How Do You Sharpen Your Axe?

[MasterBlaster]

Please, school me. I have no idea. I'd love for mine to stick in the wood like I see all the others stick! I use mine mostly for pounding wedges...

 

[CurSedVoyce]

I use a flat file unless you need to redo the edge. Then a grinder, then flat file... Wet grinder works well too.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/JIZBwT-VDBY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

You can also buy some nice wet stones to get them razor sharp...

 

[SouthSoundTree]

I'd only have a sharp ax if I was chopping with it.

I mostly use a mill bastard file, but a grinder if its beat to hell. I used to sharpen lots of trail tools.

 

[squisher]

I don't sharpen mine at all. Work axe or my splitting maul.

 

[NickfromWI]

I do it on my Worksharp with 80 grit.


love
nick

 

[FireFighterZero]

We are not allowed to use motor driven devices to sharpen our axes. We talked about it some in the S-212 class but it was not pushed.
The state guys just have us work them with a file until they are sharp. We start on the top on the blade and work to the bottom in one smooth motion a few times and then switch sides. The guys good with a file can cut paper with them when they are done.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Like was mentioned, unless a grinder is needed, a file and oil stone should do the job. You might get a coarse stone to remove the file marks, and a finer stone to more polish the edge. If you sharpen pretty often, you may no longer much need the file. Try not to round the faces, keep the sides an acute angle. I have never seen a stone used dry like in the vid. Water or oil stones work best with lubrication. Keeps the pores clean and cuts better.

 

[Peter]

Some good info http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/axe-knowledge/caring-for-your-axe/sharpening/

 

[Gypo]

I set an axe up in a vise, with the sharp side up. Then get a good mill file with a handle and file down into the axe. Put your gloves on and be careful.

Often times the shape of the head will have a lot to do with whether the axe will stick in wood or not. Seems narrower bits stick a lot easier. The axe I usually pack will not stick in a stump. The angle of the bit is narrow, but not so narrow it will stick. This is good for chopping, as you don't waste energy "unsticking" it on every lick. If I wanna stick it in a stump, I have to stick it in the holding wood, where it will go in easier. It, like lots of tool choices, is a personal thing. I pack this axe the most because I like its size. Its actually a 2.5# hatchet, with a boys axe handle cut off at about 20", with a small ring of black tape on the end to keep my hand from sliding off. Most of the bigger axes I have are plumbs and stroh's, and most of them will stick.

Not to hijack, but if anyone has a 3# stroh they'd part with, I'm interested.

 

[squisher]

My work axe with a fresh coat. Never been sharpened. And my maul for splitting/firewood. Over 13 years old on the original handle! Never sharpened either.

 

[cory]

Excellent pics, Squish. I dig close ups like that.

My maul has a fiberglass handle, Home Depot style. Not a lot of character but highly effective and durable.

Peter, that was a cool link to the axe website.

 

[squisher]

The fiberglass handles have a bad rap in these parts. Not as durable ime as a good wooden handle. I have a huge maul as well. That goes through handles somewhat regularly it lives at my woodpile in the field. I'll try to grab some pics of it and my solution to how not to tear up a handle when knocking apart huge rounds.

 

[squisher]

Duct tape expirement on the big maul to see if it'll help the handle from getting chewed.

I love fir firewood!

 

[flushcut]

Well if this just isn't the cutest little splitter I have ever seen!



I use a file most of the time and I have a few axes that are to hard for a file and use a flap disc on a angle grinder, it leaves a nice mirror polish.

 

[squisher]

I do have splitter envy. There's some nice setups out there. The mini attachment is nice for the big ones. I can move the machine with levers instead of lifting the round. It's not the fastest but plenty strong. Takes quite a gnarly knot to stop it.

 

[Cobleskill]

I wrapped some inner tube rubber on my maul and then wrapped some duct tape on it. Seemed to help it last quite well.

 

[flushcut]

Cool!

 

[Limbrat]

My maul handle is fiberglass core with over-molded plastic and it's been indestructible for about ten years. Split tons of wood with it and really enjoy swinging it, but the last couple of years it seems to hurt my shoulder more and more. I've never put a file to it either, I don't want too sharp an edge on a maul or my kindling splitting axe.

 

[rumination]

Has anyone tried the Fiskars splitting axe? It seems to get pretty good reviews.

 

[squisher]

I've read that too Leon. But never tried one. I've blown apart fiberglass handled tools that I've had. They always start to separate.

 

[sotc]

Fiskars handles are hollow, seen one broken

 

[Cobleskill]

I got my son a Fiskar for a present. Works good. I guess I have to buy one for myself.

 

[woodworkingboy]

A friend has a Friskar and much likes it.

 

[NickfromWI]

I like my fiskars axe. But let's be honest. I live in LA and I'm not chopping a ton of firewood.


love
nick