davidwyby
Desert Beaver
Going to be dropping this from a lift. Smaller one on the right first. Open to input, thanks.
Big Aleppo pine leaning on other trees
- Thread starter davidwyby
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davidwyby
Desert Beaver
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #4
I don’t climb.
I don’t think it could be worked down from the stump. I spose if he really doesn’t care about the other trees I could just cut them all.
The trees closest to the house (call it left or south if we are facing down the lean, which is west) are most wanted to keep. The one on the right is mostly dead. The one in the middle is what it’s mostly leaning on. I could notch and back cut it to the right leaving a heavy hinge, maybe with a triple hinge and then winch the whole thing down right/north. Probably drop the dead one first.
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biggun
Monkey for Hire
With a lift, start at the outer edge of the canopy and work your way in to the big wood. Usually pretty quick IMO.
If he isn't arsed about damage, slam some bigger bits. Just beware of your cuts and how they may land... Go too big and the tip can hit first and the but kick back and land behind the cutting point, possibly hitting the lift.
Just something to be aware of.
If he isn't arsed about damage, slam some bigger bits. Just beware of your cuts and how they may land... Go too big and the tip can hit first and the but kick back and land behind the cutting point, possibly hitting the lift.
Just something to be aware of.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
flushcut
TreeHouser
Think ahead where the lift will be placed incase of sudden trunk failure when you start cutting on the tree and shift the pressure points.
biggun
Monkey for Hire
If that we my job, I would just cut and chuck and stack from the Lift. Then bring a loader in with forks to shift the brash.
No need to do it all big, however, "Big chunks make big hunks!" SO if you can do it safely, send away.
No need to do it all big, however, "Big chunks make big hunks!" SO if you can do it safely, send away.
theTreeSpyder
TreeHouser
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2016
- Messages
- 691
Think tank/ devil's advocate, mite not use as final plan in whole or part; but would look at from both angles:
Drop wires, unload weight from 1st/smaller tree top, strip rest of lower 'feathers' leaving spar and stub that is pointing right in initial pic and maybe a foot of spar above.
Extruding helpful boom(in chess game never use saw to throw away a helpful card/key position, ballast nor shielding etc.) for 2nd tree.
>>1st tree is already proven to hold more than has now, even thru storms(after cuts).
>>then fortify 1st tree in opposing direction than 2nd tree.
Use same rigging line or brace line to dispense with initial tree; when done with boom usage.
>>can use boom alone or as solo rig, shared support(dual lines) or just to take some rigging load off 2nd tree(single line).
.
Would walk firmly, perhaps probe on ground opposing lean on 2nd tree, feeling for any sponginess.
>>possible bracing concern, bracing would be tightened up a bit as unloaded lean
>>once a bit of weight off is more sturdy, but potentially 'sloppy' too, if try to play off of it, would tighten brace to avoid impacting if rigging from,
that is quite a leveraged angle lean, thumbrule: 45degrees would be 70.7% of leverage of full potential of totally leaned over horizontal, parallel with ground.
.
To me, nickeling and diming out is for when cornered;
try to play to art, and expansion of art of surgical large in high focus, trying to make that even the safer option of less renditions.
In the end is also a business of efficiency too, and possible hybrid of plans combined; but all different ways should be thought out i think.
Like chess game.
Drop wires, unload weight from 1st/smaller tree top, strip rest of lower 'feathers' leaving spar and stub that is pointing right in initial pic and maybe a foot of spar above.
Extruding helpful boom(in chess game never use saw to throw away a helpful card/key position, ballast nor shielding etc.) for 2nd tree.
>>1st tree is already proven to hold more than has now, even thru storms(after cuts).
>>then fortify 1st tree in opposing direction than 2nd tree.
Use same rigging line or brace line to dispense with initial tree; when done with boom usage.
>>can use boom alone or as solo rig, shared support(dual lines) or just to take some rigging load off 2nd tree(single line).
.
Would walk firmly, perhaps probe on ground opposing lean on 2nd tree, feeling for any sponginess.
>>possible bracing concern, bracing would be tightened up a bit as unloaded lean
>>once a bit of weight off is more sturdy, but potentially 'sloppy' too, if try to play off of it, would tighten brace to avoid impacting if rigging from,
that is quite a leveraged angle lean, thumbrule: 45degrees would be 70.7% of leverage of full potential of totally leaned over horizontal, parallel with ground.
.
