Revolutionary "new" tree climbing tool. Upgrade your tree game and on ground!
Aloha fellow brothers and sisters of the trees! First time poster, long time climber. I'm a certified arborist on the Big Island of Hawaii for 13 years and work in all kinds here: Coastal salt cured Iron Wood, acre covering Bayans, towering Norfolk Pines, groves of coconuts and all kinds of fruit orchards. This tool has allowed me to fall back in love with my job and has increased not only my tree game, but also my capabilities on the ground. It's one of those things you wonder how you ever lived without! I have never felt safer, more at ease, or more capable, but the icing and cherry on top is that I have a lot more fun climbing trees and even dragging branches! It is in this spirit I write to you.
Presenting the Monster X, ice and rock climbing multi-tool by Grivel. I am not affiliated with the company, there are several similar shaped climbing axes from other companies for a lot more money. It's the best I found suited to my needs for the price ($100-150). You might find better...and if you do, let me know!
Here it is in all it's unmodified glory:
Looks like a sea horse...I call it my tree horse. It does more work than possibly even my saddle!
Now some tree climbing purists might grumble but chew on this: It is rated for higher impact in a harsher environment for the exact same activity. It turns 130% of your hand holds into the same grip that you never have to let go of (2 new types of grip on branchless trunks, 1 on medium sized limbs, see bonus section). It's a hooking hold that "never" fails in strength, combined with a belt attachment it's effectively a 3rd "arm" that never gets tired. It concentrates all pull-force to the branch collar with a 1/4 inch wide drop-forged, serrated hook that reduces my 4 inch wide hand leverage on any given branch by almost 94%, making it effectively zero, increasing the number of branches I can safely use. And yes there is a high puncture/cut hazard but this is addressed in "Tree uses (modified)". No change is made to the steel/tool itself.
Safety Note: This does not replace any PPE already in use and is not intended as a fall arrest device. It's listed as category 2 PPE and a B rated pick. I use it as a climbing/branch handling assist and work station anchor in addition to local and life lines.
Specs: 18.25 inches long by 10 inches wide, square. 5/16in wide chrome-steel allow shaft w/ 2 contoured grips. 3/4in contoured handle (steel is sandwiched in rubbery plastic, 3 total hand holds. 4 clip holes (3 large 1 small), 1 "collar" attachment point (explained later). Optional rear hammer head (pictured above and the type I use) or shovel/adze head. The tip has a 2in long cutting blade on top with "tanto" style smaller tip blade at angle. Handle "butt-spike" with serrated gripping teeth. "Gate" opening - distance from index finger at bottom whole hand grip to the tip of point - 11 inches. Holding the end of the tool I can effectively increase my reach by 1ft. Comes in several color schemes including "high vis" white/blue and black/yellow which matches many Sherrill brand products. Also comes with about a 10 inch length of rubber gripping that can be cut and applied anywhere on the metal shaft. I put these on the front and back of the second hand position and wrapped them in black grip tape.
Ground uses (unmodified): It can be put to use right out of the box as a pic-a-roon - the shape of the point is triangular, like climbing spurs, and grabs logs with ease pulling them off the ground without bending all the way over, or grabbing them from over the top of a fence. Basically you can tomahawk a handle into any chunk of wood and drag it (or yourself) as you please. The hammer head option is useful for driving wedges within allowance of it's mass (watch that pointy tip! addressed in next section). It's also great for branch dragging as I can make a pile, hook the bottom branch and pull the whole thing without the shifting limbs torquing my hand or twisting my fingers. I use it in reverse position for this so that the hand position are like using a shovel. Handle anything with thorns with speed and ease. Not recommended for use loading a chipper for obvious reasons.
Tree uses (modified): First off; puncture protection: As a slip-on "nozzle", I used a 4.5 inch long peace of clear rubber tubing w/ internal diameter of 3/4in and a wall thickness of 1/8 inch. After it bends/squeezes vertically to max and catches on the blunt serrations this gives me 1 inch of strong cushion between the point and any potentially punctured medium, tree or self. It reaches 1.5 inches behind the tip blade but small cuts occur internally and should be monitored. I have only used this for a few climbs so wear and tear life is unknown and should also be watched. I use this nozzle both in the trees and on the ground, only removing it when I absolutely need to use the point. This way I can swing/drop the tool without worry and strap it to my belt without fear of it cutting any equipment. Strongly recommended.
