of your rope? Also, do you run it through anything to keep it snugged up to the HH?

 

[stig]

Ah, now I get it.
Simply attach it by carabiner to the bridge of my saddle next to the HH, or a D-ring if I'm using my climbline as lanyard.

 

[NHlocal]

Here's something I put together today, just throwing it out there from an SRT noob. I hope I don't make the HH look too bad.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gGar8HZD98

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Randy,

Looked really good. I've been intending to upload the pics of my set-up, but the uploader hasn't been working for me.

You have all the components of my set-up except for a cheap piece of elastic cord.

As you can see, with non-elastic cordage, you have to syncronize the hand and foot, and slack can develop easily, allowing the foot loop to come off, at times.

A risk you face is that you have a toothed ascender above your hitch. If you were to have a rope-redirection crotch break, and get caught with another lower crotch, you could have all your weight on the toothed ascender and footloop, potentially tearing off the sheath from the rope.


Simply shorten your foot-to-ascender connection so that it rides below the HH, and attach an elastic cord above it which goes to your hand (tie a big loop ~3-4', then tie overhand knots every 6-8" to give your options. Leave a gap at the end that is large enough to go over your head in case you want to use if for something else. If you get a second piece of elastic and do similarly, although shorter, you can use it over your head to advance the HH with the snugness of slight, constant tension.).

I take my flipline with the adjuster on my left hip "D" behind my back, over my right collarbone (next to my neck on the right side) and down to my HH.



PS. Put a rated ring on your rope bridge in place of the second 'biner.
PPS. A 20 oz throw bag replaces the sledgehammer. When you are up in the tree and need to advance your rope, the 20 oz. bag will help to get the end of your rope up to the next redirection crotch (while your are fliplined into a suitable point). When you want to pull your HH through the crotch, the HH may want to slide when the HH gets butted up against the crotch. To avoid this, clove hitch the biner to the rope (you will need to slide the HH along the rope first in order to have it reach you after pulling it through the crotch and back toward yourself).

 

[bonner1040]

Nice video Randy! Try using your flipline to tend the HH over the shoulder like Sean mentioned. AND dont ever climb without a lanyard/flipline. You never know what will happen!

The only thing I dont love about Jamies system is that only the foot ascender pulls the slack through the HH. What Sean described above should tend the HH on each step.

 

[DMc]

...A risk you face is that you have a toothed ascender above your hitch... Simply shorten your foot-to-ascender connection so that it rides below the HH, ...

This is a risk with toothed ascenders. It is reduced by using a base tie because the amount of rope in the system and also by using semi-static climbing line, again because it can absorb/reduce a shock load.
If you place an ascender under the HH it should have an ample enough amount of separation that the HH can engage. I have seen setups that use the ascender to push up the HH. This is terrible idea as it prevents the HH from from being able to engage. I prefer having the ascender above.

Randy, nice video. A couple of things I would like to point out for safety. Definitely lose the carabiner on your bridge and replace it with a ring. Loose carabiners, linked like that, can be made to fail far too easily. This is not the way you want your primary connection.
On your choice of TIP, it was hard for me to tell with everything being back-lit, camera angles and all, but there were a couple of times I saw a fair amount of limb movement. It looked like the TIP had a horizontal aspect from the main trunk. At the very least a crook. I would not purposely climb with an isolated TIP of that nature. Catching another limb back in the canopy to open up the rope angle will dramatically reduce the load on the TIP at the same time giving you some redundancy. Routing SRT lines for reduced load and maximum benefit is quite different than how we would have approached a doubled rope climb.
The advancing tether you used for the HH was not doing much good; much too loose. Snug it up so there is some tension on your shoulder straps and it will not only advance the HH more smoothly but will help create a balance/brace point for your shoulders and reduce the load required by your arms to keep you upright.

David

 

[canadiantreeman]

I'm glad to have access to all you SRT junkies, because I've got me a hitch hiker now! I've only done two climbs with it, and one I ended up switching back to Ddrt with it as it was a spruce cable install and I just ALT'd up that mofo. I did a horsechestnut removal with a choked TIP, but haven't really had an opportunity to test out the true SRT work and ascent advantages.

As a Ddrt device, I find it far more valuable than the hitchclimber as a tender set up, and notice that a great deal of the heat is taken by the device and biner rather than the hitch.

One thing I noticed that seems to be an advantage in Ddrt is the ability to re-crotch with a retrievable false crotch without having to pull all ones rope up and over the tip. Unless I am missing something. The split tail seems to be a thing that gives an advantage that doesn't seem as easily bought with SRT.

 

[NHlocal]

Sean, Nick, and David,
thanks for all the great feedback, information, suggestions, and critique. This is the stuff I need to really help me improve. We just got another 10"+ of snow today so I won't be able to climb for a while, just came in from plowing out my Church. Thanks again guys for all your help. Looking forward to trying out those changes.....