To me, nickeling and diming out is for when cornered;
try to play to art, and expansion of art of surgical large in high focus, trying to make that even the safer option of less renditions.
In the end is also a business of efficiency too, and possible hybrid of plans combined; but all different ways should be thought out i think.
Like chess game.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
Burnham
Woods walker
That is a lot of hinge. Boring the back cut would have been worth considering. Or the Coos Bay cut.
Easy to say in hindsight, I know.
Easy to say in hindsight, I know.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Bore-cut and back-strap release cut.
theTreeSpyder
TreeHouser
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2016
- Messages
- 691
Hinge thickness is response to load pull.
>>get thicker hinge with fake wedge or rope forces to thicker hinge with forward direction part of force volume.
The greater hinge pull/ rooster tail side should be the fatter side of hinge as Dent's offside , leveraged ballast against opposing side lean is how I see/say it.
.
This tree had very large leveraged angle multiplier as lean.
Folding straight down feeds directly into greatest gravity pull.
Folding to side 45degrees is less direct force by ~30%
AND provides more vertical column in hinge against the vertical gravity force.
.
Boring, Coos, sudden trigger release to me are more 'throw' quick, like speeding back cut of relief with less competing material
vs. light fold.
Each having own great dynamics; simply choose weapon.
Without face, Coos must be kept moving to roll, not settle across like Dutchman. But to qualify as Dutch would think need open face to build speed multiplier , into hard face SLAM, of again hard charging force to get the response back. But again as with Coos a hard throwing, not soft, dainty, unnconfident nor settling to extrude desired result.
.
Congratulations!
>>get thicker hinge with fake wedge or rope forces to thicker hinge with forward direction part of force volume.
The greater hinge pull/ rooster tail side should be the fatter side of hinge as Dent's offside , leveraged ballast against opposing side lean is how I see/say it.
.
This tree had very large leveraged angle multiplier as lean.
Folding straight down feeds directly into greatest gravity pull.
Folding to side 45degrees is less direct force by ~30%
AND provides more vertical column in hinge against the vertical gravity force.
.
Boring, Coos, sudden trigger release to me are more 'throw' quick, like speeding back cut of relief with less competing material
vs. light fold.
Each having own great dynamics; simply choose weapon.
Without face, Coos must be kept moving to roll, not settle across like Dutchman. But to qualify as Dutch would think need open face to build speed multiplier , into hard face SLAM, of again hard charging force to get the response back. But again as with Coos a hard throwing, not soft, dainty, unnconfident nor settling to extrude desired result.
.
Congratulations!
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Burnham
Woods walker
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #21
@Tree09 only some places. Many are too soft. Homeowner got it stuck in the alkali off the road.
@SeanKroll @Burnham I wasn’t about to try to bore cut that thing with an aggressive 36” .404 chain on the ported 395 I use for firewooding dry Euc. I chained it to prevent barberchairing, and I kinda wanted to see the snap crackle pop anyway. It was a good show. I didn’t start the vid until about 15 seconds in. Could feet it in the ground.
@SeanKroll @Burnham I wasn’t about to try to bore cut that thing with an aggressive 36” .404 chain on the ported 395 I use for firewooding dry Euc. I chained it to prevent barberchairing, and I kinda wanted to see the snap crackle pop anyway. It was a good show. I didn’t start the vid until about 15 seconds in. Could feet it in the ground.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #22
I think I also thought that a trigger would make things happen very quickly and I didn’t want to be close when they did. With so much tension on it, I’d be afraid the back strap might explode off the tree before I was ready….it was starting to before I ever started cutting. As it was, it was nice and slow and I had plenty of time to get away and be facing it instead of running with my back to it and stuff possibly flying at me.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #23
A big question I will always have if if we could have just cut the pine and if it would have come down without cutting the elms (ashes?). One (on the right side) was already mostly dead and the center one was right under multiple limbs on the pine, so it would have gotten wrecked. Could have pieced it down but the HO did not want to fool around all day and the lift is down anyway.
davidwyby
Desert Beaver
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #24
More of the story. I wished I’d brought my 36” bar with a less aggressive 3/8” chain. You can hear the grabbiness in the saw.
Watching this again, I think I answered my question…the elms had to go. The pine went once the left elm went.
The pine had two large limbs right in the vee of the elm and would have either gotten stuck or split it in half.
Watching this again, I think I answered my question…the elms had to go. The pine went once the left elm went.
The pine had two large limbs right in the vee of the elm and would have either gotten stuck or split it in half.
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