While you could attach this to your belt bridge by an adjustable length rope or cable if you are worried about cut resistance, the pure magic of this tool is "unleashed" with a chain: A 46 inch daisy chain to be exact. The one I use is from Sherrill and rated at 28.9 kN/6500 breaking strength, 650lb WLL @ factor 10.Plenty safe for human weight suspension This is where the 5th "collar" attachment comes into play: Just above the handle is another "scoop" meant for cupping the bottom of the your pinky at the second handhold where the metal shaft dives into the wider handle. This is where I attach the daisy chain directly with a single wrap "prusik" choke - there is no possibility of slipping off and no metal on metal clank or abrasion. The grip tape I wrapped over the metal shaft, under the prusik also provides a tacky surface for the daisy chain to "bite" into and discourages any loosening that might occur. (This where I applied the extra rubber grips on the metal under the tape, often held there during ground use. Also I don't recommend applying them to the bottom of the section of the metal handle directly behind the forged head; it often contacts the wood on large branches and will eventually abrade away whatever you have there.)
Here it is in all it's modified glory:
Now I'm 5'10 with a about a 2ft grasp reach; the 46 inch daisy chain gives me a fully outstretched reach, with minimum slack from a carabiner in the center of a triple holed pulley on my rope bridge, from the second to last loop. Only 3 inch's of "dangle" and it's another attachment point.
Now here is where it goes from "wow, that's really cool..." to "OMG my life is complete!": Not counting the top loop around around the Monster X, it has 11 more attachment loops! Once I climb to working position and link up locally, I can unhook the daisy chain from my belt and independently hang all kinds of whatever from it! With another micro-pulley at the top loop, I could pull up and simultaneously hang; my climbing saw, a larger logging saw, bag of lowering ropes and gear, a telescoping chainsaw, a 2 gallon water cooler and my lunch box and still have 5 more attachment loops! Also, carabiners can be simply left at regular intervals for handholds as when I use the full, taunt length of the daisy chain, the tool handle is out of reach (I only need 1 extra biner handle). The chain is also "adjustable" as I can reel myself in and attach close at the first loop with one of my other biners or trap the current loop under the gate as I connect to the new one. Using a triple holed micro pulley on my saddle rope-bridge I can attach my life line and friction device on either side and while under full weight, the middle biner is still free and operable to attach/unattached the daisy chain/Monster X combination. Pure, logistics, heaven.
If you are looking to spice up your long standing tree life or just sprouting a career in climbing, I cannot recommend this set up enough!
Bonus Section: The spur-like point allows penetrative purchase in any vertical wood surface, strong enough to pull your body weight. Hooking it around the back of the trunk in a kind of "plumbers wrench" grab allows a "bicep curl" style grab on any trunk within reasonable diameter. It can also grab a medium sized branch in a "torque pinch" between the hook and the first metal section, inline with the limb. This is the least sure of all grabs and is best used as a hand position to push yourself up rather than pull.
The butt spike and teeth allow for a planted fist on any wood surface, also mainly for pushing motions. Using the rear hammer I can drive wedges or "knock on wood" to check for hollows, rot and test the general integrity of the wood before I trust it with my life. In a similar manner I can break dead branches/stubs with hammer swings. Also the all metal shaft is in no danger of breaking/cracking when swung against dead branches as a composite or carbon fiber shaft would be.
If you are working a row of trees or find yourself dangling in mid air (which you should avoid or plan for), the Monster X in combination with your local line can be used as a tossed grappling hook to pull yourself like a pendulum. This would be on a life line over to another tree or back to the one you are in.
I don't have a helmcom or a whistle (I should) but clocking a tree which the hammer repeated got my ground crew's attention over the chipper and running saws.
Here in Hawaii I work in a great deal of palms and often the previous trimmer has left the butts of fronds to harden into a fibrous mass around the trunk - the pick, used as a lever, rips this off with ease without taxing my grip or risk of skewer. (coconut tree "paper" has long running cross-hatched fibers that will impale any hand that slips along them)
Last but not least; the use of the this tool greatly reduces the amount of callus abrasion and dirt/sap accumulation on my hands. Your significant other will appreciate this.
All in all, it makes my working life absolutely blissful. I hope you have enjoyed this little review of an extremely useful tool, happy to field any questions, concerns or further ideas regarding it's uses. Climb safe and have fun!
P.S. There is a very similar tool made also by Grivel called the Lil' Monster. It's 1/3 shorter with no rear head option but encloses the handle with an integrated metal finger guard. You can punch dead branches at will. I have used it but prefer the Monster X due to greater reach and number of handholds, plus if you lay the handle directly against the wood, the top and bottom scoops take the weight and keep the fingers away and safe. The Lil' Monster though, is more packable.
One additional recommend modification is a high vis paint job (if you get the black/yellow version, no need with blue/white). I am going to spray the hook and first section with florescent orange which is why it is so scratched up in my photos. I lost my lil monster in the shadows of a giant cypress hedge.
