Tips for keeping long bars level

[rangerdanger]

Just wondering if you guys and gals with more experience than I with long bars(say 30" and up) have tips for keeping them level during cuts. Mainly its the back cuts that I have a bit of trouble with. Nothing too major, most of the time its a slight up or down slope for me.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Just keep the bars dressed proper, and run semi skip or full skip. Slice and dice!

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Most trees, even on a slope, will try to grow straight up unless there is too much competition. Use your gunning sight on the top cover to line up with the stem until you get the "feel" of it with experience. With a long bar, you will either under or over compensate for the bars weight until your muscles learn the position and motion. Best I can explain it.
Even on a leaner, you probably want to be perpendicular to the grain anyway

 

[Tucker943]

Experience.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Yep, experience goes a long way, with muscle memory.

Start your cut, and bit, and stop to check to see that you are doing it right. If not cut. If you've only cut in a 1/2 inch to an inch, you shouldn't have problems wedging the tree over if you're wedging. If you go deeper, you loose some wedging wood.

 

[pete mctree]

Experience & not rushing. Take your time - saw a kerf with a smaller saw if that's easier & then use the bigger saw to complete the cut

 

[flushcut]

Big bar = big tree right? The easiest way to make sure your backcut is level to the undercut is to walk the saw around the back of the tree making a very shallow cut just to hold the bar. That way you can make adjustments if needed without cutting too much wood. I hope that makes sense if not please refer to Fundamentals Of General Tree Work.

 

[MasterBlaster]

That's the way (uh-huh, uh-huh) I do it!

 

[lumberjack]

I just hold it level. One thing that helped me was when someone said to picture a marble or bearing sitting on the bar, try to balance it when you're lining up.

 

[wiley_p]

Keep the saw level. Use your dogs.

 

[Burnham]

Yup.

 

[tophopper]

I use a bubble level.......






not

 

[squisher]

I don't either. But if you're really having trouble with it I would recommend it, a bubble level that is. You can also always start the backcut with a smaller bar/chain if you'd like.

 

[rangerdanger]

Thanks guys. It's not a huge problem for me, just one of those little things u notice after falling a tree and looking at the stump. I've gotten to the point where I take my time with it all, and double check everything. Figured experience and muscle memory were the keys to it.

 

[Burnham]

You might want to read through this thread, Adrian. Some of the same issues discussed could be going on for you, too.

https://www.masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?14408-Level-Stumps-on-Steep-Ground

 

[squisher]

Great link B. One of the city arborists here, a super nice guy is Gord's cousin I believe it is. Gord is one of the few t-housers I've met. Super mellow guy, his treework doesn't look so mellow though.

 

[Magnus]

I find most who has trouble with uneven bars have uneven bars for a reason.

A sharper side than the other or wrong setting on rider..

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Are you more likely to be tip low or tip high? Try to be aware if you're consistent in this way. and adjust.

Are you making your cuts with your best possible ergonomics?

 

[woodworkingboy]

Adrian, you're still very young. As you get older it tends to even you out.

 

[GASoline71]

Keep the saw level. Use your dogs.

This ^^^

Gary

 

[Marc-Antoine]

I use a 46" bar on a 3120xp time to time. Indeed, leveling this bar isn't easy (I don't say it's really easy with the shorter bars though). The bar bends under it's own weight and the "eye's level" and "muscle's level" are both lost. It's difficult to hold the bar on a very small kerf, straightening the bar and saw, and put all level. The diagonal cut in the face is the worst because of the gunning sight at the same time, just at the cut's start.

 

[squisher]

As was mentioned earlier I believe. If the cuts are crucial, start them with a smaller saw/bar.

 

[Al Smith]

That 50 year old 48" bar on the saw in my avatar doesn't bend at all .Heavy duty Judy that one .

 

[SouthSoundTree]

As was mentioned earlier I believe. If the cuts are crucial, start them with a smaller saw/bar.

I call that a pilot kerf, like drilling a pilot hole.

 

[Burnham]

I never had any significant difficulty with bar droop when I ran the 42 inch on my 084, only when I stepped up to the 60 inch. Definitely a guide kerf can help when you are in that range, but the technique used to counter droop without a guide kerf is to hang the bar on the bark about 2/3 the way out to the tip and let the weight of the saw bear down on the bar until it's straight and level, then squirt the throttle to get started...might take a try or two to get the kerf deep enough to hold the bar well.