Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Well they can be frustrating at times .Sometimes you just have to set them on the self until you regain your cool . With me sometimes that might take a couple of years .
Bill's Husky 372
- Thread starter SkwerI
- Start date
- Replies 208
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Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
I haven't touched this saw probably since I last posted here about it. I think it needs a carb kit. I put new crank seals in it and I still can't adjust it to run right. Should I buy a kit from Bailey's, or just buy a complete carb from them? It might be worth the $60 just to eliminate the carb from the equation. Just wondering if they are a good carb, or some sort of import POS.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
A carb kit is a cheap way to do some more analysis as well. I have torn down a couple of carbs with some problem saws and found little issues inside. Rebuild and they run fine. Then again, I can think of two that just need new carbs. But that is more of a wear issue with idle screws. They just won't stay put!
top_notch
Treehouser
A carb kit is a cheap way to do some more analysis as well. I have torn down a couple of carbs with some problem saws and found little issues inside. Rebuild and they run fine. Then again, I can think of two that just need new carbs. But that is more of a wear issue with idle screws. They just won't stay put!
Can you use loctite or telethon tape or something to keep them from moving around?
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
I orefer to just remove a carb off a parts saw and rebuild it and ....... There ya go. They are our brushing saws. They run non stop until they need gas to get started again.
flushcut
TreeHouser
Carb kit.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Aside from a leaking welch plug, with a visual inspection I think you can pretty much tell if you need a carb kit. Are the gaskets in good shape and the diaphragms still supple? Look at the metering needle under a lens, is the the small rubber seal on it appearing worn, if it is that type? I haven't much found a carb kit to help a problem if what is already on there seems good. If the parts look ok, you might thoroughly disassemble and clean the carb, if you haven't done it already. Metering lever height should be checked as well.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
It could go right back to those crankcase seals .Husqvarna on some models use a square step in the crank shaft the seal rides on .Stihls have little chamfer in the seal step but Husky not so much .
Much gnashing of teeth over those damned things .It would be very easy to roll the seal lip if precautions aren't taken to prevent it .I've mention several times I use a piece of thin plastic tubing to kind of "shoe spoon " the seal over this lip .Could be the carb too though .
Much gnashing of teeth over those damned things .It would be very easy to roll the seal lip if precautions aren't taken to prevent it .I've mention several times I use a piece of thin plastic tubing to kind of "shoe spoon " the seal over this lip .Could be the carb too though .
Magnus
TreeHouser
Find out what is right is alway's first step when you can't see what is wrong. Lines, scoring, coil gap, correct plug, settings on carb....
Test it so you know if it is tight or were it not.
IF case and carb is tight and set correct, it should work.
What settings are the needles on now? Is main inlet needle tight?
Test it so you know if it is tight or were it not.
IF case and carb is tight and set correct, it should work.
What settings are the needles on now? Is main inlet needle tight?