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Remember to bounce test your rope with remotely set TIPs/ Redi(rection) points before committing.

 

[NHlocal]

Remember to bounce test your rope with remotely set TIPs/ Redi(rection) points before committing.

Ayuh,
thanks for the reminder, that's an SOP thing for me.
Definitely would very much like to see a pic of your setup, I do understand your explanation of the setup but for me to really "get it" seeing a picture would be a huge help(I'm a little slow ). Oh!, and what would you recommend for a rope bridge ring, on that I know exactly what you're talking about, seems to be a lot available. Thanks again for the help, I appreciate it.
PS .....still snowing.....

 

[bonner1040]

Steel:

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=882#detail

Or Aluminum:


https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=880

Fancier options:
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=1543
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=1684


Or you could use a swivel:

https://www.treestuff.com/store/products.asp?category_id=321

Or even a plate:

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=322&item=1761

 

[NHlocal]

Steel:

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=882#detail

Or Aluminum:

View attachment 46219
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=880

Fancier options:
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=1543
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=1684


Or you could use a swivel:
View attachment 46218
https://www.treestuff.com/store/products.asp?category_id=321

Or even a plate:
View attachment 46217
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=322&item=1761

Thanks Nick!
Decisions, decisions, do you have any insight/suggestions/recommendations. This is all new stuff to me, and I'm a family/working man on a "shoe string" budget so biggest bang for the buck is what I'm always looking for. Thanks again for all the help! Time to get some sleep, up at 4am tomorrow.....

 

[bonner1040]

You cant go wrong with the standard steel ring. Generally speaking the small ones are small and the large ones are pretty large. I personally use an aluminum ring but after the Kong ring failed a lot of people were turned off aluminum rings.

The ISC rings are proof tested to 16kn and rated beyond 25kn, thats the one I use.
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=880

I also have a swivel on my bride, which I put on, then took off when still climbing DRT. I am giving it another go to see how it works with SRT dynamics. It was a hassle DRT. Some people love it, others hate it.

I do like having 2 connections, either two rings or a swivel and a ring. I will clip one climbing system in to one and having another is nice for trying a quick closed DRT system as a second tie-in.

Kevin Bingham uses a rigging plate, If I was going to go that way, I would make sure to use one of the fancier, rounded ones with rope friendly curves. I havent tried that method, but do own some of the CT rigging plates pictured above and they are a good quality hardware with a rope friendly surface. The ISC ring is big enough to clip the HH's Oxan and a Petzl William in behind the HH, a rigging plate might be nice for using the HH to DRT but I cant imagine it would be that much better..

I agree though, I would never use that biner>biner connection again. You could easily shock load a biner cross gate and possibly snap it, leading to a fall.

Being used to a biner. you might like a larger ring since it extends the system out a bit, I personally like a small ring for the opposit, it keeps everything closer. Avoid the ones listed as rigging rings, those are really big.

 

[canadiantreeman]

I used my HC pulley on my bridge as an attachment. It works well and allows for an easy changeover to Ddrt. Maybe because it hurts too much to put it back in the tool box....

 

[NHlocal]

You cant go wrong with the standard steel ring. Generally speaking the small ones are small and the large ones are pretty large. I personally use an aluminum ring but after the Kong ring failed a lot of people were turned off aluminum rings.

The ISC rings are proof tested to 16kn and rated beyond 25kn, thats the one I use.
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=303&item=880

I also have a swivel on my bride, which I put on, then took off when still climbing DRT. I am giving it another go to see how it works with SRT dynamics. It was a hassle DRT. Some people love it, others hate it.

I do like having 2 connections, either two rings or a swivel and a ring. I will clip one climbing system in to one and having another is nice for trying a quick closed DRT system as a second tie-in.

Kevin Bingham uses a rigging plate, If I was going to go that way, I would make sure to use one of the fancier, rounded ones with rope friendly curves. I havent tried that method, but do own some of the CT rigging plates pictured above and they are a good quality hardware with a rope friendly surface. The ISC ring is big enough to clip the HH's Oxan and a Petzl William in behind the HH, a rigging plate might be nice for using the HH to DRT but I cant imagine it would be that much better..

I agree though, I would never use that biner>biner connection again. You could easily shock load a biner cross gate and possibly snap it, leading to a fall.

Being used to a biner. you might like a larger ring since it extends the system out a bit, I personally like a small ring for the opposit, it keeps everything closer. Avoid the ones listed as rigging rings, those are really big.

Nick,
thanks for pointing out the 'biner issue, never thought of that being a problem.
I'm more a "bare bones" guy, I like to keep things to only what I need. I really like the ring, maybe I'll get both sizes to see what works best for me?
Thanks again, time to get ready for work, put wood in the stove, and make some coffee.....