Bill's Husky 372

I'm not sure what it needs, it sat for a long time, and I was going to put a new fuel line and carb kit in it. It has the non-adjustable carb, and I mistakenly got a kit for, I think, the Zama carb. I'll probably just get a new adjustable carb from the saw shop, when I'm ready. I bought this saw new in '97, I think. Only been sharpened once!:lol: Thanks for the offer, anyway.:thumbup:
 
The Bill/Skwerl project has landed! I've never had a full-wrap saw before, looking forward to that. Don't when I'll get a chance to tear into it, but I'll keep everyone posted.
 
Redneck crankcase splitter (person with time). Having time on my hands from having walking pneumonia for 6th day. Breathing good enough to get it apart WITHOUT the $55 + $10 shipping oem crankcase splitter. Still going to break down and get one some day. Just rednecking it and no homemade splitter made either. :\:

Hey, I hate to ask this early, but I needed to tear one down today and I am getting pretty close to needing some oem seals. I'm going to take a break on it as soon as I get the bearings out because I hear some bass calling my name.



Just let me know ok.

anothercrankcase.jpg
 
In and out crankcase bearings. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Put both halves in. Pull one out and used socket to drive out. Put back in oven after cleaned up. Pull other one out drive out with socket. Put back in and pull the first one out and use socket to drive the new bearing in. 2 sockets are used. Same thing on next one. Done with that part now too.

I better put this in for the unknown one. Use a bigger socket on outer race to drive in.
 
Didnt think to freeze the crank bearings ahead of time. Sort of a spare of the moment thing. Skwerl knows why ;). Anyhow the crankshaft is in the freezer for the next step.
 
There's a lot of methods to get the job done .I don't think it really matters so long as it gets the job done .

Kind of like my drywall screw or Andys' packing puller to jerk a seal .They both work .
 
All I do is punch a hole with nail and then a coarse thread 2.5 inch drywall screw.
 
A nail would work but I use either an ice pick or a prick punch .

Speaking of that though in one one of tool boxes at my shop is a slide hammer with half a dozen different screw on heads used to pull seals . It's at the shop though and I seldom work on saws there so I've never used it for that application .The thing would work like a charm though .
 
Didn't want the crankshaft to get freezer burnt waiting so :D

Didnt have any seals on hand. So went ahead and installed crank without seals. Last one I did I installed seals first.

What do you guys think is easier way to do it? I like the idea of no seals in due to not having to worry about flipping a lip. Whats your guys opinion?

ccc.jpg cc.jpg
 
I always put the seals in last myself also .

Now I can't comment much on Huskeys because I've never split one .On the Stihls however I've done it several ways .Bearings first ,then the crank or bearings on the crank then the cases .Either method works .
 
Had some time to kill today. I think the main bearing are the same that are used in the husky 372 ( 6202 ) ;) . Is that the same common bearing number?

Just like the PP 330 I tore down the PP 365 dont use a crankcase gasket, only sealant. Sweden made crankshaft ;).
Piston had some scoring on exhaust side and ring stuck. How it ran like it did is beyond me.

Bottom right shows the worm gear puller. Those things are the cats ::) to use to get the worm gear off the crankshaft.

pp365anflowers007.jpg

pp365anflowers014.jpg
 
I've gotta say this clutch side seal setup on the 372 is much different from the 394. I put in a new seal, o-ring and oil pump driver. I got it started and it would rev up good, but the idle was off and it would stall. There's a big thunder storm going over right now, so I didn't go outside fuss with the adjustments, just ran it the way it came. I'll work on tuning tomorrow hopefully. I don't know if I got the seal in right, there isn't much room for error. The little o-ring didn't look great, but I don't think that has anything to do with the seals failing. All OEM parts.
 
I don't know what the cost difference would have been, but I know it would have been a hassle locating all the bits and paying shipping. I called Bob, who owns my local Husky shop, saturday at 11:30 and said I want both seals, and the oil pump driver. He said do you want the little o-ring too? I said sure I'll take one, what's it for?:lol: I stopped in today at noon on an unrelated ordeal and he gave me the parts and I gave him $44.21.:D I don't like that I couldn't find anything wrong, so I'm not sure what the outcome will be.
 
Keeping a eye on your 372 findings D.S. Hope you get some run time on it soon to see.



Another poulan taken down with a bad bearings and rod bearing. Seems like something got in this one. See the cake flaky white stuff? :what:

Going to pull crank out of another 260 that lost a fight with a tree and try and make one good loaner saw out of the 2.

PP260004.jpg

PP260002.jpg

PP260005.jpg
 
I haven't gotten much of a chance to tune it yet. I baselined the carb settings and it fired up but didn't idle. Had to switch out the long bar onto a borrowed 385 so we could keep going on our long log sawing. Maybe tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
 
Anyone got a right side crankcase to spare for this 372 that lost a fight with a tree?

Projectsaws011.jpg
 
Spent another hour or so and started project PP260 today. Didnt quite get to use the parts the way I wanted to. Ended up using crank, piston and lower clamshell out of old saw and used cylinder and plastic crankcase from parts saw. Borrowed a bar stud from a green 33cc poulan laying around with no motor to replace a broken one in the parts saw crankcase.

Crappy cell phone pic that was with me. :P

PP260.jpg
 
Needed a new carb needle and both diaphragms. Finished and tested PP260 42cc loaner saw ready. Tested with a 12 but will be wearing a 18.

pp260001.jpg

pp260002.jpg
 
I found something on a sleeve that could rip a seal up like that had happened on the saw that started this thread. Check the old sleeve that goes on the clutch side that slides inside the seal for rough areas. I found some rough cut likes on a sleeve I just removed and wont reuse it with the new seal. I think the cuts came from the pita removal.

Also another thing that could have happened. I seated a seal to deep the other day and the sleeve once put in was riding on the seal soft areas and would have created a air leak and probably ripped up the seal. I had to pull seal out ($15 buck one grrr) and install another.
 
It is a constant learning processes to work on saws.
A seal is nothing to beat yourself about...

Lots of things can and will go bad when working on seals. This is one of the more tricky stuff in a saw. Even with all knowledge and experience you can possibly have, there is still stuff that can go wrong.
It is just to tear in to it again, over and over if needed, until it is right.
 
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