Aloha!
Aloha fellow brothers and sisters of the trees! First time poster, long time climber. I'm a certified arborist on the Big Island of Hawaii for 13 years and work in all kinds here: Coastal salt cured Iron Wood, acre covering Bayans, towering Norfolk Pines, groves of coconuts and all kinds of fruit orchards. This tool has allowed me to fall back in love with my job and has increased not only my tree game, but also my capabilities on the ground. It's one of those things you wonder how you ever lived without! I have never felt safer, more at ease, or more capable, but the icing and cherry on top is that I have a lot more fun climbing trees and even dragging branches! It is in this spirit I write to you.
Presenting the Monster X, ice and rock climbing multi-tool by Grivel. I am not affiliated with the company, there are several similar shaped climbing axes from other companies for a lot more money. It's the best I found suited to my needs for the price ($100-150). You might find better...and if you do, let me know!
Here it is in all it's unmodified glory:
Looks like a sea horse...I call it my tree horse. It does more work than possibly even my saddle!
Now some tree climbing purists might grumble but chew on this: It is rated for higher impact in a harsher environment for the exact same activity. It turns 130% of your hand holds into the same grip that you never have to let go of (2 new types of grip on branchless trunks, 1 on medium sized limbs, see bonus section). It's a hooking hold that "never" fails in strength, combined with a belt attachment it's effectively a 3rd "arm" that never gets tired. It concentrates all pull-force to the branch collar with a 1/4 inch wide drop-forged, serrated hook that reduces my 4 inch wide hand leverage on any given branch by almost 94%, making it effectively zero, increasing the number of branches I can safely use. And yes there is a high puncture/cut hazard but this is addressed in "Tree uses (modified)". No change is made to the steel/tool itself.
Safety Note: This does not replace any PPE already in use and is not intended as a fall arrest device. It's listed as category 2 PPE and a B rated pick. I use it as a climbing/branch handling assist and work station anchor in addition to local and life lines.
Specs: 18.25 inches long by 10 inches wide, square. 5/16in wide chrome-steel allow shaft w/ 2 contoured grips. 3/4in contoured handle (steel is sandwiched in rubbery plastic, 3 total hand holds. 4 clip holes (3 large 1 small), 1 "collar" attachment point (explained later). Optional rear hammer head (pictured above and the type I use) or shovel/adze head. The tip has a 2in long cutting blade on top with "tanto" style smaller tip blade at angle. Handle "butt-spike" with serrated gripping teeth. "Gate" opening - distance from index finger at bottom whole hand grip to the tip of point - 11 inches. Holding the end of the tool I can effectively increase my reach by 1ft. Comes in several color schemes including "high vis" white/blue and black/yellow which matches many Sherrill brand products. Also comes with about a 10 inch length of rubber gripping that can be cut and applied anywhere on the metal shaft. I put these on the front and back of the second hand position and wrapped them in black grip tape.
Ground uses (unmodified): It can be put to use right out of the box as a pic-a-roon - the shape of the point is triangular, like climbing spurs, and grabs logs with ease pulling them off the ground without bending all the way over, or grabbing them from over the top of a fence. Basically you can tomahawk a handle into any chunk of wood and drag it (or yourself) as you please. The hammer head option is useful for driving wedges within allowance of it's mass (watch that pointy tip! addressed in next section). It's also great for branch dragging as I can make a pile, hook the bottom branch and pull the whole thing without the shifting limbs torquing my hand or twisting my fingers. I use it in reverse position for this so that the hand position are like using a shovel. Handle anything with thorns with speed and ease. Not recommended for use loading a chipper for obvious reasons.
Tree uses (modified): First off; puncture protection: As a slip-on "nozzle", I used a 4.5 inch long peace of clear rubber tubing w/ internal diameter of 3/4in and a wall thickness of 1/8 inch. After it bends/squeezes vertically to max and catches on the blunt serrations this gives me 1 inch of strong cushion between the point and any potentially punctured medium, tree or self. It reaches 1.5 inches behind the tip blade but small cuts occur internally and should be monitored. I have only used this for a few climbs so wear and tear life is unknown and should also be watched. I use this nozzle both in the trees and on the ground, only removing it when I absolutely need to use the point. This way I can swing/drop the tool without worry and strap it to my belt without fear of it cutting any equipment. Strongly recommended.
