Gaffing out?

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  • #127
LOL. wish I had one. Im a fan of smooth. Less room for error. That's what they use to tell in the army when doing a shot house, enter and clearing buildings, Slow is smooth and smooth is fast... Hope when I get old I have a lil more then smooth stig....lol...I just hope everything still works when im 60. :lol:
 
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  • #131
Ima try my damndist not to. That would hurt like a mother. Man I couldn't even imagine that , those new hooks I wish I would have bought a long time ago. But, hey now I have both sets.
 
I have a 5/8ths cable core with swivel snap and Petal macro grab for the sticky ones. I use regular climb rope remnants with a swivel snap, Vt prussic with tending pulley for the non sticky ones. Length would be species, job, demographic, and climber Dependant.
 
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  • #134
What if you just hike to the TIP and leap frog limbs? In this senerio, no climb line with you. I'm trying to get a good idea of a 2 in 1 lanyard that is one hand tending.
 
always have a climb line that will reach the ground. It acts as my second lanyard/flipline. I just keep different sizes. Down to even a 20 footer for small trees.
 
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  • #136
Yea I have a climb line with me most of the time, Lets say you hike up with a bull rope tie a running bowline and rappel down on the bull rope, how would u leap frog the limbs without your climb line with you.
 
I just wouldn't. I would use my climb line for the rappel from a retrevable high tie i n. Then redirect my climb line to move about canopy or retreive.and reset my tie in as needed.
 
ch74 said:
It is a awesome deal,:D I was halfway up the pine I practice on and idk, The confidence grew fast with those hooks. Even when I was in the top were it's I would say 6 inch dia. I brought one knee up and the balance was there, Not a record breaking time but 50ft leap frogging limbs to the top and setting up to ddrt back down in just over 8 min. :D. That's a hands down improvement for me.
Click to expand...

That's good. Could you shoot a line instead of climbing to set your line? That will be an energy saver. I'd spend 15 minutes fiddling on the ground versus 8 to save 50' of climbing. When the same throw line skills save you setting up in bigger trees it helps conserve more energy. Shooting a line and installing a rope might only take 5 minutes, or less.

Don't get me wrong... Just saying you could become more effective gt by using a throw line, over time. You will take time to learn throw lining skills, and say many 4 letter words.

My best climbing saver was shooting around 175' for a hanger in an old growth, and about 150' for a Wraptor ride in older growth. Many 100' shots. Love throw line skills.
 
Climb with a climb line. Rig with a rigging line.

I rappel off a spar on my pull line, on a munger hitch, keeping my spurs and lanyard as life support.
 
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  • #142
Thanks southsound, yea I practice on the munter hitch rappel yesterday, I made a 2 in 1 lanyard for the times I have to climb to set a pull rope and rappel on the munter like you have described.
 
I agree. If I rappel down a rigging line I use the lanyard around the spar for life support. The rig line is just a way to get down.
 
ch74 said:
Thanks southsound, yea I practice on the munter hitch rappel yesterday, I made a 2 in 1 lanyard for the times I have to climb to set a pull rope and rappel on the munter like you have described.
Click to expand...

Makes sense. Do you have any incapacitating insects/ snakes/ etc, in your trees?

Shoot a pull line in when you can. Don't isolate it, rather run the one end down to the base and running bowline above the facecut, knot on the back cut side. A strong branch at the collar should take many/ most reasonable pulls. I spent 5-10 minutes the other day to shoot a pull line in a dead fir. Easier than climbing. No need to move 150-250 pounds of climber up and down a tree, when the throwline/ weight will do the trick sooo many times.

While trying to go quickly up the tree to set a pull line, how many chances do you have of falling to your death, accidently? How many times could you fall to your death, when propelling a 12 oz weight on some throw line?

Throw lines are your friend, that's all I'm getting at.

Keep learning.

Jed posted about a guy who fell and broke his back while rappelling with a munter hitch. His rope slipped, dropping him several feet, at which point he lost control of the rope.

A groundman can give a fireman's belay, that is where the groundman pulls hard down (not the munter locking position!) in the event of a free fall by the rappeller, locking off the munter hitch. Set up the groundie to use a trunk wrap to help the munter if there would be questionable friction, like a very heavy climber.

When we lower things, all else being equal, i like the groundman to set up next to a tree, so he can use a little trunk wrap if there is not enough friction in the system, or to tie off, as needed, if there is no ground-level lowering device (natural crotch, Belay Spool, port-a-wrap in the tree).
 
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  • #145
Ima get a figure 8 for a situation I had friday, my throw bag was at the house so I couldn't use it, had to hike up set then come down . Yes I always have a lifeline /lanyard or climb line on the tree unless im only on climb line coming down. Im super safe.
 
That's what a hitch hiker is for.

Does the 8 do something for a redirect that a biner won't? Honestly, I never set a retrievable redirect. I saw on on tree stuff that looks slick... Just a biner with a retrieval clip. I look forward to seeing some new tips and tricks.
 
I know, not everyone has an SRT device, or two.

If I didn't, I'd make a virtually free wooden rope wrench, again.

Mainly, my point was that you need a biner for a munger, as well as to connect an 8. Why duplicate?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #150
Both valid points, im going to go with a figure 8 , maybe, For me less gear is better.
 
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