Tree felling vids

Maybe you lack coordination Murph. If I'm trying to match cuts, they match just like that. And I'm half your age. Granted I do have logging experience, but not 10 years worth. With years and years in the tree business, I can't see how a fella doesn't make a face cut in a jiffy.
 
I don't see the big deal.
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I don't try to make the cut perfect in two cuts, unless its easy...

That would be like me saying: " On my videos I don't try to make my roundhouse kick to the head perfect unless I'm kicking a dwarf:lol:

On an instruction video, you have to make everything perfect and make it look easy.

Take a gander at Jerry's videos and you'll see what I mean.
 
Maybe you lack coordination Murph. If I'm trying to match cuts, they match just like that. And I'm half your age. Granted I do have logging experience, but not 10 years worth. With years and years in the tree business, I can't see how a fella doesn't make a face cut in a jiffy.

Its amazing isn't it... even more so the lack of understanding in the arb industry about THE NEED to match face cuts, the use of gunning lines etc.. I swear this is true... not one in ten arbs around here even understand those basics.. I know if you're from logging country that is hard to believe, but it is the state of affairs around here.. I've seen the stumps, I've worked with and had to train men with 15-20 years exp. who have worked for the top name companies in the philadelphia area, and one who had been subcontracting work to joey Cornell, lance wallace, chad brey etc.. and never had seen or heard of the use of gunning lines, nor did he think leaving a bypass was going to "matter that much"....

i can match cuts pretty well on an open face or trad. as long as the bar is longer than the hinge.. humboldts, not so much... very awkward, except on small cuts in the tree.. i can't even come close to the precision shown by tarzans brother.. he was able to cut a straight top (level) cut in one pass with the hinge 1.5x the bar.. I've never even tried to do that... then he matched on the angled cut in one pass, all while smiling for the camera... Is there any arb here (without logging experience) that can do that on a 40" tree?

I'd bet $$$ on no... That kid of speed and precision are great, but not necessary in suburban work.. its just not that important to shave seconds on big falling cuts, because they are so rare. We put (3) 44"+ oaks on the ground on friday, then a large twin lead tulip on saturday and cleaned up the mess.. That's 5 face cuts in 2 days, with a lot more work still to do to grind stumps, clean up and replace with topsoil.. the rest of this week might have one or two large trees, lots of pruning, small trees, stumps etc. so that'll be 7 large face cuts in a week... So a few extra seconds to cut the face doesn't matter to me... especially when I Am dropping trees that other companies would be climbing or using the crane..
 
I can't do it either, Daniel.

I only use the Humboldt when taking tops out of trees, so cutting a big one is beyond me.

They would be kinda hard to use with the extremely low stumps that we are required to set.

On the traditional I can keep it down to having to recut one in a hundred or less.

I've been teaching apprentices for over 20 years, and when you teach, you have to strive for perfection.
On stuff like that, I'm very hard on the kids. Learn to do it right or go get an office job.
It works, too. Every single one I have taught have a job in the tree industry today:)

So if I come off as a hardnose about the small stuff, it is simply because I have to be like that every day to keep the lads on their toes..
 
Sounds like you owe someone an apology then!

You are way behind, Murph.

We have already apologized to each other.:)

But why would the principle be different, just because I don't use a Humboldt in my daily work?
 
I learned precision falling on the Main Line Murphy. There's some skilled men around there. I come from there. I didn't learn precision falling while logging. I did learn to do it quicker though.
 
The discussion here is more like precision comes from your mind, as in teaching it. In most manual skills it comes from your body and 'feel', out of experience and if you were lucky to have started young enough to orient to the work in a resilient way when first beginning to learn. Techniques do help, but not the main logic in the matter. Quitting school at 13 and going to work, sets you on a good path to perfection. Who can be so lucky these days? I think it is against the law now too.
 
Just for shats and giggles :D
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See how long before You Tube yanks it :lol:
 
I've never understood making the diagonal cut first on the face cut? Doing it that way, aren't you limited to the 'gun' you put the saw in at... By doing the horizontal cut first, you can adjust the 'gun' before making the diagonal cut. Lines up easy, in the direction you want it to go.
 
Yes Stig..
The diagonal cut was second. Rob started the video late and I was just touching up the face a tad after the diagonal cut. The video actually started at the beginning of the diagonal after the gunning cut was made.
I can do it either way. But I usually do my horizontal cut first.
 
I often make my angled cut first. Not always. Over time I got accustomed to doing it, and very rarely do I have to make adjustments. When I went to work logging, the workmans comp insurance company was brutal. They insisted all felling cuts be an open face notch, followed with a bore cut. Their research showed that to be the safest method. How true that is, I don't know. For awhile I complied. Especially because the insurance agent liked to come and visit the woods on occasion and made it a point to look over some stumps to be sure we were complying. If not, I could lose my job. My point is that with an open face notch, you are pretty much forced to start with an angled cut. As a result, I got good at taking aim from square one with the angled cut. Plus, the saws have gunning sights on top usually and that helps.
 
I've never understood making the diagonal cut first on the face cut? Doing it that way, aren't you limited to the 'gun' you put the saw in at... By doing the horizontal cut first, you can adjust the 'gun' before making the diagonal cut. Lines up easy, in the direction you want it to go.

You can adjust the gun also when making the angled cut first. It's an altogether different process, but once you get good at getting it right the first time, it seldom comes into play.
 
I guess they are in Switzerland , very close to the italian border.
Nice little toy.

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Thanks for posting that...I have read of jacks before but not seen them used.

Silvey tree jacks are made just for jacking trees. Each ram is capable of 62 tons. In the following video, we used 4 rams:

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Honestly, on trees that small it is a waste of time to have to cut a jack seat instead of just using wedges.
Unless you need to lift one a whole lot to tip it over, which was not the case.

I am of course referring to the Swiss Norway spruces and not Cory's redwood:lol:
 
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