Weight limitations?

Treeaddict

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Harford county MD
Thinking about getting this kit. I currently don’t have any rigging gear and need to learn& practice this aspect of tree work for removals and pruning. Would this kit be acceptable for 300-400lb branches (no shock load) and light negative rigging of the spar?
 

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Or would this be a better, more versatile kit?
 

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Kit#1

Kit#2
 
The second one doesn't show it's components, but I'd lean towards that one. If it's your starter rigging setup get something that is plenty for most jobs, add smaller stuff later
 
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Last one. Promise. Wife said if I needed anything, now’s the time because of cyber Monday. Hate to rush the decision but elated to finally get some gear! This looks like the heaviest kit and wouldn’t be too badly priced with 200’ of 1/2” rigging line
 

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For a kit, I like this...


You can swap components, and I'd change the hardware to ⅝" size. Like the block. I'd change that to the stainless CMI. It's heavier, but gives room to grow in the future. Rope can stay at ½" for now. Last day for wesspur 10% off up to $499, and 15% off $500-$999. I'd try to spend $500.
 
I'd go with half- inch True Blue for its natural crotch- ability, and elasticity.
1/2 inch block, or some 5/8" double- braid-capacity rings.
1/2" 3-strand TREEmaster with a Maasdam Continuous rope puller.


Buy 9/16 or 5/8" rope with a 5/8" block when needed.
 
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I like this set up, 150’ some times 200’ of 1/2” Stable braid with a tight eye, two ISC mini blocks with five foot and an eight foot 1/2” loopie, a 5/8” 12’ dead eye, a 5/8” a CMI stainless block, large nickel plated porty with a 12’ 3/4” dead eye, and another 12’ 3/4” dead eye.
This kit does a solid 90% of my removals, I can also go heavier with double whip tackle. All slings are tennex.
With any kit you buy or build get a large porty right off the bat. IMO.
 
Very much agree that you can set up for double-whip tackling, false or natural-crotching to double your capacity. An aerial friction device or natural-crotch friction can be run by the groundie, passed to the climber to finish the lowering.

I bought too big of gear initially.


My first loopie sling, 3/4" texex, with a 3/4" steel block. Mega overkill. 14 years in, have barely used my 5/8" rope.
Knicked my loopie forever ago, still haven't respliced it for use.
Just happen to be cleaning and came across it.


1" nylon Speedline slings and very basic biners do lots of work. Most of mine are compact, non- locking aluminum biners. Steel lockers on hand.

3-strand sucks for speedlining, but works.
 

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I made my rigging kit in 5/8+ (16 mm) from the get-go. Wwl a tad under 1 ton. Plenty strong for most of the jobs, with a good confidence to not cross the limite. But this one can be still very quickly reached with the negative rigging. It's more comfy to have a little room to work with.
The 5/8 bull rope is heavy but fits nicely in the hands, allowing a good grip on it. In the tree, there's no doubt about the rope's uses by the size's difference. It's especially important when you look over head to verify the rope's paths against the sun with all the colors turning black.
Additional benefit, you are less tempted to use your climb line for a ponctual rigging, as you inconciously feel it too thin for the task comparatively to the 5/8 bull rope.
 
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