While you could attach this to your belt bridge by an adjustable length rope or cable if you are worried about cut resistance, the pure magic of this tool is "unleashed" with a chain: A 46 inch daisy chain to be exact. The one I use is from Sherrill and rated at 28.9 kN/6500 breaking strength, 650lb WLL @ factor 10.Plenty safe for human weight suspension This is where the 5th "collar" attachment comes into play: Just above the handle is another "scoop" meant for cupping the bottom of the your pinky at the second handhold where the metal shaft dives into the wider handle. This is where I attach the daisy chain directly with a single wrap "prusik" choke - there is no possibility of slipping off and no metal on metal clank or abrasion. The grip tape I wrapped over the metal shaft, under the prusik also provides a tacky surface for the daisy chain to "bite" into and discourages any loosening that might occur. (This where I applied the extra rubber grips on the metal under the tape, often held there during ground use. Also I don't recommend applying them to the bottom of the section of the metal handle directly behind the forged head; it often contacts the wood on large branches and will eventually abrade away whatever you have there.)
Here it is in all it's modified glory:
Now I'm 5'10 with a about a 2ft grasp reach; the 46 inch daisy chain gives me a fully outstretched reach, with minimum slack from a carabiner in the center of a triple holed pulley on my rope bridge, from the second to last loop. Only 3 inch's of "dangle" and it's another attachment point.
Now here is where it goes from "wow, that's really cool..." to "OMG my life is complete!": Not counting the top loop around around the Monster X, it has 11 more attachment loops! Once I climb to working position and link up locally, I can unhook the daisy chain from my belt and independently hang all kinds of whatever from it! With another micro-pulley at the top loop, I could pull up and simultaneously hang; my climbing saw, a larger logging saw, bag of lowering ropes and gear, a telescoping chainsaw, a 2 gallon water cooler and my lunch box and still have 5 more attachment loops! Also, carabiners can be simply left at regular intervals for handholds as when I use the full, taunt length of the daisy chain, the tool handle is out of reach (I only need 1 extra biner handle). The chain is also "adjustable" as I can reel myself in and attach close at the first loop with one of my other biners or trap the current loop under the gate as I connect to the new one. Using a triple holed micro pulley on my saddle rope-bridge I can attach my life line and friction device on either side and while under full weight, the middle biner is still free and operable to attach/unattached the daisy chain/Monster X combination. Pure, logistics, heaven.
If you are looking to spice up your long standing tree life or just sprouting a career in climbing, I cannot recommend this set up enough!
Bonus Section: The spur-like point allows penetrative purchase in any vertical wood surface, strong enough to pull your body weight. Hooking it around the back of the trunk in a kind of "plumbers wrench" grab allows a "bicep curl" style grab on any trunk within reasonable diameter. It can also grab a medium sized branch in a "torque pinch" between the hook and the first metal section, inline with the limb. This is the least sure of all grabs and is best used as a hand position to push yourself up rather than pull.
The butt spike and teeth allow for a planted fist on any wood surface, also mainly for pushing motions. Using the rear hammer I can drive wedges or "knock on wood" to check for hollows, rot and test the general integrity of the wood before I trust it with my life. In a similar manner I can break dead branches/stubs with hammer swings. Also the all metal shaft is in no danger of breaking/cracking when swung against dead branches as a composite or carbon fiber shaft would be.
If you are working a row of trees or find yourself dangling in mid air (which you should avoid or plan for), the Monster X in combination with your local line can be used as a tossed grappling hook to pull yourself like a pendulum. This would be on a life line over to another tree or back to the one you are in.
I don't have a helmcom or a whistle (I should) but clocking a tree which the hammer repeated got my ground crew's attention over the chipper and running saws.
Here in Hawaii I work in a great deal of palms and often the previous trimmer has left the butts of fronds to harden into a fibrous mass around the trunk - the pick, used as a lever, rips this off with ease without taxing my grip or risk of skewer. (coconut tree "paper" has long running cross-hatched fibers that will impale any hand that slips along them)
Last but not least; the use of the this tool greatly reduces the amount of callus abrasion and dirt/sap accumulation on my hands. Your significant other will appreciate this.
All in all, it makes my working life absolutely blissful. I hope you have enjoyed this little review of an extremely useful tool, happy to field any questions, concerns or further ideas regarding it's uses. Climb safe and have fun!
P.S. There is a very similar tool made also by Grivel called the Lil' Monster. It's 1/3 shorter with no rear head option but encloses the handle with an integrated metal finger guard. You can punch dead branches at will. I have used it but prefer the Monster X due to greater reach and number of handholds, plus if you lay the handle directly against the wood, the top and bottom scoops take the weight and keep the fingers away and safe. The Lil' Monster though, is more packable.
One additional recommend modification is a high vis paint job (if you get the black/yellow version, no need with blue/white). I am going to spray the hook and first section with florescent orange which is why it is so scratched up in my photos. I lost my lil monster in the shadows of a giant cypress hedge.
Aloha!
.
