200T no one can fix local

I wonder if my 200t has one of those carbs? It always has had trouble idling and dieing out. You know... for instance, I'll need to pump the gas carefully to get it to run full throttle, when I let it idle (when it'll idle for more than 5 sec) the rpms seem to speed up, then it dies. :?
 
See? Many people don't even think about their saw not running right. They just accept it instead of adjusting the carb.

Andrew, no offense, you're just as normal as most other tree guys. But your saw should idle without stalling and accellerate without having to twiddle with the throttle. Sounds like it's running lean which will lead to premature failure if you continue running it like that. Either learn how to adjust the carb or hand it to somebody who can.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw carb tune.htm
 
Dude, I've adjusted the carb, and It didn't help any. Definitely seemed to run lean, but adjusting it doesn't seem to help. The thought that keeps coming back is that gas may have sat in it too long and gummed it up. I bought it used, and I don't think they drained the gas out.

I just noticed the comments earlier about the possible bad carbs, so I thought I'd ask, ...maybe see if that was an associated prob.
 
Sorry, a bad assumption on my part.

Yes, running lean is a symptom of a bad carb. The last one I had I rebuilt it twice and it still ran lean. Bought a new carb and it ran perfect. I hate rebuilding carbs and it rarely works for me. It seems like they leak around the butterfly shaft or something, sucking in air.
 
I had heard but have no experiance with that changing the little Xama to a Walbro fixes a lot of problems .I think the 020T used a Walbro model WK .

In my tinkering ,when I get a chance ,I'll see what other model might fit those little 200T's .
 
Al Smith said:
I had heard but have no experiance with that changing the little Xama to a Walbro fixes a lot of problems .I think the 020T used a Walbro model WK .

In my tinkering ,when I get a chance ,I'll see what other model might fit those little 200T's .
Click to expand...


Al or anyone else in the know, is the 020's Walbro carbs a direct exchange or do the linkages have to be bent all to heck to get them to work? Just wondering is all......
 
I only assume they are a direct bolt in .I suppose though if that bent up wire gizmo linkage is the same stock number on both the 20 and the 200 they would fit .

Another thing that crossed my mine .A few years back I worked on a funky running 020T .I rebuilt the carb,some improvemnet .I then changed the crank side seal .Ran like a new one .As far as I know it's still in service .

What's odd though is I can't for the life of me remember exactly how that damned carb bolted in . Except for the fact that whatever I did on that 020T it took me half and hour to figure out how to disect the freaken thing . I've got the pics some place maybe that will jog my memory .:?
 
Maybe one of these will fix your problem??
lectoncarb.gif
 
Wagnaw said:
Dude, I've adjusted the carb, and It didn't help any. Definitely seemed to run lean, but adjusting it doesn't seem to help. The thought that keeps coming back is that gas may have sat in it too long and gummed it up. I bought it used, and I don't think they drained the gas out.

I just noticed the comments earlier about the possible bad carbs, so I thought I'd ask, ...maybe see if that was an associated prob.
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat as you, once my saw gets warmed up it will idle for a few seconds then run lean and die. I have adjusted the carb many times and taken it places to have it adjusted. I have never taken my saw anywhere to have it torn down but I have taken it apart my self a few times and checked all of the rubber fittings and cleaned out the muffler. I also took the carb apart, and all of the gaskets and diphragm looked good. Maybe mine is the carb or one of the engine seals. I did blow air all around the saw while it was idling to look for air leaks (something I heard would show them) but it didn't affect the saws idle. Whats the best way to find out if the seals on the saw are leaking. Oh, some days the saw runs perfect all day, then the next day it is a PITA.:X
 
That saw I mentioned installing a seal in was an 020 av ,top handled version .It is different than a regular 020t or 200T in that it has a side mounted carb and a side exit exhaust . That saw used the Walbro carb .The 020T lists a Zama .
 
