coos bay for large heavy leaners

[wiley_p]

You may want to modify your plan a bit.

 

[sierratree]

might consider calling in a blaster.............

 

[sotc]

Doesn't seem to be any real targets, probably the best bet in reality

 

[Burnham]

That is as nasty a fell as most of us will ever face, brother. Looking at pics in nowhere near enough real world info for me to advise any further. Take great care, and watch your head.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Caged angry beavers....

 

[flushcut]

I concur with the beaver idea less noise pollution and all organic.

 

[flushcut]

Nah, blast away it's just more fun!

 

[stehansen]

That looks like a stuck saw waiting to happen.

 

[gf beranek]

You have a real problem stump there. To use the coos bay to good effect you need a good stump first.

It appears the back strap is the only thing holding the tree from falling. Just cutting it might do the trick. Ensure a safe path and watch out for root pull.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Even knowing that things generally work out, I would lose some sleep over that tree.

Severing the back strap before doing anything else would seem to have merit.

 

[SkwerI]

Actually, I wouldn't sever the back strap until I'm damn sure that the tree is going to go down when it's cut. Seems like cutting the sides first would reduce the tendency for side root pull (since those fibers would be cut) and the chances of the tree ripping my feet out from under me would be reduced. I was skeptical of the idea of using a Coo's Bay on this size tree at first but the more I think about it the more sense it makes. Best of luck to you with it, and you damn sure better have somebody taking pictures while you cut it! Video would be even better.

 

[Thor's Hammer]

Excellent input/clarification, Burnham, Jerry and Dave...us lurkers appreciate it.

One quick question, Jerry...that "tapered aspect of holding wood"...is the apex of that triangle at the center of the (what would be the) face? I think that is what you mean by "More wood on the tension side."....capisce?

Is this drawing right?

this technique can work very well if you put your front cuts at 45 degrees, and make them proper felling mouths. I've cut far worse trees than the one pictured with the golden triangle cut. I think I posted some pics of a horrendous badly leaning cracked Poplar where I used this cut.
Its not one I'd recommend without a lot of practice though.

 

[Jed]

I wldn't Coos Bay it. I'd ream-in a horizontal undercut (with no diagonal cut) nearly all the way to the back strap, then trip the back strap abt a half-inch lower. It'll be all good. I say that from the safety of my keyboard.

 

[Burnham]

this technique can work very well if you put your front cuts at 45 degrees, and make them proper felling mouths. I've cut far worse trees than the one pictured with the golden triangle cut. I think I posted some pics of a horrendous badly leaning cracked Poplar where I used this cut.
Its not one I'd recommend without a lot of practice though.

That cut has some proponents over here on the left coast, far side of the pond, Ed. It's a good one, so long as the head lean lets you sneak in those faces without sitting on your bar. Same problem the Burnham version of the Coos Bay has .

 

[gf beranek]

Opening the side cuts is a good idea. It could buy a couple extra seconds to trip the tree.

Using the coos bay to trip a head leaner is not much unlike trying to swing a side leaner and losing it to its favor. The aspect of the holding wood is almost always the same. Only difference is, with swinging a side leaner, we're praying the tension wood can hold and steer our tree to either side of its favor.

In both cases the tension wood in the stump is what we're depending on to hold the tree to the stump up to a point. With the coos bay we sacrifice the tension wood to lose the tree to its favor.

 

[Burnham]

Clean, consise explaination of the forces and our objectives in managing them, Jerry. You do that as well as anyone alive.

 

[sierratree]

you know......looking at the backstrap situation..........i might treat this like there are 2 trees tied together.........."tied together fall together".....so maybe set up the larger stem with side cuts and a shallow undercut; next set up the backstrap with a kerf face and a small backcut, then go back to the main stem use a boring back cut with a sharp chain and lots of speed.

 

[Thor's Hammer]

That sounds like a good plan.

 

[gf beranek]

shoot a video please.

 

[flushcut]

Clean, consise explaination of the forces and our objectives in managing them, Jerry. You do that as well as anyone alive.

He is good.

 

[flushcut]

shoot a video please.

That's an idea for you for the next video series "Hazard Trees"

 

[sierratree]

yeah................i can see the headlines, now...............

 

[woodworkingboy]

Is that broken away piece actually holding up the tree? It seems like it would be under tremendous tension. Chaining together sure seems a good cautionary, perhaps no telling what the strip will end up doing otherwise, and even still.

 

[sierratree]

It seems like main stem has already done its thing by separating from the strap. don't think the strap is holding the rest of the tree upright, although it is probably sharing some of the wieight. The strap reconnects up the tree about 30 feet up. My gut feeling is I do think the backstrap should be cinched down, just above the cutting area, if not, you get the feeling that the split would continue all the way to the top, once severed.

I don't like the idea of using a chain, though. That would really take out your front teeth if it bound open when the tree releases. Makes more sense to use a really stout length of webbing with about 10 wraps around the stem.

 

[sotc]

I doubt you will get that sucked down tight but it is probably prudent to have something to keep it from kicking further. Glad its your tree and not mine