Bill's Husky 372

Nah...
Don't give up now.. You need to figure out what happened.

If you are suspecting crank is the bad guy, then have a look.
It is not that hard and you can do without a indicator clock to see a crank bad enough to break a seal or oil pump.
Something solid and case fixed. Turn and see difference. You need to have a pretty bad crank to cause this.
From what I can tell from here you got the seal in wrong on clutch side and it caused the crash.
This is easy to do and everyone get it wrong first time. Myself included. I still get them wrong sometimes.
But not even a good guess as there is much I can't see or check...
Pressure test is a good thing!

Bad seals with good bearings is very common with the fuel in gas stations today. It drys them out.
 
You did good Brian! How do you like that Makita drill? :lol:
I'm no help on installing those seals, but in the future, get an angled pair of dyke's to grab on the screw and use the angle to pull them out. I'm not explaining it well, but I think you get the point?
 
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  • #130
Andy, do you mean a bull dyke or the regular kind? And how will she be able to grab the screw any better than me using the pliers? :P
 
Al Smith said:
Hell it could have a bent crank from a fall They don't have to be bent much too really screw things up .
Click to expand...

Thats what I was wondering too. Whatever big hit that broke the oiler may have somehow got to the clutch side crank to somehow make it untrue. :?

OEM crank kits are over $200. I would not use the $60 aftermarket ones JMO. I would look for a donor crankcase. $75-$115 for a used good OEM crankcase.
 
About the only thing I do differently is to punch a little hole in the seal with an awl rather than drill a hole .To pull the things with a screw I have a tiny little pry bar .Actually it is design to remove wood working trim .Trivia ,any way that gets the seal out works,B did okay .:)
 
I thought of something else .As a normal rule from what I've seen the clutch side is the easiest to install .The flywheel side is the one with a square shoulder on it .B greased it up well enough though and I assume so the clutch side too .

Now if I remember the clutch side was blown out originally ,plus the oiler .

There's got to be more to this mystery than a seal installation .Once again trouble shooting over the net is next to impossible .I'm going to take a peek at the IPL ,might come up with something ,you never know .
 
Skwerl said:
Well dang. I think this is my first documented saw repair failure, but it was still a good learning experience. I just wish I could have gotten it running after all that.

Since I failed at the repair as well as my choice in crappy replacement parts, I can't bring myself to charge Bill anything for my wasted time. I just shot off a second email to Scott at Chainsawr so he may (hopefully) refund some dollars for his crappy aftermarket parts. But at this point I'm afraid I've done all I can do with it. Bill, give me a holler and we can meet up the next time you're in town and I'll give your saw back to you. I'm sorry I couldn't fix it. :(
Click to expand...

Brian, thanks for trying, just keep it as a parts saw for yours if you want it, I'd feel bad not paying you for your attempt to fix it as it took time from your schedule. I should have known it was a good old saw, but like all saws they do wear out over time and some just aren't worth fixing.
 
Brian if you end up with this saw and get a good crankcase to rebuild for Bill or yourself. Only after you strip it bare to just crank and crankcase left, that way the good parts can be used by you two. I would like to take a look at this bad crankcase to see what going on with it.

I've got them with bad bearings, broken cases, spun bearings in case and bad big end rod bearing. I would like to see if the crank is bent or what is going on with this one.
 
Johnny come lately here...........but don't be blowin' that compressed air into the bearings especially after drilling through the metal rim of the seal, (just sends the swarf into the bearing & case). Like Al,I use the centre punch method with either a slide hammer or small pry bars on the screw heads.
Don't give up Brian. Pull the jug,piston clutch,flywheel & seals & rinse the case out thoroughly with mixed gas......let drip dry,no comp. air then check your bearings for side play & that good old "gravely" feeling before you write it off.I have resurected waaaaaay uglier saws,one in that condition would be "allowed" to reside with my Stihls (discretely of course:P )

Steve
 
This PP 365 I tore into today that runs but was having issues. Knew it had a air leak and I was guessing seal due to the running on side test. When pulled down you could get crank movement big time by hand clunk clunk back and forth and a little up down movement.

Had cell with me so I snapped a pic.

8d9385d060b8_4be5e1fe-a790-44c6-bf9a-4d55c56ca893.jpg
 
I got a pair of old remingtons given to me ,was told they don't run. Well of course I had to try & MAKE them run. The cleaner of the two had a "wobbly"crank but WTHeck,cleaned it up,gassed it & she worked (reluctantly) then smoothed out. Well on goes the B&C, oil in the res. & started it up............well holy crap ! Looked as though I was fogging for mosquitoes,seems the oil coming off the chain was being sucked into the crank case........well it's retired now :lol:

Steve
 
Some times they come out of it .I have a Mac 700 in the shed that was so stiff I could hardly turn it .Kerosine for a month in the cylinder,in the crankcase .My George it revived,one new clutch side seal . I robbed a few incidentals from a doner with a needled piston .Fact is it did a stint as a back up saw for a trimmer for a month or so and never missed a lick .Ran it last week and that old duffer still has it .
 
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  • #142
Dave Shepard said:
I see, I wasn't quite sure what you were saying, but that doesn't mean it was your fault.:|: :lol:

Hey Bill, what's the saw worth to you? I was looking for a clunker 394, but I might be tempted to buy a 372 project, if price and shipping is workable. ( I don't know what a reasonable price is for it).
Click to expand...

Dave, your question was never answered. I was hoping a donor crankcase would show up but it's not looking that way. You want to make an offer on this thing?
 
I think you should do as Bill says and keep it for parts, unless you aren't interested. What's it worth?
 
To be clear, The saw is Brian's now, not mine. Brian holler at me tomorrow, I'll be in maitland at lake colony estates and in oviedo.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #145
You're still getting something out of it. Homey don't play dat. ;)
Dave Shepard is buying it and I'll split it with you.
 
Dave S. Let us know what you find with the crank ripping seals up and the condition of crank bearings. I'm curious if the crank end is bent or not.
 
I thought of something which could have some merit .Grease is basically oil with a thickener .As such it really doesn't flow like oil .

Now what would happen if per chance a caged ball bearing were stuffed with grease ,seal seated and rolled over at 10,000 RPM .Would it be possible that the rotation at that speed cause the centrifigul force to blow out the seal ? More ---
 
On high speed precision sealed bearings used on machine spindles they blow out all the grease except what the ball and surface of the races will hold before they ever are put in service .Completely sealed all the lube they will ever need is on the surface of the balls and races .Sounds odd I know but it's a fact .Now we're talking bearings that cost a couple thou a pop .
 
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