Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

Works real well, I personally don't use it with the HH. I like my hitch close to my chest and due to using a extra beaner for HH orientation puts it a bit further up than I like.
 
For me the Cooper's worked overall better than the standard HH hitch. Using the HH hitch with 7 wraps worked best for me.
Right now the XT seems to be working a bit better than the Cooper's.....:thumbup: I need to put more climb time on it to be sure. ;)

I'll be using it tomorrow, I've got a couple "good sized" trees I'm taking down..... :thumbup::D

Oh, and I also started using a pulley to tend the HH. Only used it on one climb but, seems to make a big difference. :D
 
I did the SRT/DRT thing yesterday in a cedar after reading the latter part of this thread.
It worked pretty well. The best part is the ability to choose and switch between both systems as needed with one piece of climbing hardware. Only the addition of a biner for the other end of the line for DRT.
If I'd gone up with the HC, some of the manouvering in tight spaces would have been more difficult DRT, as it was I cinched my line at a good spot and wiggled out on the branches SRT, no problem, no dragging on extra friction.
 
Are there any down side's to the Cooper's hitch. .
I'll try to find the thread he posted those in.

One of my favorite things about the HH is once I learned it it was pretty idiot proof.
Not being the sharpest tack in the box I can keep my brain freed up on a bit of RAM for all the other things I need to be thinking about when up a tree.
The HH hitch and the Blake's hitch seem to be the only 2 that I use most of the time. . I use the Blake's when moving a line to anothertree. And moving from tree to tree. It has worked good so far.
 
Works a charm for advancing you line in a crowded flat crown as well Fiona. One side of a blue oak had arched rather flat with no goo high TIP. I swung over from the other leader and started laddering my way up.. So it went like this...
Ascend SRT and use ALT SRT climb line to advance to good high TIP. Switch to Ddrt and descend... Swing to next leader. Climb that leader like ladder 2/3rds with 3 point hands and feet with flip line for transitions. Set and then advance the working end returning to SRT with a high cinched TIP. Use biners and loop runners with crotches to lead climb up the flat top. Cut mistletoe. Move down and back toward cinched TIP removing redirects. Since there was some tip work below me, once I got to the cinched end, I retrieved the Ddrt TIP FS and set it at the new TIP selected in the top I was in. Descend and limb walk Ddrt. Tree done... Descend Ddrt and retrieve friction saver. ....
 
Took down a hazardous Beech today. Worked the whole tree with an almost entirely "new" setup on my HH.
I got some 10mm Armor-Prus and used it tied in a Cooper's hitch. I also used a Pinto pulley to tend with.
I really couldn't be much happier with the way it performed, even better than I expected. :thumbup::D
The Armor-Prus grabbed without slipping and released with minimal effort, "almost" too easy. But, it never slipped.
The Pinto pulley worked great with no trouble at all.
Oh, and I got the tree on the ground safely too..... ;)

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Sweet randy! 10mm AP works well with my weight and rope. 190# and poison Ivey.
 
Yes, it is a CT and I like it better than the old Pantin. I can't comment on the new one as I have not tried it. Everything about the CT is high quality and well thought out. That fat Vortex line runs through it just fine and the lock is great in my opinion.
 
I had a post on here somewhere with pics comparing the ct and new pantin. I never had a problem with the pantin kicking out but I haven't used it with the haas either. I prefer the ct as well and it works well enough right off the ground w/o weight on the rope
 
Here you go. You don't need to go through all the trouble of cutting a hook into one to make it work. I was just having problems taking it on and off in the tree, for redirects when needed. You'll notice I am not using the plastic tether for advancing the HH but I have left it on as it does a good job of keeping the carabiner trapped in the right position.
 

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Works a charm for advancing you line in a crowded flat crown as well Fiona. One side of a blue oak had arched rather flat with no goo high TIP. I swung over from the other leader and started laddering my way up.. So it went like this...
Ascend SRT and use ALT SRT climb line to advance to good high TIP. Switch to Ddrt and descend... Swing to next leader. Climb that leader like ladder 2/3rds with 3 point hands and feet with flip line for transitions. Set and then advance the working end returning to SRT with a high cinched TIP. Use biners and loop runners with crotches to lead climb up the flat top. Cut mistletoe. Move down and back toward cinched TIP removing redirects. Since there was some tip work below me, once I got to the cinched end, I retrieved the Ddrt TIP FS and set it at the new TIP selected in the top I was in. Descend and limb walk Ddrt. Tree done... Descend Ddrt and retrieve friction saver. ....


You're doing the SRT/DRT changover thing with one rope, right? Is there a thread discussion on this somewhere? I've been using two ropes.
 
Here you go. You don't need to go through all the trouble of cutting a hook into one to make it work. I was just having problems taking it on and off in the tree, for redirects when needed. You'll notice I am not using the plastic tether for advancing the HH but I have left it on as it does a good job of keeping the carabiner trapped in the right position.

Interesting.....your system advances with no trouble hooked to the bridge ring? :?
Nice! :thumbup: That would be so much easier than "fussing" with the tether loop. :thumbup::D
 
Yes it does and is. Set up this way, the HH just glides up the rope once you find the proper hitch/rope combination. For me that is 8 mm Armor-prus, 5 wrap falling to 4 HH hitch on Vortex.
 
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