GRCS: New vs. Old

I did the same, until I started forcing myself to take the time to use it. When I did, only then did I realize that it really does a great job. Especially for letting it run. Lots more room on the surface.
 
the piece farthest to the right
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I am planning to take my aluminum bollard from the GRCS to a welding shop to put brackets on it with a big strap. I will use that instead of a porty to lower.
 
The pigtail is used as a guide for the rope so it doesn't come off of the winch or the bollard.

I guess I should have asked my question better. I understand what the pig tail is used for but why does it move out of the way? It seems to me like it would be stronger if it were stationary...when do you not want to use it?
 
It's movable so that you can get it out of the way when cranking through the fairlead on that side of the winch and for when you are taking wraps on and off.
 
Especially since I don't have the GRCS or the porty anymore. That was part of the equipment my S-I-L got when I sold him the business. I only got the aluminum bollard sitting in my garage. May as well modify it instead of buying a porty.
 
The bollard doesn't need any mods for it to work as a lowering device by itself. I just ran a big strap through it. Easier, faster and less twisting of the rope compared to a porty. I don't trust that tube for large heavy stuff, but for rigging 500 lbs and below, I trust it 100%. I am going to cut slots on the backing plate and run 2 straps through it. Then I would trust it 100% for large rigging.
 

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I'm not pickin' on you as you know what you are doing , I have those same straps (come with the Rule winch) .... I dont trust the hooks .....
 
Hey Koa man I really dont like the way the strap runs across the relatively sharp edge of the pipe. This effect will get worse as the spar size gets bigger. Appears to me a simple solution is just drill a couple of large holes in the lower section of the back plate so you can put the hooks of the strap through them. In the lower center, right under the bollard drill a 1/2" hole so when you are bombing honkers onto it you can use a 1/2" lag bolt and the strap to fix it to the tree, this will stop any likelyhood of slippage.

good luck
 
I have to agree with Wes on the twisting of rope using a porty, but to me it would be easier to just go buy a new port a wrap than do all this modification stuff for the simplier everyday lowering tasks and have the bollard for doing the really big stuff when it comes up.

Don't get me wrong I like his ideas, shows he is a thinking man and can't blame someone for making use of a piece of equipment that otherwise would just be idle clutter. Reminds me of the first bollard I built from scrap steel around the shop using a chain and load binder to fasten it to the tree. But this occurred before any port a wrap or GRCS was commercially available to buy.

That is my 2 cents worth. Maybe I should just keep my mouth shut and fingers off the keyboard and let things progress along on their own.
 
Why not just attach it like it's supposed to be attached?

If I still had the GRCS I would use the winch section instead of the bollard. With the winch section, even if you took one wrap to lower something light, when you pull on the rope it takes up the slack very well and locks it.

The GRCS bracket is heavy and you almost need two guys to attach it to the tree. (You need 2 guys to use the GRCS anyway.)

I am not at all satisfied with the setup I have shown. That was just a quick one to use the bollard. I am going to mod it further. With some not so bright groundies, I have seen them get confused on how the rope goes on a porty, even after showing them several times. Then they forget how the following week, same like remembering how to tie a bowline. Even the dimmest bulb remembers how to wrap the rope around the bollard.
 
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