I made like you would fold up one of the 4 strand plastic bracelet thingys from when we were kids. I dont know what its called, I folded two across the center of the others and then just kept doing that?
Jeez the 3/4's has a minimum break of 22,000 lbs and an average break @ 24,000. The rings are somewhere near 30,000lbs according the manufacturer.
Using the tenex in a basket config pushes the break strength way up, so even with any 'loss', the fail point should be well over a porta wrap. They way I see it the heaviest load I will use it for would be lifting with the GRCS and I would feel comfortable taking it to the limit of that at around 3000lbs.
For dynamic rigging it becomes a question of bend radius and heat build-up. I dont intend to use it for any major 'negative' rigging, especially if the load will be snubbed off or not allowed to run. Its difficult for me to put a number on what it would/could handle, but I have a hard time seeing it fail with a 500-1000lb limb on it.
I dont see this as a block replacement for huge takedowns, just a quick way to set a low friction rigging point whether climbing, in the bucket, or using the throwline.
I have 3/4" and 5/8" blocks, a Pinto RIG set up on a 'U-Saver' type rig, and now this. I dont envision needing much else.
David gave me three rings, 2 I spliced here and one I just tied to a piece of old climbing line and gave to the guy I work with. We already used that one as a sole rigging point and were dropping good 200lb logs on it and swinging them out.
I'm working on a couple XRR projects. I just got a dead eye one done, it's my first splice ever. I did a locking brumel, with a 2 fid bury. It came out b- I would say. I kept adjusting the eye, because I couldn't get the ring to slip in, so some of the strands are unevenly tensioned. That being said, have any of you found the measurement that fits the large XRR perfectly?
PPS. I'm using 3/4" Tenex tec. I just tried adding 2", or about 3 pairs of strands, it feels a wee bit too easy to get the ring in. I think it would probably stay, but last time I really had to work it in, so I'm gonna try going a little tighter.
So I settled with 7 1/2". I am however having trouble getting the bury to stay tight. It seems even if I pull it hard into the sling opposite the ring, and carefully milk it from the ring out, it will look good for a minute, but when the splice gets moved around as I mock hitch it to an object it pulls out just a tad, enough that the ring sits crooked. Maybe it will straighten out with a load, but it seems like the brummel will take the load instead of the bury. Any advice? I'm not familiar with splicing terminology, I could get a picture if you guys need it.
Evan- in a locked Brummell splice, the Brummell is SUPPOSED to take the load. The Brummell IS the splice. You could shorten up the bury quite a bit if you felt so inclined.
After finishing the splice, how did you lock stitch it? You have to do some sort of stitching before you start tying knots with the sling.
You sortof don't need the eye size measurement. Just poke the tail through the standing end of the rope, pull it tight, then send the standing end through tail as close to the eye as you can.
Nick- Thanks for asking about the lock stitching. I had not, and was not planning to, do to some reading that lead me to believe that the brummel was a good substitute. I didn't order any whipping twine, will throw line work well? Unless you've got a better approach, I've been using samson's guides for the splicing and they've got one on lock stitching too.
None of the slings I have bought, one from wesspur, and one from sherril are lock stitched...
I think I went about the brummel the hard way. I did it as if I only had access to one end of the rope, because I was working off a longer piece. As far as I can tell, and I haven't it, I had to have everything but the final bury constructed before I could put the ring in. I can picture it being different if I had both ends of the rope to work with,
Starting from the left or bottom side was my first splice, 2 full fid bury, the second has about 1.5 fids, with an smoother taper. The taper according to samsons specs didn't seem as smooth as spreading out the threads you pull over a longer area. EDIT-The two x-ring slings are dead eye. The third on the right is a seperate loopie sling.
One final question for now. According to something I read, the straight bury is considered stronger, has that been disproven? If so, how come everything(nearsighted blanket statement) that is sold is brummeled. My assumption is that they forgo the lock stitch and it makes for a quicker splice... It also saves a bit of rope with the shorted bury.
10-4, at this point I don't want to do anything till I get the best procedure. Pulling out the splice seems that I'm gonna loose the braid, and I had some trouble keeping it together before... I was having to teach myself 4 and 6 strand braids. Well, study them rather.
You HAVE to lock stitch it. Tell whoever you were talking to that a locked brummell is no substitute for a stitching. The stitching is essential, as your pictures show.
Nah- the distance from the brummel to the tuck is alright. I personally like it closer, but that's just style. The prob is that he. flexed the splice before it got stitched.
Are you sure? Let's see some pics! I do stitching in a way that it is invisible to the untrained eye. I call it the Nearly Invisible Cover Core Stitch Method. Regardless of Sherrill and Wesspur, you HAVE to stitch.
I think it will make it easier you on if you just go ahead and do a standard locking brummell and just run the whole 100' through the splice. You'll get a better finished product. Were you forming the eye then popping the ring into the eye? Doing it the "standard" way will save you from pesky measurements.
One final question for now. According to something I read, the straight bury is considered stronger, has that been disproven? If so, how come everything(nearsighted blanket statement) that is sold is brummeled. My assumption is that they forgo the lock stitch and it makes for a quicker splice... It also saves a bit of rope with the shorted bury.
Straight bury IS stronger than a locked brummell usually. But only like 5-10%. The brummell provides a lot more security and for the average tree guy, there's less risk if they have more security vs. more strength.
Strength isn't everything...or at least that's what I tell myself when I try to see how many pushups I can do.
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