I did my first splice in a piece of treemaster I use as a sling. While making the splice, I pulled the first tucks loose to inspect them, and forgot to put them back, so the finished splice has three exposed strands before it enters the main twist. Does this reduce strength by any noticeable amount? I imagine it can increase wear in a real working eye since there's more surface area to rub on hardware and whatnot. It's just a matter of curiosity. It won't happen again, and this piece is usually used in a loop tied with a zeppelin bend. I used it today fully weighted in the eye just to test it out, and it seemed to hold up well. I don't think there was any slippage.
3Strand Splice Question
- Thread starter lxskllr
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- #3
It's at work, and I never took a picture of it. Where a proper eye splice looks more or less like a normal rope with a hole in it, my twists have a break where there's three leaders going into the tucks. Probably ½"-¾" long. So there's twisted rope going around the eye, then it becomes untwisted with three straight legs going into the tuck.
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- #5
I'll get a pic tomorrow. It isn't that important. It's a wrong, bad splice. I'm just curious as to how it affects strength. It was easier to do than I expected, but I think I'd like to get a fid for splicing this stuff. I just used a marlinspike, and it was a little more hassle than it needed to be.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
To me, it sounds more like it came out as more of a crown knot/splice than a spliced eye. But pics would certainly help 
I think I've mentioned it before, a 20 invested in some natural cordage 3 strand that you can practice splices, back braids, whippings, etc is really really worth it. John, you would especially enjoy it because you like making stuff. Toggles, the Matthew walker knot, the manrope knot, the chain splice, the right angle splice, the short and long splices, grommets, rope stropped blocks; all in use for centuries and all work very very well. Learning them opens up all sorts of other related skills to explore as well, depending on what you are interested in.
Natural cordage holds its shape, while polyester like treemaster unlays if the ends aren't contained. It will have a softer lay, so you can learn the splice then fight the squid once you know the moves. Working with the strands is a different kind of skill, you have to do multiple things at once and slight variations of twist and tension make up huge differences in splice quality and ease. 3 strand is easier to do splices in than the double braids, but does get more challenging if you keep going.
Natural cordage holds its shape, while polyester like treemaster unlays if the ends aren't contained. It will have a softer lay, so you can learn the splice then fight the squid once you know the moves. Working with the strands is a different kind of skill, you have to do multiple things at once and slight variations of twist and tension make up huge differences in splice quality and ease. 3 strand is easier to do splices in than the double braids, but does get more challenging if you keep going.
I have no idea how you did that, but i think it's safe to say that one isn't good. The rope should seamlessly transform into a splice, maintaining the twist and tension of the straight rope. 5 tucks are needed on synthetic too, i can't see how many you did there.
I would say it ruins it, the splice isn't pulled tight, isn't dressed correctly, and will force the strands to unlay as it's loaded. You have to get the twist and tension right. The fact that you are asking if the strength has been compromised implies that you are considering using it for rigging, which is a hard no. Like knots, it's either right or wrong, not much middle ground. Try it again, or better yet learn the splice on something other than the hardest lay synthetic rope that money can buy. Did you put constrictor hitches on the strands before unlaying them? You have to maintain the original twist of the rope for the first few tucks since any variation makes a weak spot because that twist is what holds the rope together and equalizes the strain between all the individual fibers. Putting constrictors on the ends makes tucking them easier too
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- #12
I was asking about the strength out of curiosity. That was a proof of concept splice, but I like using the rope as loop, and not a deadeye. Aside from trying it yesterday, that splice sits outside a zeppelin bend. I had about 1.2k pounds confirmed yesterday pulling with the maasdam. Might have had more using it as a redirect with the truck, but I have no idea.
I taped the strands while splicing, but had some hockling issues. I think using a fid would help solve that.
I taped the strands while splicing, but had some hockling issues. I think using a fid would help solve that.
Try doing a constrictor knot with twine and then the tape, it'll hold the twist very securely so it won't hockle. When you do a tuck pull it very tight while twisting the strand, that will make all of the fibers assume their proper position in the splice. Do your tucks, then cut off the constrictors, fan the fibers and cut them at an angle. Then retwist as best you can and tuck the tapered strands, this will give you the nice smooth transition. Hair gel (think 1980s stuff) will help the synthetic fibers stay in place. For a complete professional job you then do a sailmakers whipping where the final tucks land, which binds the ends so they don't come out and start fraying. After it's all done throw it on the floor and roll the splice back and forth with your foot, this will roll the rope back to round and smooth everything out, which will equalize everything. A splice gains it's strength by making all the fibers carry the load, so even twist, tension, and proper position is what does that.
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
The funny curves/twist in the two strands in front (the low one is the worst) show the weak spots. The three strands don't have the same prestress by far and can't share the load. That puts an heavy dent in the safety margin.
ruel
TreeHouser
If it's really soft lay Stuff that won't hold shape, you can dip the part to be unlaid in enamel paint. Let it dry and crack the Lays Apart for the splice. did that some For the sailboat I was volunteering on. many modern lines are too soft to Lay up a rope grommet without that trick
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- #16
This is hard lay, but I'll keep that for future reference. To do this, I stuck the marlinspike in the lay, pushed it in for the full diameter of the spike, then gave it a good tug. I then eased the spike out to retain the hole, and tried to get the strand under the tuck. I usually had to poke it through a bit with the spike. The tape held up just about well enough to complete an eye splice. It was pretty tattered by the end.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Point or Port? Hudson fids are the cats ass for splicing 3 strand.
flushcut
TreeHouser
The Hudson allows you to feed the tail thru while still in the splice. It makes for a tighter splice IMO.
ruel
TreeHouser
Swedish Fid is what I think they are called. Super easy 3 strand Splices even with no tape/ frayed ends
flushcut
TreeHouser
I ordered both sizes from Wesspur. I’m kind of a tool whore that way, never have enough of them.
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- #23
I'm considering that route, and I might even order from wesspur, but there's stuff I need from amazon if I can remember what it is. I think I'll get the big one if I only go with one. While writing this, I remembered what I was doing with all this stuff. My main goal for splicing 3strand is making a flipline, and I have some ⅝" treemaster that would work well if I decide to shorten it.
Sometimes I wonder if my brain's going...
Sometimes I wonder if my brain's going...
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