The Official Work Pictures Thread

Here is a picture of my double bridge setup, HH on DMM Focus swivel (SRT), lanyard on DMM Nexus swivel (DdRT). Big shackle will hold two connectors easily, small shackle will only hold one, as will the fixed green side of the Focus.
Now I have no worries about any of my swivels 'bending' over a branch, they flex in all the right directions.
Really liking that I have no more twists in my line or get stuck with my HH backwards when I turn around, and they are smooth and slick!
 

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One oak was a pretty serious back leaner (at least for me). It had big limb/lead that was 180* out from where we wanted to fell it. Herb suggested we could get the Bobcat to get the whole tree moving, top and all, and just fell it. I was concerned that as it started moving on the hinge the two leads in the top might cause the tree to spin on the hinge and then we would have a cluster fook. I went up and took out those two leads and that just left a manageable spar. The biggest back leaning lead was about 40 degrees off vertical, a pretty good lean. I was hesitant to just face it and fell it. I used a Coos Bay cut to handle that lean...worked well, no ripping/splitting. I was a bit concerned that if my cuts didn't match properly it might snatch the saw...work positioning made it hard to be sure they were all in the same plane.
 

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That doesn't look exactly like Gerry's CB cut in FGTW, can you tell me the order of those 3 cuts? Thanks.
 
Direction of lean was 12 o'clock. I was at 9 o'clock. I reached around to 3 o'clock and cut in from 3 to 12 o'clock. That made a straight line connecting 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock points. Then came back to my side and cut from 9 to 12 o'clock. My 2 cuts then met at 12. I made a backcut starting at 6 o'clock and parallel to the 3 to 9 line. As I backcut the triangle of uncut wood got smaller until the limb popped off leaving that post. Make sense? I posted it to get some feedback so backfeed.
 
Nicely done Gary. What was the diameter on that limb? I'll use that cut on smaller hardleaning tops and a bore cut on the bigger ones.
IMG_1403.jpg
This was one I used a bore cut on. Really thin hinge because everything was frozen and red oak can split real easy.
 
About 9-10 inch diameter.

So you face cut, bore to set the hinge and then trip it from the back?

And trip from below the plane of the bore cut?
 
Yes sir. I trip from below to keep from getting my saw snatched if I overcut one side. If I remember right, that cut was around 12".
 
Jed said:
the best of this world's art is simply SQUANDERED on pragmatic clods like yourself.

...is a hopeless atavism.
Click to expand...

Indeed, Jed cranking out the high level prose. Atavism is a great word I first learned in Hunter Thompson's Fear and Loathing in LV.

Now, I believe I explained my position on Jed's pics, but that 'pragmatic clod' crack....ya know, that just might fit.:|::lol:
 
I face-cut leaners as shallow as reasonable, to reduce undermining, avoiding increasing internal pressures. Also, I'll cut the corners of the hinge. This forms a wood 'binder", as the wood above and below the corners of the hinge are not being bent by the hinge.

For an aerial Coos Bay cut, I'll cut the sapwood on the underside below the Coos Bay cut, with a couple seperate kerfs, offset from one another. That is, above my lanyard, below the location where I'll cut a Coos Bay, I'll cut 3" up from my lanyard from 3:00 to 6:00 shallowly, 6 inches above my lanyard I'll cut from 5:00 to 8:00, and 9" above my lanyard I'll cut from 6:00 to 9:00.

For the Coos Bay, I'll back-chain the far side of the tree as deep as needed, then roll the saw, back-chaining shallowly over the top. I'll turn the saw over to the bottom of the bar, cutting and rolling a bit from top to side, keeping cuts in one plane. Rev it up and blow through the back cut. The more the bar to extends beyond the strip of holding wood, the more chance to get out of the single plane, and have a saw snatcher.



Sometimes with less heavy learners, I'll cut a compression/underside kerf, roll to the side, top, and other side, leaving a rectangular strip of holding wood, then cut fast on the back cut, as with a standard Coos Bay.
 
Jed, wasn't being a smart ass. Seemed likely to have pressure points. Plywood under cookies would have taken the blow, maybe.
 
I usually put a chain around them, below and above the face cut.
Then just procede to fall them as I would any normal tree.
Nothing they can do about it, since the chain prevents them from splitting.
 
pantheraba said:
Direction of lean was 12 o'clock. I was at 9 o'clock. I reached around to 3 o'clock and cut in from 3 to 12 o'clock. That made a straight line connecting 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock points. Then came back to my side and cut from 9 to 12 o'clock. My 2 cuts then met at 12. I made a backcut starting at 6 o'clock and parallel to the 3 to 9 line. As I backcut the triangle of uncut wood got smaller until the limb popped off leaving that post. Make sense? I posted it to get some feedback so backfeed.
Click to expand...


Does this description match the picture? Pic looks like it released towards 6 o'clock after starting the backcut at 12 o'clock and parallel to the 3 and 9 line?
 
Coos bay up in the tree? Ya'll are braver than me!

Did a consult Friday, "how much more can we cut on these 2 ash trees? This brick wall has to go and the footing below it. Oh, and that big root can't be under the new wall. Oh yeah, and we have to dig these gas meters out abdicate replace them".... "cut them down? No, we'll just take the risk" .....
20161216_110826.jpg 20161216_112426.jpg 20161216_112304.jpg 20161216_111906.jpg 20161216_112251.jpg
 
pantheraba said:
And this is where we dropped the spar:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BxHQagmOy5o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Click to expand...

I'm more of fan of setting the hinge up as 'right' as possibly, supported by wedges, then pulling, while watching, and cutting more as needed. If the hinge is too thick, you can split the tree. As the pull is initiated/ progressed, you can see the split start to develop sometimes. Stop pulling/ easing tension a bit and/ or cut it fast, without compromising the hinge.


Gary, I might be off-track here, but want to say something as Herb is in the safe position (provided you have enough rope length). You were the one in the dangerous situation.
Is Herb an equipment operator working on the jobsite? Too often equipment operators want to 'do something' and 'help' being used to having power. "I wanted to help you pull the tree over"... while you were cutting, and I split it and killed you.

Yes, pull trees require power, but more than power, understanding the whole situation and judiciously applying power. Does he understand wood fiber? Hinges? I don't trust people ready to 'just get it done', rushing to make it happen. This kills people. I have employees and formerly co-workers who where ready to 'do something', including screw the pooch, because they didn't understand the situation. Herb is in the safe position (provided you have enough rope length). You were the one in the dangerous situation.





What do you mean about a limb causing it to spin on the stump? Do you mean after the hinge breaks, it might go with the gravity of the side-leaning limb?
 
Bermy said:
Here is a picture of my double bridge setup, HH on DMM Focus swivel (SRT), lanyard on DMM Nexus swivel (DdRT). Big shackle will hold two connectors easily, small shackle will only hold one, as will the fixed green side of the Focus.
Now I have no worries about any of my swivels 'bending' over a branch, they flex in all the right directions.
Really liking that I have no more twists in my line or get stuck with my HH backwards when I turn around, and they are smooth and slick!
Click to expand...

Were you using rings on your bridge before?
 
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