Pulling a tree: Do you agree?

How do you pull?

  • Like your buddy

    Votes: 9 81.8%
  • Like MB

    Votes: 2 18.2%

  • Total voters
    11
I'm with your other guy too, Butch. Afraid the physics of the deal are inescapable. It's a case of mechanical advantage, not just your body weight.
 
I usually have it tied to something with some power,like a dozer or something that has some grunt if the thing is that large .
 
Well now that that's all said, how about the reality factor. What I mean is I have my guys well trained when it comes to pulling because I usually have a small and limited LZ so I don't have the convenience of another tree to use for any kind of leverage.

One thing that I did emphasize heavily is don't pull the rope.... run with the rope. If you pull it all your leverage is gone with one stroke, where as if you run with it you can maintain at least a little leverage for a good portion of the fall.

Anybody else do it like that?
 
Wedges you say...I actually picked up 4 yesterday, 2 10", 2 8". I'm going to start using them to experiment, maybe shave some time off over using ropes. I got a nice long handled axe I scrounged up after reading your prior threads Burn.

We'll see how the wedges work.

Just sharing. :)
 
There's no such thing as too many wedges... I've recently come to realize. Cause it sure sucks finding out you don't have enough!;)
 
I still find it hard to believe there are cutters out there that don't use wedges...no matter what your field of work, a sawyer needs wedges to handle some situations. A good sawyer can handle many felling situations without a pull line at all, given the right tools: wedges and a proper axe.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #36
Since I hardly ever get to fell trees, I never use a wedge for throwing. I bust em out when bucking big stuff or ALAPing a stump.
 
Well now that that's all said, how about the reality factor. What I mean is I have my guys well trained when it comes to pulling because I usually have a small and limited LZ so I don't have the convenience of another tree to use for any kind of leverage.

One thing that I did emphasize heavily is don't pull the rope.... run with the rope. If you pull it all your leverage is gone with one stroke, where as if you run with it you can maintain at least a little leverage for a good portion of the fall.

Anybody else do it like that?

If you're LZ be tight, wouldn't you have something to anchor to typically? It aint gotta be a tree :).

The pull vrs run... I'm pretty sure I'm not following your logic. After the piece has tipped, I'm not worried about keeping tension on the rope, however getting the rope out from under a large piece before it hits the ground is nice.
 
I lack the proper training to employ wedges around a house which is almost always my case. I trust a pull rope it just seems more mechanical advantage. I just have the guys pull the rope, if they are busy dragging bush and I need to throw a stubb but dont want to bother them, I'll use a loop runner and crab to an ajecent tree (direction of fell), trucker hitch the line mid way crab into that and purchase the slack out of the rope then secure it to the tree. walk back and finish my cut. If its big and dodgy throw and I want to make sure, I can add a pully to both crabs and make it 4 -1 with only two crabs, runt he rope thru the crab on the first pass and the second pass run it thru the pully. CHeaper than a z-rig and alot faster.
 
I lack the proper training to employ wedges around a house which is almost always my case. I trust a pull rope it just seems more mechanical advantage. I just have the guys pull the rope, if they are busy dragging bush and I need to throw a stubb but dont want to bother them, I'll use a loop runner and crab to an ajecent tree (direction of fell), trucker hitch the line mid way crab into that and purchase the slack out of the rope then secure it to the tree. walk back and finish my cut. If its big and dodgy throw and I want to make sure, I can add a pully to both crabs and make it 4 -1 with only two crabs, runt he rope thru the crab on the first pass and the second pass run it thru the pully. CHeaper than a z-rig and alot faster.

Look at what you just wrote, Robert...all that caniption with rope and biners and pulleys and not wanting to bother the groundies, when a couple of wedges and a felling axe would have it all done and taken care of.

But your point about proper training is well taken...if you don't know how to do it, you can't.
 
yah i use a hillbilly come-along alot...


I too used to use this alot at my old job, he pretty much did it to all the trees. Works great, can get alot of pull on the rope with the 3-1 ma, then tie it off...if the tree still doesn't move just throw your body weight on top and wammo.
 
Well now that that's all said, how about the reality factor. What I mean is I have my guys well trained when it comes to pulling because I usually have a small and limited LZ so I don't have the convenience of another tree to use for any kind of leverage.

One thing that I did emphasize heavily is don't pull the rope.... run with the rope. If you pull it all your leverage is gone with one stroke, where as if you run with it you can maintain at least a little leverage for a good portion of the fall.

Anybody else do it like that?

i just use the rope to commit the tree, doesnt seem to accomplish much as the tree falls faster than i can run any way:D

forgot to throw wedges in the truck i used today so i hillbillied it:D
 
The only time I used my body weight to deflect a rope and pull a tree was when I come to the end of the knot or other gizmo. It works,,, but if you have to do it you missed something.
 
The only time I used my body weight to deflect a rope and pull a tree was when I come to the end of the knot or other gizmo. It works,,, but if you have to do it you missed something.

How so Mr. B?
 
I think most people pull the way you do. However, you get MORE pulling power when you pull down on an anchored line. That's called sweating the line. If there is enough tension on the line when it is anchored, you can almost double your pulling power.

The trade off is that you can only pull as far as you can deflect the rope. Your way, you can just keep walking back, or in tight quarters you can hand-over-hand the rope. His way, if the rope is 6' above the ground, you can only pull down 6'...then you have to start going sideways.

love
nick


not quite, Nick....You pull sideways on the line.......gives gobs of power and deflection as much as needed. Similar to speedlining, the force you apply is multiplied at the ends of the line.

AH ha, as I look outside, it's snowing again...I'm 300 feet above sea level in Seattle.....Got great pics today a ways out of town where there was a lot more....pics and a thread to follow. April 18, latest snow here in 36 years...
 
Well, once again ,I'm not a tree man.I am a rigger though and really there isn't that much difference .

Do to the fact 90 perecent of the time I work alone I have came up with some of my own methods,which work .

I can wedge over a tree ,no problem .Every so often though a guy wants to be little more sure of things.Hench a pull line and a come-along .

One little trick is to tie in a 40 pound cement block somewhere in the middle of the pull line and tighten the come-along but not like a bango string . It is a sure fired bet it will direct the tree .
 
I voted like your buddy...



(I secretly wish that I too had massive guns.)
 
Er... Butch, in this case that just means that half of the voters were completely wrong.
 
Back
Top