Chipper gets hot

SouthSoundTree

Treehouser
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Olympia, WA
My engine gets really hot on hot days. Radiator was rebuilt, fins clean, not loosing coolant like a weep hole in the water pump (though I will check this more easily with it being cleaned), 185 degree thermometer replaced the 190 degree one.

Do you suppose a layer of grease/ oil/ sawdust on the chipper engine and thick paint on the housing will make an appreciable difference in its ability to cool itself. I suspect so.

I just painted my chipper (another layer), and scraped off the engine and inside of the engine compartments. I've been using an air compressor to clean in between the nooks and crannies of the engine. I will likely degrease it at a commercial car wash that filters their water.

I intend to get a pneumatic needle scaler and get back down to bare metal and repaint, one section at a time. For now, its all shiny white. I think the thick paint from many a layer over many a year could also be causing it to be harder to cool.


We'll see come July/ August. Most always it doesn't care. Just doesn't like the heat. Maybe a Cool Vest.

This could be one of those things that is well known among more seasoned mechanics than me. Maybe a tidbit that might help someone else.
 
Air filter? Water pump working well? exhaust open? air in the system? Crap deep inside the radiator?
 
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  • #5
Its a Chrysler 318LA V8 (comparable to a Dodge Dart).

Only occurs during very hot weather (mid-80s+). It will be getting fresh everything. Oil change yesterday. Its had the fuel filter changed. I haven't changed the thermostat yet. Water pump isn't weeping that I know of, nor making noise. A faulty guage wouldn't occur only at high temps, I don't think.

I wonder if the coolant passages have gotten constricted from deposits, and the heat challenge is just a bit too much when its hot, sunny, and running for long periods of time.
 
If you have a non contact thermometer (infrared) you can check the top and bottom of the radiator. If the temp difference is more than 5-7 degrees, the radiator is corroded. If the coolant is old the radiator can corrode in a short amount of time. As stated before, a pre-ignition problem due to a timing malfunction or carbon build up can cause an engine to heat.

Often times the pulleys on engines can become worn, causing the fan to run slow or slip, might be something to check. If any modifications to the fan shroud or inlet ducting have been made or are broken, the engine may not cool properly as well. I assume the fan is direct drive and does not have a clutch, but if it does see if the fan turns easily when hot, if it does the clutch is bad.

Use your non contact thermometer on lots of things to look for irregular heat.

If your chipper has a hydraulic system ( never been around a chipper) check the temp of the cooler to see if a hydraulic problem is causing the engine cooling system to become overloaded.

Also, any mechanical failures can cause an increase in engine loads possibly overwhelming the cooling system.


Good luck!
 
An old school trick for "cleaning" passages, both in engine oil and coolant passages is add some ATF fluid to either engine oil or coolant, a litter or so. Run the engine, and watch very closely. ATF has detergents and will clean internally very well. If added to engine oil, avoid running for prolonged period. Now, if added to coolant system it might take a few flushes to remove all traces of oil. when you change the engine oil or coolant, it will be very very dark and dirty.
 
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  • #13
How hot, as in a what is the gauge reading?

Maybe an extra 15 degrees or so (on the guage).

It doesn't hurt to degrease. I have so many maintenance things to do, that I haven't focused on this. I never have trouble except on hot days.

I did have it really not in the past in the summer, then got the radiator rebuild. I will have a change on the thermostat and hoses when I do the coolant.

No hydraulics (generally thankfully, for around here, its fast).

Haven't had the timing checked, nor do I have a timing light.
 
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  • #14
On that note, on my chip truck, which runs hot during the summer, as well, but not too hot on the gauge, the fan blades were cut down by the last guy. He swapped a GMC radiator into this old 1990 Ford. I had to put in a new radiator when I got it. I guess I could most easily get a new fan (might be one piece plastic). I didn't check for a fan clutch, or its operation.



Typing this stuff out sometimes helps to trouble shoot in my head, especially with others' inputs. It also help increase my to-do list.
 
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  • #16
yes, direct drive on the chipper, since it doesn't have driving induced wind on the radiator. I'll check the fan on my truck for a clutch.
 
I took a hose and degreaser to my last chipper radiator and was amazed how much garbage came out.
 
The radiator on my Bandit 200xp is 4" deep, seems like a foot. I blew it out today and had a solid inch of debris on a 3x3 foot area. Then I power washed it and got more crap out of it. Mind you I just did this in Nov. Depending on what you chip regularly, you need to clean that thing more often.
 
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  • #22
Radiator rebuilt easily within 1000 hours. Coolant was flushed. Maybe 3 years ago. I have a fiberglass window screen over my radiator, which helps a lot, and big chips help too, I think. I tried back-blowing it the other day. Didn't see much. When out of the barn tomorrow, I'll back wash the radiator.

The timing was set several years back. Dunno how much it will get out of whack.
I throttle it down progressively, rather than drop from full WOT to idle, as it will 'pop' a bit, a backfire. Especially when hot. When working in the winter this is never a problem.

It could have a bit of sticky thermostat, that is pushing it over the edge when there is a lot of heat challenge. I'll change it and the coolant soon.

Mine engine has flat tappets, and I added Lucas zinc additive for racing cars. Supposed to be important. Done it one or twice before, too. It hasn't had a ton of oil changes, but its always run within the range, toward the high end. I know, I know, the filter.
 
Window screen over the rad will cause them to run hotter from restricted airflow.

Run a 160 Deg thermostat for a while and see if that makes it any better.
 
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  • #24
What is the trade-off of running a colder thermostat, if anything?

I hope to get the engine properly degreased this week. It will then be more apparent if I have any weep hole drainage on the water pump. I haven't smelled anything, and don't think I have loss of fluid.
 
I had it explained to me that a cooler thermostat can lead to problems. An engine that does not reach proper temp may not evaporate any water in the oil and may have deposits build in the combustion chambers. Not my personal experience though. I always run 180 or hotter.
 
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