What would you do? Smallish leaning walnut

[Roundhouse]

Hey treehousers, I’m removing this walnut tree for a friend and thought I’d put this out there to see what y’all think.
The tree is healthy so it should have pretty good holding wood. That said it needs to go 90 degrees from the lean. The direction the photo is taken from. Thinking I’ll climb up or use the pole saw to remove some of the branches from the right side to lighten it and prevent branches locking up in the adjacent maple. Tie off a couple of the main leaders to another tree to the left and put some tension on it against the lean. Tie another line and tension towards the lay (maybe slightly left of the lay). Cut a gap face so it’ll stay on the stump a bit longer. Back cut and pull it over with the tractor. Lots of little bits and bobs around to avoid but nothing super high consequences if it doesn’t hit the mark exactly.
Thoughts?

 

[lxskllr]

Sounds reasonable to me, but I don't know anything. If it were mine, I might be inclined to take it down in place, but that's probably less efficient, and I can't see what else is going on there.

 

[stikine]

You plan sounds solid but I would adjust your gunning cut to account for the side lean as well...don't want to hit that Hobbit house after all

 

[Roundhouse]

Yeah, my buddy's daughter would be super bummed if I blasted the hobbit house! There's a big rabbit hutch back in the bushes there too. Thanks for the tip!

 

[ruel]

What's behind you in the picture? Looks like it would fit in that hole alright. probably a good place to use a tapered hinge, leave more wood on the tension side. A single retainer line 90 degrees to the lay would be smart.

 

[Roundhouse]

Thanks, yeah it’ll fit in the hole where I took the picture from. Retainer line at 90 to the lay is exactly what I was thinking too. Don’t want to mash up the little pond there. Probably put a piece of ply over it just in case.

 

[theTreeSpyder]

Not a very wide stump for plotting leveraged distance in between pivot and tension in Tapered Hinge, i'd consider relief of some side weight too. It does kinda look could take some side rear pieces and then tumble top pieces over backwards to open hole, as to then slap back side of trunk lean.

i'd prefer a Tapered style that is extremely to off side, center punched so more fiber to fade wider around the back off side, so that just doesn't start with straight line of fiber against lean, but as tree comes forward, there is about always straight line of hinge fiber ushering that new present angled position.
.
This extreme is where i have played with rope adding to Tapered Hinge angle pull but have to get that just right.
i would also pull hard forward, for the total sum of the leveraged weight is not pulling that direction so much;
to then force a stronger hinge that way, so would force one with temp false load of rope pull/wedge push to compensate.

 

[Roundhouse]

Cool diagram, thanks! Any issues with that big chunk of holding wood (bottom example) breaking out early and causing it to leave the stump before the direction of fall is established? I'm thinking with a rope tensioned at 90 degrees to the lay I can get away with a less extreme tapered hinge. Definitely going to lighten up that leaning side before falling.

 

[theTreeSpyder]

Always betting on blind draw as cut, but it would seem that position is already holding well. Secret to Tapered Hinge is what saw does not take from existing support that is in place.
.
If felling directly into lean, forces response of stronger hinge, thicker.
But side load of same value only has much lesser pulling forward to force thicker hinge, fake this with rope to regain strength response at start, for the load will travel forward pulling then more harder across the thinner hinge....
.
Tapered and side rope are just ballasts responding to side load, allow to ballast/equal out side load and only leave/reveal/express forward pull home.
.
Always try for light and easy , self working, breathlessly light mechanix first, bulldawg from there a/n, realizing risks of escalated forces etc.

 

[No_Bivy]

I would run a craiglist ad describing the value of Walnut and how the can have for free if they remove it.

 

[lxskllr]

and it'll only cost him a hobbit house, a rabbit hutch, and a little bit of fence! Might have to fill some yard ruts also, but hey, a deal's a deal! :^D

 

[No_Bivy]

actually they should pay you for the log after they take it down

 

[Marc-Antoine]

That would be costly for just a bunch of firewood logs. It seems too small in diameter to have any value as a woogworking stock. Maybe to turn one pen or two.

 

[Roundhouse]

I’d take the log myself but the homeowner wants to keep it. My neighbor keeps talking about getting a mill. Everything but the log is staying onsite as firewood or chips.

 

[murphy4trees]

walnut can't be trusted... very unstable no matter how you cut the hinge. sure throw a tapered hinge sizwheel and adjust the gun to compensate for side lean, but only trust the retainer line. set it high and anchor well

 

[Roundhouse]

walnut can't be trusted... very unstable no matter how you cut the hinge. sure throw a tapered hinge sizwheel and adjust the gun to compensate for side lean, but only trust the retainer line. set it high and anchor well

I’ll keep that in mind. The retainer line will have a good position in a big tree. I’ll post a couple pics in a week from tomorrow!

 

[flushcut]

I would run a craiglist ad describing the value of Walnut and how the can have for free if they remove it.

 

[murphy4trees]

I’ll keep that in mind. The retainer line will have a good position in a big tree. I’ll post a couple pics in a week from tomorrow!

If it's well placed you don't need to worry so much about side weight, interfering limbs are more of a concern. If there is enough room, you should be OK with minimal trimming. Looks from the pic that those branches will slide right off there, but pics can be deceiving.

 

[Tommy_B]

How big is the tree to the left of the picture?
Tie a sturdy line into that. Aim the Walnut for the centre of the direction of lean and the direction you want it to go and swing it into the gap.
Roberts your Mothers Brother. Home for Brandy and cigars

 

[Roundhouse]

How big is the tree to the left of the picture?
Tie a sturdy line into that. Aim the Walnut for the centre of the direction of lean and the direction you want it to go and swing it into the gap.
Roberts your Mothers Brother. Home for Brandy and cigars

The tree to the left that I’ll anchor the retainer to is at least 2’ DBH.

 

[Al Smith]

Seems to be a lot of hoopla about walnut .That's not a prime lumber log so it's worth about what firewood goes for .Which is not saying some good lumber couldn't be made on a small scale perhaps by a hobby sawyer with a bandsaw ..Factor into that it's a yard tree most hardwood mills wouldn't touch it .

 

[Roundhouse]

Seems to be a lot of hoopla about walnut .That's not a prime lumber log so it's worth about what firewood goes for .Which is not saying some good lumber couldn't be made on a small scale perhaps by a hobby sawyer with a bandsaw ..Factor into that it's a yard tree most hardwood mills wouldn't touch it .

Haha, no hoopla here. The homeowner is keeping the log to maybe do some chainsaw milling at some point. Not hauling anywhere or trying to sell it.

 

[Roundhouse]

Well, after I looked at it again I decided to brush it out before dropping it. Just too many things to smash and it didn’t quite fit where I wanted it. Lots of rigging down long, heavy branches.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

I'm surprised by the amount of heart wood. I took down some walnuts about this size but with only one inch at most of valuable wood. All sap wood a few feet above the ground.

You pulled it with the tractor or just by the wedges?

 

[Roundhouse]

Yeah, the heart wood looks really cool. I pulled and wedged until it was close to plumb then just pulled it over once I knew the rigging was all good.