questions about class 1 stablebraid eye splice

Let me ask you a question: What’s the difference? You trust you splice in one situation but not another…? If anything I would think testing your splice in an open field would give you confidence in your ability.
 
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  • #27
Let me ask you a question: What’s the difference? You trust you splice in one situation but not another…? If anything I would think testing your splice in an open field would give you confidence in your ability.
the difference is, in an open field if it fails im not sticking a tree through a house, get what im saying?

im sure the splice is fine, passed my load test, will test it hard on the next job I do and update with what I find
 
I can see both points, but I tend to favor the 'everything should be first rate' school of thought. When I paddled whitewater, I only carried rated non locking biners(One screw lock to fit the back of my rescue pdf if needed). It was common practice for people to use toy biners for the paddle, or to clip supplies to the boat. I wanted to know that anything I grabbed in a rescue situation would be fit for the task, and I wouldn't have to think about it.
 
what use is owning rigging if you only get to use it once? buy something that will get the job done every time

as I found out, my 60-70ft trueblue line isnt good for rigging, cant even lower stuff from 30ft, the 200ft should be enough unless im doing double whip rigging from 70+ft
Ha! My most-used rigging line is a 75' piece of Arbor Plex! (But then I'm natural-crotch/self-lowering most of the time).
 
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  • #40
short line has its place, and I use the heck out of that trueblue, BUT, the only place I get to use it is pulling, cant lower much with it, and its too stretchy for pulling

if I were rigging limbs off saplings like you the 75 might be ok :p
 
I don't think stretchy is necessarily a bad thing pulling stuff, if solo you can tension up, then cut, and it will go on its own. Lifting a log in the middle does the same thing too.
 
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  • #42
well, its bad dragging a tree up a hill with a comeallong (most of the rigging ive used that rope for)
 
short line has its place, and I use the heck out of that trueblue, BUT, the only place I get to use it is pulling, cant lower much with it, and its too stretchy for pulling

if I were rigging limbs off saplings like you the 75 might be ok :p
Limbs off saplings, you say? I go up to 500#-600# limbs with 1/2” Arbor Plex. Beyond that I go to Stable Braid, size dependent upon need.
 
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  • #44
was talking about the height you can work with a 75ft rope, although if your solo rigging you can get about 70ft with it
 
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  • #45
ive negative rigged 2-300 pound chunks, forgot the porty self regulated friction and told my groundie to do 2 and 1/2 wraps instead of 2, locked that sumbich up solid, yeehaw
 
The reason I use a ~75’ rope is that as the piece is being lowered, the other end is coming up to you, eliminating a lot of tangles. Transition to a longer rope only after you’re above the length of that rope.
 
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  • #47
will have pics up in a minute, re did the splice with a tight eye, being more careful to not pick strands
came out good IMO
 
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  • #48
much better, and I think the tight eye will be better
yes, im getting a steel biner to use, im not rigging with an aluminum one


Open photo
Open photo
Open photo
 
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  • #50
the other one was just fine, but yall got into my head lol, and I didnt like the way it sat with a girth hitch, felt all lopsided

I like not having knots when using rings, don't have to untie a splice
 
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