top notch-
I'm fortunate in that I have three 200Ts so if I have issues like that then I can swap carbs with another saw. That will tell me immediately if it's the carb. New carbs are cheap compared to weeks of frustration. If a thorough disassembly and cleaning doesn't clear up the problem, I'll slap a new carb on it rather than fight it.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #215
Wasn't the tank vent (purge vent?) one of the problems on the 200t when it ran that way? Warmed up then issues? I seem to remember that from a previous discussion.. Also... I am really starting to wonder if that manifold (rubber that is the pain in the butt that I think Al just posted recent a quick way of dealing with it) if it gets a leak will lean out when warmed up and idle for shit. Sorry not trying to complicate things as we try to start out simple and progress from there. But it really sounds like you have covered the simple shat ..... :D
 
top_notch said:
I'm in the same boat as you, once my saw gets warmed up it will idle for a few seconds then run lean and die. I have adjusted the carb many times and taken it places to have it adjusted. I have never taken my saw anywhere to have it torn down but I have taken it apart my self a few times and checked all of the rubber fittings and cleaned out the muffler. I also took the carb apart, and all of the gaskets and diphragm looked good. Maybe mine is the carb or one of the engine seals. I did blow air all around the saw while it was idling to look for air leaks (something I heard would show them) but it didn't affect the saws idle. Whats the best way to find out if the seals on the saw are leaking. Oh, some days the saw runs perfect all day, then the next day it is a PITA.:X
Click to expand...


Mine was acting similar that I just picked up.

That 200T I just got seemed to idle the same way as the one described above. When i had the carb tore down looking for problems I noticed the fulcrum thing that lifts the needle seat (excuse if wording isn't right) I noticed it was setting a little low I adjusted it up just a tad and just above even if holding a flat object across it. No more dieing at idle or stumbles when throttling from idle. Something to ponder and easy adjustment for 0 cost to try.
 
Hey ya'll always talk about taking off the "limiter caps" Could you elaborate a little more on that?

If I'm not mistaken, limiter caps keep you from adjusting the high end too much right? Do 200Ts have them, and would it be a good idea to remove them?
 
They are plastic caps that fit over the adjustment screws. There's a tab on one side so the screw is limited in travel, less than one full revolution total movement. your best bet is to shave off the tit on the side of the limiter cap so that it can turn a full 360 degrees. It's easiest to get to it by simply removing the carb from the saw first. Takes about 3 minutes.
 
Are the needle valves long enough to stick a spring under them .I don't know because all I've ever done was shave the tab off of a few of varied manufacture .
 
They stick out a ways, but I don't recall a head on them that would hold a spring. Also, they aren't a very tight tolerance fit, kinda wiggly, in my opinion.
 
TreeTrim said:
Mine was acting similar that I just picked up.

That 200T I just got seemed to idle the same way as the one described above. When i had the carb tore down looking for problems I noticed the fulcrum thing that lifts the needle seat (excuse if wording isn't right) I noticed it was setting a little low I adjusted it up just a tad and just above even if holding a flat object across it. No more dieing at idle or stumbles when throttling from idle. Something to ponder and easy adjustment for 0 cost to try.
Click to expand...

I'll check that out. Last time I took the carb apart I remember a Philips head screw that I removed to get the needle valve out...Is this the part your talking about adjusting...the whole assembly is under the diaphragm? If it is the part how do you adjust it, if I remember correctly last time I took it out, the screw that held in the plate that held in fuel valve assembly was in pretty tight. It didn't seem to be an adjustment screw, just a tighten down all the way screw.
 
You have to bend the fuel lever to adjust it .

Too high the thing floods ,too low it starves for fuel .

In a manner of speaking a diaphragm carb is a type of mechanical fuel injecter .Sometimes a slightly stiff diaphragm can be corrected by setting the lever just a tad high ,sometimes not .

Basically all diaphragm carbs work the same no matter who made them . Tillotson 's web site has about the best tutorial on trouble shooting ,theory of operation etc . Take a peek when you have the time .
 
Just putting this here in a safe place for reference later if the puter here crashes.

200 carbs used

S126
S128 Japan
S127
S129 Japan
S61E, C1Q-S61D
S108A, C1Q-S108 Japan
S96B C1Q-S96A
S109A C1Q-S109 Japan
S61D A B C
 
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