Double bit axe handle question

Steve, I think what you've heard so far is about right...that handle will never work for that head eye. The only thing you can do is start looking for one that is a better match. Try logger's shops, feed stores, farm supply places.

I've had trouble now and then myself with that, and one time, in a hail mary attempt at finding a decent fit for an heirloom axe head, I went to a local second hand shop. Lo and behold, I bought an old axe there, beat to hell and rusty, but it had the right sized eye and an old but in pretty good shape handle. I extracted the old handle, sanded and oiled it, tossed the crap head in my recycle bucket and put the old handle in the nice old head...voila, and it looked better than a new handle would have anyway. In fact, the quality of the wood in that old handle surpassed anything new I had looked at.
 
Two edges give you a couple of options...one way is to use one side for rough work and the other for finer, cleaner cutting, so you keep the finer work edge sharper longer. The other way to go is just use whichever side you pick up, but by having two sharpened edges, they neither dull up as fast as one would.
 
Cool. Thanks for the explanation. I think if I had a 2-edger, I'd do the first method you're talking about- having one edge the fine cutting blade and the other the rougher, but longer lasting cutting edge.

I don't know if I'd use it much, unless we got invaded by something like :blackknight:

love
nick
 
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  • #30
Thanks Burnham and everyone else, I found a handle this morning. It's kind of tight and I chipped out a piece out of the end pounding it in there but it's on. I was worried that I had some oddball axe head that was no longer used by anyone. I took a couple of wacks at a piece of redwood that is laying in the wood pile and it works pretty good. Nick, that guy had better watch out if he ever comes to my house, providing he gives me time to go and get my axe, and that I don't hurt myself swinging it around.
 
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  • #32
It was so tight on there that I couldn't get the wood wedge to go in. The handle didn't come with any steel wedges so I went to town and got a couple of those and put them in. I think it could use a couple more.
 
Steve are there any marking on the head. I have a friend that found a double bit stuck i a pine stump in Minnesota 20 years ago he said the stump was almost rotted to nothing. The head was only lightly rusted. He still has it I am working on a new handle for it since the one on it now is broke from splitting oak. I can not find any markings on it The way it is made I think it was forged by a black smith over 100 years ago. It has a very narrow eye like the one in your picture. I'm using some Hop Horn Beam for the handle.
 
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  • #35
I checked it, no markings. Could it be possibly not made in China? It has some dents on the outside like it had at least some hand work done on it; however, the hole had some little ridges going with the grain of the wood to make the handle hold better. So I think that is more sophisticated than the run of the mill blacksmith shop, I would think.
 
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  • #37
Mine needs to be cleaned also. I thought I would hit it with the wire wheel.
 
Odds are if it has that kind of structure in side the eye it wasn't made by a black smith. If you can find a handle that is over sized all the way around. Then all you need is a good wood rasp 6 pack of cold Bud and a good Mudro hand rolled cigar.
 
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  • #39
I got r done. I wire wheeled it and it still looked kind of bad so I actually found a sander with some sandpaper in it and I hit it with that. It kind of shows all the imperfections in the metal now but what the hay. Battlescars right?
 

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  • #40
Steve are there any marking on the head. I have a friend that found a double bit stuck i a pine stump in Minnesota 20 years ago he said the stump was almost rotted to nothing. The head was only lightly rusted. He still has it I am working on a new handle for it since the one on it now is broke from splitting oak. I can not find any markings on it The way it is made I think it was forged by a black smith over 100 years ago. It has a very narrow eye like the one in your picture. I'm using some Hop Horn Beam for the handle.

Is Hop Horn Beam good handle wood?
 
Glad you got it done.

I don't know how things are on the far coast but around here we have antique tractor and engines shows.Usually there is at least one person who has about a zillion handles.Every thing from shovels to axes .Usually cheap too.
 
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  • #42
Glad you got it done.

I don't know how things are on the far coast but around here we have antique tractor and engines shows.Usually there is at least one person who has about a zillion handles.Every thing from shovels to axes .Usually cheap too.

Yeah, we have them here also. I actually know a guy that goes to them all the time. He is a collector of the old poppin motors. My next handle project (now that my saw blade has been outed as a drag saw blade) is I have an old horse drawn plow that needs handles. I think they are still widely available. I'm kind of kicking myself in the rear as I bought a place that had a dump rake in the yard, and a barn that had a pretty good size jackson fork in it, and I let both of them get away.
 
The other name for it around here is Iron wood. I have had people who's grandfathers where in the Minnesota and Wisconsin woods in the axe and saw days say that it was the prefered wood. Part of that may have been because there was no hickory in the northern part of theses states. It is heavier than hickory and it is very tough. Another wood that was used in the area was Blue Beech.
 
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  • #44
The other name for it around here is Iron wood. I have had people who's grandfathers where in the Minnesota and Wisconsin woods in the axe and saw days say that it was the prefered wood. Part of that may have been because there was no hickory in the northern part of theses states. It is heavier than hickory and it is very tough. Another wood that was used in the area was Blue Beech.

I understand that Ash is a good wood for handles also. Something about shock absorbing capabilities.
 
I use ash for canoe paddles. It has good flexing capablities. It would make a good handle. It is also easier to work than hickory or iron wood.
 
White ash makes a dandy baseball bat too .

Oh I suppose the handle choice was just what was available .Odds are against many New England axes ever having had hickory handles . I'm pretty sure the stuff doesn't grow there .
 
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  • #47
I don't want to fan any flames here but I got a hickory handle. It is really good looking too, except for where I broke part of it off getting it in the axe head.
 
Well,for what it's worth and not to be argumentative I lived in New London Conn. for two years.Never saw the first hickory .Not saying they don't grow in the state though . Newfee lives in Mass . and I think he said he's only seen several in his lifetime .

Then again I never saw a live oak until I was in Sebring Fla .about two years ago .

The handle deal in going back years ago I think was just what was regional .

As far as big hickorys ,I have some of the largest ones I've ever seen in my life.Several are right at 100 foot and 30 inches accross .One of them could make enough handles to supply every one of us with a life time supply.:)
 
I think that my bats in high school were made of white ash.
Actually they still are .If I'm not mistaken though in some high school leagues they allow aluminum bats .Unlless things have changed the National and American leagues still mandate the use of the traditional wooden bats ,most of which are made by Louisville slugger in Ky .


Somehing just seems to be missing though when you hear that "bonk" of the baseball being hit by aluminum rather than that nice sharp crack of the ash hitting the horse hide .:)
 
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