I was taught angled cut first...really comfortable with that, but since moving down under where they do horizontal first i've tried to do it that way...bark is waaaayyyy thicker on native trees down here so horizontal first ensures you get cut into some good wood before forming the face. Angled first can tend to leave you too shallow into the wood, nuthin but bark! Interesting.
i've had the bar pinch enough to do the lower cut first if anything of size /felling , that is slanted if Humboldt or Open Face.
Especially in most used conventional, have done a 'chalk line' bottom cut with saw especially if irregular shaping, perhaps all the way around, at least front
>>then run slanted cut down to chalk line, then cut chalk line
Actually started that by using actual chalk line while working construction area on hill and chalk line was sitting right there trying to get my attention.
If nip sides anyways to not get leathery bark strip pull to side, gonna cut all the way around anyways.
>>If cut full circumference, lining up pure straight cuts from bar should meet square or near enough to adjust and throw.
Angle cut first for me.
With an horizontal cut first, I fine-tune the aim at the end of the first cut, OK, like any others, but then I need to do it again at the very beginning of the angled cut. I don't like much to do it twice, whereas the Angle cut first asks for only one precise aiming.
Either way for me. Horizontal first seems better for sighting a target, especially on a wide tree. Also worth keeping in mind that its probably easier to line up a horizontal cut to an angled cut, as opposed to lining an angled to a horizontal.....becomes more relevant in a tree if you're using a 36 + inch bar
Well making the horizontal last is what caused Tom to spend some time in the hospital a few years back .Damned wedge dropped down pinching the bar on an 066 kicked back and got him bad .He's lucky he still has all his fingers .