Any Rope Wrench or Hitch Hiker users here?

What are people's favorite slack tender/ corner trap? I've been using a piece of tech cord, which doubles as a DdRT clip in point. Not much corner trapping happening.
 
RajElectric said:
I tried using a tending pulley, always seemed to pinch the rope between the cheek plates and bridge ring while ascending. Made a rough mock up of bridge adapter, worked pretty good, just need some of the angles fine tuned.
View attachment 63083View attachment 63084
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What alloy aluminum is that? I guess its 1/2" thick at the carb attachment point but still would worry me a little. maybe a little break testing ?
 
It's 3/4" thick 6061, just a mock up for a concept, not in use, when I climbed it was backed up by a small webbing sling. When the heat subsides I'm gonna put it on my break tester. Still need to fine tune it.
 
RajElectric said:
It's 3/4" thick 6061, just a mock up for a concept, not in use, when I climbed it was backed up by a small webbing sling. When the heat subsides I'm gonna put it on my break tester. Still need to fine tune it.
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Oh good. I do like your line of thinking on this, I've had my HH for a couple of weeks now and really liking it except for the slack tending. Be real nice to have a pulley in the system.
 
Really nice to have a pulley.

A large enough ring to not pinch the rope bridge, and small enough to snug the pulley cheek plates over it, and clip.

My current SMC rings are too small, pinching the rope bridge, not allowing it to move freely. When I'm DdRT to lower out, the termination biner moves to the top of the bridge, and the HH biner is a bit cock-eyed, rather than more vertical.

Keep messing with your hitch length, until you find the sweet spot.
 
FWIW this is what it looks like and seems to need. It's specifically for the DMM pinto pulley, since the becket can be used as a rated attachment point.

A- needs to have radius as drawn by black line, rope pinches if the pinto pulley is pulled up.
B- bridge hole needs to be lower about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, perhaps lengthening the aluminum to 2.5inch.
C- bridge hole needs to be in line with biner/pinto pulley hole.
D- angled grooves to match pinto pulley needs to be smoothed out for more movement and less wear.

IMG_20150907_130109.jpg
 
On tending various devices I've always just used my lanyard, but that is a pain in the ass having to adjust it every time after you tie in. I hate having anything around my neck so I recently figured out I can just throw a Petzl torse over my shoulder instead of around my neck. Just leave it attached to the rear of harness and stuff it in the ditty bag when done. Not exactly a revelation but it sure works for me.
 
SouthSoundTree- said:
What kind of wire did you use for the tender?
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Its the inner part of a used OMC, Johnson,Evinrude remote control cable. Stainless steel tough as hell to bend but does not break, great for all kinds of uses. If you have any boat repair shops around they just throw them away when they replace with new cables. I've got plenty on hand and would be happy to send you some.
 
DMc said:
Yes! It does, however, require that you be more attentive on how the carabiner lines up in the HH. Most carabiner tethers also worked as corner traps that helped keep everything in line. Still worth it in my opinion.
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I agree Dave.
To keep it in line I slide a rubber corner trap along the steel krab and push it up against the HH. This stops the HH moving round the krab and cross loading.
Thanks for posting.
Al.
 
That HH2 kinda looks good i wouldn't mind trying one again now that im not a complete green horn.lol. More compact i presume...?....im still rolling with my Rw. Love it so far its simple, haven't really gotten to use it much but nun the less its nice.
 
Tim_B. said:
Hey, Peter! This is a nice looking idea, and I really like the smooth groove for the rope you have going on there. The one thing I'm confused about is where and how your bridge ring connects up, with that piece of metal taking up the spot that used to be taken by the bridge ring.

Is that what the second hole is for? Clip a biner through the bottom hole and also through the bridge ring? Thanks in advance for any answers you choose to give.

Tim
Click to expand...
That is clever, why not just make sheave to go in there? It could spin on the biner. May wear the cheeks prematurely but....
 
I just switched out the original beeline I got with my HH for a new piece of hitch cord.

The only cord I could get locally was 8mm beeline..I tell you, paired up on my Tachyon it is WAY better than the 10mm, tending and grabbing is much better.

So there you have it
 
The performance of hitch cord degrades faster than it actually wears out. I find it is always a treat breaking in new hitch cords.
If you like the smaller cords, as I do, you might want to give 8mm Armor-Prus or 9mm ArbPro a try. They sure slide through the holes in the dogbone easily without having to mess around tapering the ends.
 
I've noticed that the AP hitch cord will start to get a little stiff in the cover after long service. The core has always been basically pristine, but once it starts to get stiff I usually replace with new. Great stuff. I'm also liking the Bee Line Blue stuff. It has been holding up well.
 
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