How'd it go today?

that there is what appears to be huskie's version of 3/8 pico? unsure if theres a drive link difference between husky and stihl but the rest looks like what I run on my 194 and 200t
 
got a ? for you guys with "real" chippers (18+ capacity)

how do ya like it? my 250xp has been kinda pissing me off and I'm about at my limit as far as how much money I plan to dump into it, can't take it out of service long enough to totally restore it, thinking about snagging a used 1890xp or 19xpc and keeping the 250 as a backup to tinker on as I find time, its basically free to own but I'm thinking the payment of a 19" would quickly make up for itself just in time saved on each job and reduced trips with logs, I pay $30 to dump chips at the mulch yard, no limit on capacity, or chip drop which my 16yd truck is perfect for, whereas I pay $1-200 per load for logs at the mulch yard and they have to be under 6ft long, or $60 a ton at the landfill and it has to be firewood rounds under 24" long, huge waste of time to load wood and cut every log, especially when I cut to 6ft and find out the mulch yard closed early (they tend to do that a lot)

just for reference, I usually have 50/50% logs and chips on jobs, although kinda frequently I'm hauling 2 loads of wood for each load of chips, with a 19" chipper I'd be hauling closer to 4 loads of chips per load of logs as a lot of the work I do is either whole trees that I can chip in a 19", or whole limbs and just haul a 2-5ft diameter trunk section instead of all the limb wood

never ran anything bigger than a 250xp/12X so I'm just wanting to ask the guys that actually run bigger chippers for a living, I imagine how it'd work and I'm usually decently close to right, but this is a huge $ item if I'm wrong
 
Ran 1990, 1890 grapple , 20xp. If you are machine feeding,hp and wide opening are nice.
thats my thinking, my boxer couldn't keep up but having since upgraded, the chipper can't keep up and it hurts to watch the mini loader waste hours and hours a day moving half of what it's capable of just so the chipper isn't being over fed


the mulch yard charges $30 for any load of chips, $90-200 per load for brush and logs in a dump trailer with a 6 foot length limit, landfill is 2ft limit and $60 a ton, so the less logs I haul the better, at a $90 average difference per load of wood it doesn't take very many loads to cover the payment of the chipper, plus saved trips on most jobs because I don't have to drive 45 minutes to dump logs and come back for the machine, just chip the wood and go home early


just rough math since I don't know the exact productivity and stuff, since the big chipper only became a consideration/possibility this last few weeks, but on average it think it'd save me about 3 hours per work day in cutting and hauling, some days more, and $90/load of logs, most wood I haul is around that 12-19 inch range

assuming I work 100 days a year, we take a lot of time off when we aren't super busy, thats $76,500 a year saved, I'd pay roughly 10,000 a year for the chipper, so $66500 extra back into the company just for owning a bigger chipper


is my math making sense? please do tell me if I'm missing something, the numbers are too good to be true, or this is just why everyone wants big chippers
 
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thats my thinking, my boxer couldn't keep up but having since upgraded, the chipper can't keep up and it hurts to watch the mini loader waste hours and hours a day moving half of what it's capable of just so the chipper isn't being over fed


the mulch yard charges $30 for any load of chips, $90-200 per load for brush and logs in a dump trailer with a 6 foot length limit, landfill is 2ft limit and $60 a ton, so the less logs I haul the better, at a $90 average difference per load of wood it doesn't take very many loads to cover the payment of the chipper, plus saved trips on most jobs because I don't have to drive 45 minutes to dump logs and come back for the machine, just chip the wood and go home early


just rough math since I don't know the exact productivity and stuff, since the big chipper only became a consideration/possibility this last few weeks, but on average it think it'd save me about 3 hours per work day in cutting and hauling, some days more, and $90/load of logs, most wood I haul is around that 12-19 inch range

assuming I work 100 days a year, we take a lot of time off when we aren't super busy, thats $76,500 a year saved, I'd pay roughly 10,000 a year for the chipper, so $66500 extra back into the company just for owning a bigger chipper


is my math making sense? please do tell me if I'm missing something, the numbers are too good to be true, or this is just why everyone wants big chippers
that is how i do calculations when i want to buy something :)
 
Good news/bad news day. The good news is that I finally collected on a big job I did a month ago (for a buddy who is in jail). Was a good size job and I had a decent amount of money out because I paid for everybody and everything the day of the job. But in the last month I had a couple large, unexpected expenses. I shelled out $3000 in truck repairs and a week ago my well pump died so that was another $4000. So not having this check was really cramping my style.

So after work today I stopped at the bank to deposit it. I was in my F450 so I couldn't fit in the drive thru and had to walk inside. New teller waited on me while I chatted with Miriam, the next teller over who I have known for many years. I handed her my deposit and the first thing she wants is my ID or debit card, so I dug out my license as Miriam told her that I don't have a debit card. She was also handling the drive thru so she took my deposit back there. A few minutes later she comes back and asks me which account I want the deposit made to. I was dumbfounded! I said to deposit it in the account on the frigging deposit slip! And also written on the back of the check! She walked back to the drive thru and I said to Miriam "Is she a DEI hire?" I have NEVER had a bank teller ask me that question! Miriam just kept telling me to be nice.

When I got home I had to double check online that she didn't screw up my deposit. That was the first and last time she will ever handle my deposit.

Bad news is that I noticed a leak on my loader today. Just over 2000 hours on it now. October will be 4 years since I got it. The leak is in the return hydraulic line. I got the line ordered for less than $100 and it will be here in a few days. The hard part will be changing it. I have to pull pretty much all of the access covers as well as the floor panel in the cab. I may or may not need to remove the skid plate on the bottom of the machine. The line runs from the hydraulic pump in back (attached to the output shaft on the engine), through the U joints in the middle of the machine and up to the hydraulic tank in front. 540518034_802902499350257_7754045159270077791_n.jpg
 
started to tear into chipper wiring, turns out one of my almost new lights is out again

tear into truck wiring for a flicker, last owner just twisted 2 wires together and sent it, didn't wanna deal with splicing in a whole new section of wire so I twisted it back and taped it better, just temporary unless it works

chipper turbo oil drain tube has been leaking for 3 years, finally got the JB weld out for it, can't find an OEM Cummins drain tube thats long enough, one of these days I might make my own that actually works
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started to tear into chipper wiring, turns out one of my almost new lights is out again

tear into truck wiring for a flicker, last owner just twisted 2 wires together and sent it, didn't wanna deal with splicing in a whole new section of wire so I twisted it back and taped it better, just temporary unless it works

chipper turbo oil drain tube has been leaking for 3 years, finally got the JB weld out for it, can't find an OEM Cummins drain tube thats long enough, one of these days I might make my own that actually works
View attachment 146966
For the oil drain line, can you just pick up a couple feet of fuel line of the correct diameter at the auto parts store? That and a hose clamp may do it, depending on how the original line is attached.
 
For the oil drain line, can you just pick up a couple feet of fuel line of the correct diameter at the auto parts store? That and a hose clamp may do it, depending on how the original line is attached.
not without cutting up the old line and using the ends, which is the next step if this leaks, just gonna cut it off where it becomes corrugated and clamp some rubber hose on there, just needs to be able to withstand the heat and vibration but it should have zero pressure so I doubt it will leak
 
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