questions about class 1 stablebraid eye splice

[WoodCutr]

so, was shooting for a 6" splice and got 4", is the extra burry an issue?

also, are these pulled fibers an issue?
probably wont lockstitch the splice, every time ive done that to rigging the stitch has been ripped out on the first use (I should probably do better)

 

[Tree09]

If those strands were cut, would you still use it? And what's the bury length for that size rope?

 

[WoodCutr]

not sure the burry length, but 1 fid is 11"
and yes, I would probably still use it if those strands were cut, will go load test and see if they are still loose under load

 

[WoodCutr]

load tested to about 750# and it didnt slip any, tested some new slings for he heck of it, all good, not worried about the loose strands they seem like they will work in soon

 

[flushcut]

Can you follow those strands and pull/massage them back into place evening out the bubble?

 

[WoodCutr]

Can you follow those strands and pull/massage them back into place evening out the bubble?

when I do all I get is moving the strands down the rope, I will probably get some large heatshring to go over the splice anyways, neaten it up and make it more snag free

 

[ruel]

Looks kinda bad to me, little divot on the start of the eye looks like a bad crossover. Do it again IMO, it's good practice

 

[WoodCutr]

load tested and it seems fine, didnt slip any, the whole splice cleaned up under 750#, id call it good, if its critical I always use a running bow, so I can just swap ends or tie the RB with a long enough tail to have the splice out of the knot

 

[Burnham]

Looks kinda bad to me, little divot on the start of the eye looks like a bad crossover. Do it again IMO, it's good practice

This I am in complete agreement with.

 

[ruel]

If it's a different length than you intended, something went wrong in the process. consider it a learning opportunity that only cost a few feet of rope and some time

I really don't understand the attitude of "I can just not use it if critical". If you Don't carry/ have questionable gear, you won't use questionable gear. "Fine Sometimes" thinking is a bad habit in this line of work.

 

[Burnham]

Again, in complete agreement...and I could not have worded it better.

 

[SkwerI]

Double braid is the only style rope I can splice. I made my own rigging slings for years. A lot of my early ones were ugly/defective but I got better with repetition. Dressing the crossover is especially important, as that is the main strength of the splice. The instruction sheet I use doesn't stress it but I discovered that the better my crossover was dressed, the better my splice came out.

 

[ruel]

the better my crossover was dressed, the better my splice came out.

Yes, this. I learned a good trick to keep the crossover in good shape while burying it. After pulling the core and cover tails tight, smooth the splice startingat the crossover working out. This will suck the tails back in. Once that is all nice and smooth, take one cut stand from the cover taper and stitch THROUGH the crossover, maybe 3 rope diameters on either side.

This holds everything in place while running the splice home, and makes double braid splices more consistent and easier

 

[flushcut]

Pull it apart and redo. You need the practice. 😂

 

[WoodCutr]

Pull it apart and redo. You need the practice. 😂

nah, ive done enough doublebraid splices at this point, 10 or 15, one of them even being my own lanyard lol

like I said, I load tested it, its good, not worried about a few little lumps and bumps, not re doing 45 minutes of work just because one strand is a tiny bit out of whack and would fix itself in the first 3 uses anyways

 

[Marc-Antoine]

- If your lockstictches used to get ripped first use, something is wrong on the making and the splice moves. Maybe just settling and it's fine after that, but it should hold fully at the process's end.
- I never came across a case where my burry went too far. Usually, it's a fight to slide the rope back in place, excepted for the rigging lines, easier than the climb lines.
-A fid of 11" gives a diameter's rope a tad over 1/2" (13.3mm). But on your pic, the rope looks way over that, more like 20mm. If it's around this value, your fid should be about 16.5" (= 21 x rope's diam).
- As far as testing, your load value seems a bit ligh to me for a rigging line. If my gessing about the rope's diameter is right, the expected load should aim well over 1 ton (2200lbs) as this's around the wll for a 5/8" rope.
Jumping imperial-metric sucks.

Lastly, try to never carry a "ligh-use" item in your gear. One day you will use it for a "limite" case because that's the only choice you have. Gear at home, complex rigging, damaged rope ... we can only guess, but that's almost mandatory. Stay safe and carry good gear that you can fully trust.

 

[WoodCutr]

If your lockstictches used to get ripped first use, something is wrong on the making and the splice moves. Maybe just settling and it's fine after that, but it should hold fully at the process's end.

the stitches were being cut on bark

the rope is 1/2" stablebraid

 

[WoodCutr]

Lastly, try to never carry a "ligh-use" item in your gear. One day you will use it for a "limite" case because that's the only choice you have. Gear at home, complex rigging, damaged rope ... we can only guess, but that's almost mandatory. Stay safe and carry good gear that you can fully trust.

wiser words may have never been said
I try to keep everything rated fairly high, so no matter what I can grab something and not question weather or not it will hold

 

[stig]

I like that post, too.
Well said.

 

[WoodCutr]

what use is owning rigging if you only get to use it once? buy something that will get the job done every time

as I found out, my 60-70ft trueblue line isnt good for rigging, cant even lower stuff from 30ft, the 200ft should be enough unless im doing double whip rigging from 70+ft

 

[Tommy_B]

nah, ive done enough doublebraid splices at this point, 10 or 15, one of them even being my own lanyard lol

like I said, I load tested it, its good, not worried about a few little lumps and bumps, not re doing 45 minutes of work just because one strand is a tiny bit out of whack and would fix itself in the first 3 uses anyways

I don't mean any offence when I say this, but this is the polar opposite of what you should be thinking when you're splicing, especially if you're doing life support splices.

Your life, or more importantly someone else's life or property, isn't worth more than 45 minutes of your time. If a splice isn't perfect, then cut it off and do it again. There isn't any middle ground. It can't be nearly right or close imo.

Like I said, not trying to offend but I've done one or two splices so feel qualified to chime in.

Stay safe mate

 

[WoodCutr]

id consider the splice within my acceptable level, and if there is something super big or critical (large chunks directly over a house for example) I use a running bowline, its just the best there ever has been IMO if you want something strong that wont budge
the line has an ABS of 10400, assuming my splice is anywhere near that strong, I will never reach the MBS, all my rigging is below 5K anyways as I try not to negative rig big chunks, and I do more pulling/lifting with my lines than lowering (comeallong or 5:1)

 

[stig]

A good splice is way stronger than any knot.

 

[lxskllr]

Should be just about equal to new unused rope, no?

 

[WoodCutr]

A good splice is way stronger than any knot.

yes
do I trust my splices to 10K? in an open field yes, over a customers house? no

generally I try to keep cuts small, so damage is minimal if/when something fails
ive yet to damage a house but now that I say that...