Bill's Husky 372

SkwerI

SkwerI

Treehouser
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
19,281
Location
central Florida
Bill asked me to look at his 372xp because he said it wouldn't idle. I immediately noticed several other issues and thought I would start a thread for suggestions and solutions. The saw is a bit older but has good compression.

The first thing I noticed was that everything on the saw was covered woti an oily film except the bar and chain, and the oil tank was bone dry. Seems the adjustment screw on the oil pump either fell out or was broken off. I've never had one out, so I don't know if they just screw out or if there is a stop. Regardless, that would explain the oil everywhere. I blew off some of it but fully cleaning the saw would be an hour or more and I'm not going that far for a freebie analysis.

I also found parts of the blue kill switch wire stuffed in the cooling fins. One of mine did the same thing a couple months ago when the starter rope shredded and snagged the kill switch wire as well as the plug wire. The flywheel has been rubbing somewhere, I checked clearance on the coil and reset it. One of the screws was a little loose.

Plug looks good. The screw on contact cap on top was loose so I snugged that down. Gap was correct.

I believe the low end jet on the carb is completely plugged. It runs well at WOT but as soon as I let off the throttle the speed only drops slightly, then after about a second or two it dies completely.

Fuel line, impulse line and fuel pickup have been replaced. I'm not thrilled with the fuel pickup (looks like something for a 20cc weed wacker) and the fuel line in the tank is just straight line, not the coiled line like the OEM setup to help keep the pickup in the bottom of the tank. Regardless of that, the fuel tank is almost full so that isn't part of the immediate issue.

I haven't pulled the carb yet. This saw has different size allen screws attaching the carb and my allen wrench set is on the bucket truck. I'll do a general cleaning/disassembly of the carb but not sure exactly where to look to find the other end of the low speed jet and unblock it.

Also, any suggestions on the oiler (other than the obvious replacement) would be welcomed. The saw isn't suitable for use otherwise.
 
OK, lets see here...
I would have a look first to see gear and picup is correct and OK.
If so put another adjustment screw in....

The pic is not clear enough to tell, but it looks like the caps are of and the idle screw is set a bit far in. I could be mistaken of this, but it looks like it....
Start over from scratch, take the T out until the throttle is fully closed, then two full turns in is a good starting point. Reset needles on it and if it gives a hard time setting, stop and look for problems and leaks.
If you remove pump side of carb and find it clean, I doubt channel is blocked to L.
I think if you start over you will find it gets food from H and not enough from both H and L at WOT.
Look at setting of needles as you start over...

I think there might have been more stuff behind the cover than there is or rope snaged on this too.
If tension from spring is less than the speed of rope (as handle enters cover) sometimes the rope "fall out of place" and snags.
 
If it helps I think I have a coouple oilers I can take apart to show how it works and should look...
I think I have one 372 in attic some were.... No E tech though...
 
Do what you want but I've found if you're going to pull a carb apart you'd just as well rekit it .What less than 10 bucks and you're good to go for a couple years .Fact is as I type I've got a kit on order for a Mac I'll do thread on after I get it done . Carbs just aren't worth fiddling with,do it once and be done .

Fuel line and kill switch plus the oil pump screw would not likely be over 30 bucks .So that and a carb kit 40 .If you can't get the parts locally as I am unable to ,Tony from Amicks will ship them to you in a couple of days .40 bucks and a little clean up / tuneup should put it back in service .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
After comparing this oil pump to the one on a 372 I have on the shelf, it appears that part of the pump housing is broken off. Also, the adjustment screw on mine does not just screw out. There is an internal stop of some sort which is obviously missing on Bill's oil pump. Rather than trying to reinvent the thing, it would most likely be easier to simply replace the pump with a used one off a donor saw.

I'm not familiar with Amick's but I have heard good stuff about Scott at Chainsawr.com. He should have the oiler and carb kit as well as a couple items I need for one of my saws. My local options don't stock many parts and only act as expensive middlemen for online ordering. They charge more than the online guys, take longer and want their money up front. I'll wait until Bill pipes in here to make sure he wants me to fix the oiler before I proceed.
 
Scott is about as good as they come.

We have the same problem in this area for stocking Husqvarna dealers which is why Tony gets most of what little bit of Husky parts I need .
 
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  • #7
Update on the oiler- The adjustment screw is retained by a cotter clip which snaps through a hole in the pump housing and over a groove in the screw. The pump housing on this saw is broken at that hole and the cotter clip is gone. In other words, just putting a screw in the hole won't work because it will fall out.

Scott has a new in the bag (old stock) oil pump housing for $50 but I'd prefer an entire working pump, even used.
Ahh, here's one.
 
Skwerl said:
After comparing this oil pump to the one on a 372 I have on the shelf, it appears that part of the pump housing is broken off. Also, the adjustment screw on mine does not just screw out. There is an internal stop of some sort which is obviously missing on Bill's oil pump. Rather than trying to reinvent the thing, it would most likely be easier to simply replace the pump with a used one off a donor saw.

I'm not familiar with Amick's but I have heard good stuff about Scott at Chainsawr.com. He should have the oiler and carb kit as well as a couple items I need for one of my saws. My local options don't stock many parts and only act as expensive middlemen for online ordering. They charge more than the online guys, take longer and want their money up front. I'll wait until Bill pipes in here to make sure he wants me to fix the oiler before I proceed.
Click to expand...

Sure, lets get the oiler and parts for it.Oh and brian, I got no problem throwing a few bucks your way either.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
I placed an order with Chainsawr this morning before work. I emailed Scott this weekend asking for a few items and he replied yesterday. I also crunched the rear handle on a 372 of mine yesterday so I ordered a new handle/gas tank as well. I haven't checked the tracking number yet but I assume everything will be here about the end of the week or possibly the first of next week.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Idunno, Kevin. I bought an aftermarket one from Chainsawr for $75. I was ordering from him anyway and it was easier than shopping around.
 
Let me know how the AFM works out for you. JJ had said AFM were brittle and snapping at AV mounts.
The Forester AFM tanks list for $45 before mark up.

So I bought a bunch of OEM tanks at a shop closing up and sold all but 2-3.
 
Like I said I had already sold the extras off. Right now I have 3 372 projects I am slowly building piece by piece again.

The ones stacked on the right side without tanks on them.

2100268372365362001.jpg
 
Skwerl said:
I placed an order with Chainsawr this morning before work. I emailed Scott this weekend asking for a few items and he replied yesterday. I also crunched the rear handle on a 372 of mine yesterday so I ordered a new handle/gas tank as well. I haven't checked the tracking number yet but I assume everything will be here about the end of the week or possibly the first of next week.
Click to expand...

Cool, Thanks again Brian, let me know what I owe you.
 
Wow. Is there a name for owning that many 372s?:lol: I had one in my hands yesterday, but ran the 385 instead.
 
Not all 372's :D. I have 362xp, 365 SP, 372, 375, 376 top ends on them. I wanted to test them and compare so I started building them slowly.
I never did come across a open port cylinder for a 365, only the closed port 365 special versions that run great imo. 8)

The 3 left will all get 50mm 372 top ends.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #22
The box from Chainsawr came in already. I'll see if I can tackle that carb this weekend. And I'll bust out the Simple Green so that I might be able to find that broken oiler. I know it's under all that gunk somewhere. :/:
 
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