Timber Framing

I dunno about the insulation properties of log homes. I think pine is only about R1 per inch. Code here now is R21 walls, and I think R39 roof.
 
I like log houses, but all that wood makes my head spin sometimes. if I was going to build one, I think I'd get the squared off logs and sheet rock the inside. It's easier to interior design with finished walls.

Sheetrock or plaster from the floor to chair rail height looks nice. I agree all wood is sometimes too much.
 
I sawed a ton of quarter-sawn sycamore for a guy. He was going to panel an entire room with it, walls and ceiling. A friend of mine said it was going to look like the inside of a woodpecker's nest.:lol:
 
Or like living in a cigar box. I like the idea of wood paneling up to about 3 foot up the wall, with a shalf to top it off, then plasterboard.
 
Stopped in to get a couple of shots of the final product. I sawed out the materials for the roof and my friend Andy and his helper Matt installed it. The rafters are 4x7 ash and the decking is 2x hemlock. Looks really good with the roof on.

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No, they are collar ties. The one on the gable will also support the little bit of siding that is going to be there. There isn't gong to be much thrust on the plate due to the three pitch roof, so the collars don't need to be very robust. I suspect the collars will also be used for lighting/wiring fixtures as well.
 
Decided to put a roof over my firewood. Making a simple frame to hold it up and remembering how much I enjoy working on timberframes.

Nice to have a shop to work in Brendon, and a wheel loader, knuckle boom, mortiser and shit loads of logs:P
 

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I like that trestle/horse. I'm going to build one of those this fall before I start the next Dutch barn. Much better than 2x horses. Is that a J-head in the background?
 
J-head?? You talking about the bridgeport mill?? I have been very fortunate and have been at the right time at the right place a few times, somebody I knows business decided to shut down their fab. shop, he was gutted. Their lease was up and they had to move that mill and nobody could pick it up... My Knuckle boom could and it drove it to my shop:D

Better to be lucky than rich;)
 
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  • #138
Well,

The framing chisels are back in my possession, finally sharpened. Boring machine arrived today with two boring bits. Just gotta pick up a mallet, or make one up, and I'll be starting some 5x5 oak saw horses.

Yaaa baby, hopefully a cure for winter depression!
 
Brendon, can you post a pick of the boring machine? Just wondering if it's is similar to what is used over here? I have a couple hollow chisel mortisers. One is free standing, more a furniture maker's machine, and the other sits directly on the timbers. I only have used the timber mortiser once, when making a sign for a gallery, and wanted to drill some mortises in a couple railroad ties. It worked out great. I didn't feature hand chopping holes in old creosote embedded ties....hard on chisels. A carpenter friend had the extra machine and wasn't using it, so he kindly gave it to me.

It's good to learn the different degrees of fit with mortise and tenons. You will no doubt teach yourself as you go along. Aim for the perfect fit, it feels real satisfying when you assemble.
 
That machine looks like its in good shape. Do you have plans for the horses? I must have mentioned that there are several different styles over at the Forestry Forum kicking around.
 
I agree that Oak would be a poor choice for saw horses, due to the weight. If you don't move them around much it would be ok, or kick them around when hefting some weighty lumber and want to move the horse. My fir horses are still going strong after more than twenty-five years.
 
For some things it's mighty nice to have a set of horses that stay put right where you set them, without bouncing around when the work piece gets shoved or banged on.
 
You really want heavy horses when paring, especially with the slick. I've got 5 sets of hemlock and ply, 3 or 4 sets of folding tin, and some very scary old 2x horses in the shop. I need to build some really heavy ones just for working horses, the others are just for getting stuff up high enough to measure them.
 
Material is secondary to design.
Fir and pine can be plenty 'strong' enough, if the design allows for rigidity and weight-bearing capacity.
I'd vote for easier-to-move and rock-steady-by-design.
 
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  • #150
I voted the free wood. They will be heavy, but they can disappear with gas and a match if I get tired of them.

Mortised a foot this morning. I'm slow, took a while, and worked a sweat. Sure sucked trying to bore a hole in a 19" long piece of wood.

Dave, what's the trick of getting the bit back out through the bored hole? It's got reverse but I had a bear of a time.
 
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