Getting a new flipline, thoughts...

SouthSoundTree

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I've been looking at replacing my 1/2" flipline. Its sorta small in the hand, and with the mechanical adjuster, it doesn't release under load.

The trees I climb aren't usually too pitchy, few pines, grand firs, etc. I want a thicker flipline. I have a 5/8's at Parks, which has been nice to use, the little climbing that I've been able to do with it. I was window shopping and saw 3/4", and thought, wow, that looks easy on the hands. The problem is that it means getting a Macrograb, which isn't oriented with the 90* twist, its heavy, expensive, bulky, and doesn't release under load.

I was thinking of a 3/4" with a hitch adjuster.

There are the Maxi-flips with the flemish spliced eye. Is this necessary with a swivel connector to prevent flex fatigue?
The Maxi-flip sport is lighter. Does this just mean less cable as a lifeline?
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=159&item=1626
 
Flipline...not lanyard!

How would a fiction hitch work on 3/4" I wonder?
I use a distel on my 1/2" with a micro pulley.
 
Ever try 3 strand? It's nice because it almost holds it's shape. Works great in 1/2" with the micrograb with no spring, you can almost release yourself like a hitch.
 
I like 3-strand, though I use a prussik for an adjuster. I keep a steel-core behind the seat for times when I have lots of blocking down to do. I have a deistel/micro-pulley on it for adjustment. I've been going to try out a micrograb, just haven't done it.
 
I'm confused. You are talking about how you desire a larger than 1/2" flipline, maybe even 3/4". But then you are interested in the Sport which is under 1/2". Kind of all over the place.
 
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  • #10
Dave, thanks for that clarification. The treestuff website doesn't list a diameter. I haven't seen one. I don't know how they are constructed. It makes sense that its a thin one, but I didn't know.

A flipline and lanyard are often used synonymously. To me a flipline is used as a work positioning lanyard, but 'flips' well up the stem, particularly on vertical trunks that conifers tend to have. Their stiffness and/ or flip-ability, generally due to a wire-core nowadays, aids this. The wire core also helps to set the flipline more predictably in place, useful when blocking down big spars, as its less likely to hang up on a bark plate or nub, unnoticed, and gives a bit more protection than a non-wire core from saws (and I do use them in conjunction with a climbline).

I've only used up to 5/8"th. The old school manila rope fliplines were thick, and easier on the hands, and probably most well suited to old-growth. Some people even use chain for a flipline. Note the flipping action in old school, big tree climbing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qE5Ewgv1Zic . Note, I'm not expecting to have to climb any tree so large at to need the old school rolling flip technique, just an example. A big redwood would be a better video, but no luck on quick search.

I'm not really that concerned about the weight of the flipline, as it is negligible in weight when in use compared to the wood being handled in the tree, and to my geared up body weight.

The non-releasability, expense, and bulk and of the Macro-grab turn me off to it, in that order.
 
I just call mine a lanyard, but I agree with Butch in thinking of them as the same thing. I understand your saying that stiffness adds to "flip-ability", but on Jer's "Spur and Flipline" climbing video, the fliplines those guys are using look quite flexible, they appear to be regular 3-strand rope. A wire-core would be too stiff to "roll" the flip around the tree would it not?

I've made my own out of 5/8" Treemaster for years, but I'm thinking of trying one out of 1/2" Treemaster just to see how it works.
 
I personally like 1/2 or 5/8, when flipping up a tree it is not like your doing it for a half hour straight. Either I am there in 10 minutes or have stopped to catch my wind and then the diameter doesn't matter.
 
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  • #13
Didn't see the video. Sorry if I was unclear. The flip shown in the linked video is likely not wire core, just old, thick and rolling flips.

5/8th might be enough. I've got big hands, and the 1/2" is hard on hands and wrists over the long term. I pretty much don't climb on my 7/16" rope without ascenders.

I imagine 3 strand in 1/2" or 5/8" is much more flippy that what someone commented on, on page 1 (so I can't scroll up to see who) about 10 mm beeline. I haven't tried it for flipping, or at all, but I imagine that could make a good work positioning lanyard, but wouldn't want to pull on it as a second climbing system DdRt, or flip it up a thick bark DF.
 
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  • #14
For the 3/4", I imagine its overkill. When window shopping, I was surprised to see that 3/4" was readily available, as I don't recall seeing it before. I haven't flipline shopped in 4 years.

I like a rope lanyard for a second climbline system/ lanyard for spreading trees, and was using 20' for that.

For a flipline, I'm either looking at another 12', or a 15'. 15' is overkill most of the time, but other times its just right. I have an 8' for ALT with the 12'.
 
All of the talk so far has been about rope, but what about snaps or biners? I have noticed that the trend seems to be going towards biners or at least aluminum snaps. I prefer good old steel snaps for the end of my lanyard. I would even like a steel snap for the end of my climbing line but they won't work with the Hitch Climber pulley. Am I the only one out there who still likes steel snaps?
 
I like steel snaps. I'm still using steel snaps I brought home from Asplundh over 20 years ago. And they're still doing fine. I had to chunk on few months ago when the spring broke in it. I use a locking rope snap on one of my lines, but two of them still have the old steel snaps Asplundh was using years ago. I've NEVER had an issue with them coming UN-snapped. The major problem I've encountered with non-locking snaps is that when in a hard side pull, they'll snap into the side D as well, resulting in my having to UN-snap it so I can turn around straight again. I wouldn't buy non-ocking snaps today, but as I already have these, and have 20+ years of hanging on them, I'm not going to condemn them. They've never let me down. I splice up all my lanyards using locking snaps, some new, some old ones from worn-out lanyards.
 
My lanyard..... 1/2" Yale xtc fire, petzl micrograb with no spring on a twisted clevis, and an old school steel lobster claw tied with an anchor hitch. I leave myself 6 feet with another 6 feet daisy chained up and hooked on the back of my saddle out of the way.
 
Steel snaps on the "off the racket" lanyards.

Steel biners on the others.
 
To me, a lanyard is rope, quite long and is floppy so doesn't flip , a flipline is wire core or stiff rope and flips without flopping...:)

Lanyard for pruning, flipline for removals...whatever floats yer boat...or gets you up and down the tree in one piece
 
wow all these names...
1/2 in hurts my hands,
im a fan of the yale maxi flip 5/8, by 20 ft
and ive got it in 12 ft as well, with the gibs and the petzl macro grab, they both work,

on the old school side i have 3/4 in 3 strand rope in a 24 ft length, i use a cats paw on my dee to hold it...works fine

if i want 1/2 inch i use older rope and a prusic and a steel snap

all personal preference, and how much $ you've got to fork over
 
What about that powergrip that sherrill sells its stiff like a wire core but no cable inside rubber coated for easy grip to the hands
 
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  • #25
What about that powergrip that sherrill sells its stiff like a wire core but no cable inside rubber coated for easy grip to the hands

Is that marketed toward line clearance trimmers for non-conductivity?

I like some cut resistance of a cable, thought haven't needed it.
 
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