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Anyone ever do this?

MasterBlaster

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Sometimes I'm lazy and I don't feel like pushing so I'll get the top half to lean and pull the bottom half with it. If I woulda cut them shorter I coulda got three but that's just showing off.

I was trying to finish and hit the ground. :drink:
 

Burnham

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Never have, Butch. I might be just a little leery of having that russian coupling overhead like that. Works a charm, though...I can see that.
 
T

The Branch Doctor

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That's different. I could be wrong but that looks like a "struck by" waiting to happen.

Are there any benefits to using that technique Butch?
 

squisher

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That looks pretty nifty, I'm not really seeing how if you set it up properly you could get hit by it? Looks like it would workout real good as long as your LZ had the room for it. Although I'd wonder if it was already leaning over like that from your cut when you were still up there why you wouldn't just finish it off, just to save having to push the lower chunk?
 

SkwerI

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I'm always worried about the bounce on pieces like that. I'll cut them that long if I can land them right, and/or if they have enough brush on them to keep them from bouncing.

Although you've probably had a lot more experience than me on those tall slash pines. Nice cuttin'.
 
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rumination

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That's a pretty neat trick Butch. As long as you stay on the back side of the lean I think it's probably safe enough. Like others have said you need to have the right landing zone for it.


Good to see some new pictures of you at work.
 
J

Jonseredbred

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My thought is that the top piece might prematurely break off and the release force may break the hinge on the second piece towards you.

How do you land the pieces flat with that type of deal? All tree men drop pieces flat don't they??
 
T

The Branch Doctor

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My thought is that the top piece might prematurely break off and the release force may break the hinge on the second piece towards you.

How do you land the pieces flat with that type of deal? All tree men drop pieces flat don't they??
Ummm yeah, every time.:|:
 

NickfromWI

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Just to clarify I'm seeing this right:

You climb up, make a notch, make a back cut just until the piece is moving, then you stop so the notch closes and the piece sits there.

Then you climb down and make another notch, and drop both pieces in one. It probably busts when it hits the ground.

If I'm following right, it seems like it COULD be risky. Like snap cutting, you gotta know your wood to know how thick of a hinge to leave and all that jazz.

Why not just cut a little further and drop that top piece while you are up there. Is it saving you any time or energy?

love
nick
 

MasterBlaster

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Actually, that leaning piece helps it to land flat. THAT drop fell flat as you could please.
 

rbtree

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Sure, I would too....but do agree there's a tiny bit of risk.

I have no problem pushing 16-20 footers, or, make a deep face, and they tip over on their own.
 

MasterBlaster

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That's called "undermining the COG," according to Jerry B. And it works just fine!
 
T

The Branch Doctor

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If you swapped the axe with a poorly maintained, barely running chainsaw that pic would greatly resemble a (haha) tree crew around here.:O
 
F

Frans

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Neat trick, MB. Dont know if I got the balls to do it though.
 

sotc

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i dont see an issue as long as theres enough room for the pieces to bounce around when they hit. once the face is closed i dont see a short chunk like that breaking its self loose unless the hinge was nearly cut through. i use rogers trick alot
 

Old Monkey

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I've tried something similar. Pine works well with that sort of thing. I am going to try an "S" next.
 
T

The Branch Doctor

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i dont see an issue as long as theres enough room for the pieces to bounce around when they hit. once the face is closed i dont see a short chunk like that breaking its self loose unless the hinge was nearly cut through. i use rogers trick alot
What's Rogers trick?
 

rumination

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Roger's trick is a very deep face cut to undermine the center of gravity. I think Jerry mentioned that technique in his book as well.
 
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