200T no one can fix local

I tried to look it up, but the official description didn't say anything about aerobic or anaerobic, and also nothing about resistance to gas. I think the stuff I used is more purposely a thread lock than a gap sealant. The strongest of the three types my local home center sells. The package says set up in ten minutes and 24 hours to properly harden. Even though it isn't hard after twenty four hours on the surface of the welch plug, after ten minutes coating a 1/4 inch bolt and putting on a nut, I couldn't budge the nut with pliers and muscle after ten minutes.
 
It's kind of odd stuff .If it's applied in a thin layer such as thread locker in ten minutes you couldn't budge it with a pipe wrench .If you pour it out in a small puddle or in a container it stays liquid for days .Gets thicker of course over time but not hard .Actually you can't hold it in a puddle straight out of the botlle because it runs like water .

For repairs on the engines at work they keep some in a dish with a little brush in case the machines with the "spinners " are malfunctioning .All the plugs in those aluminum block engines are sealed with red .They used to use blue on cast iron engines .

Blue is okay for water/anti freeze but not so good on gasoline .
 
Loctite makes a threadlock for fasteners bigger than 1". It is listed on the back of blister packs. I went to NAPA and bearing houses trying to get some. Good luck. The power steering valve assembly for a tractor came off. It was on the end of the steering shaft, down inside a housing. I had to make a special spanner to tighten it. Tried the dealer - he said they never had one come off. Anyhow, I didn't want to do the job again, hence the looking for special loctite. I ended up using the regular red.
 
Good info. The stuff I used was red. Hopefully it hardened in the gap even though the puddle remained soft.
 
I'll get the number of the stuff at work .I know it will lock bigger than 1 inch .There's some other stuff they use to hold bushing in with also that will fill larger gaps but 30 years ago it was 45 bucks for a tiny little bottle .

Fact I have some shrink fit compound that probabley will work .I'll get the number later on today .
 
I have had troubles too with the 200T's carb and his accelerator pump.
I had good success, so I made a tutorial for the french arboriste forum about a repair technique.
But there is a lot of to translate, so I need some more time. Coming soon.
 
I have a carb from an 026 that has a crack in the white plastic right angle nipple that the fuel hose goes onto (I think, since its a year or so since I took it apart and never got back to it) Can I fix that crack with loctite?
The saw always used to cut out on idle once it got warm, and would be a bear to restart, then would not restart until you let it sit for a while.
 
Fiona, Loctite makes many products, so you need one specifically designed for bonding plastics. I think that Epoxy will generally have good resistance to gasoline.
 
I sealed the carb welch plug and it didn't solve the saw not wanting to rev properly problem. I took off the starter cover to look at the impulse line again :|:, rotated the flywheel and there was a little ticking sound as it went around. It turned out the magnet gap was non-existent, the magnets actually making very slight contact. Now that will mess things up, but the start up and idle was fine, so it never occurred. Much ado about nothing.... :|:
 
Apparently. When it wouldn't rev it made a weird popping ignition sound. Considering it now, like the fuel building up but not firing during every cycle. Possibly the sound a tip off for such a malady?
 
I had a couple saws here that had ignition out of place, even loose.
One 51 that one screw was missing and the other on the way out. With exception of a sound that made my skin curl, it ran ok.
I don't think there is a drop needed to loosen them, vibrations will fix that unless they are set with something good.

I put new lock washers if I have bolt out.
 
Bermy said:
I have a carb from an 026 that has a crack in the white plastic right angle nipple that the fuel hose goes onto (I think, since its a year or so since I took it apart and never got back to it) Can I fix that crack with loctite?
The saw always used to cut out on idle once it got warm, and would be a bear to restart, then would not restart until you let it sit for a while.
Click to expand...

I had this happen on a 034. I removed the white plastic and ran a piece of fuel line inside the stihl fuel line and attached to the new line to metal nipple that was left in carb. I used small zip ties on the ends snugged down, just in case. Saw is still running cutting firewood without any problems of the redneck fix.
 
My 200 is acting up again. Took it to the shop in town. Stihl dealer, but not much of a mechanic, at least on 200's. He had the saw for a month and figured nothing out. Said the carb was fine and needed to order a part to seal off the exhaust to pressure test it. Waited and waited, then finally just went and picked up the saw (never got pressure tested). Mechanic thought it had an air leak, so maybe I'll start replacing seals...not sure what else to do. The raising the fuel lever trick worked for a while then it started getting flooded. Rebuilt the carb too, minus the welch plugs. Not sure what else to do. PITA!
 
They can be tricky that is for sure.
Saws is getting worse each model that come out. Harder to test and more of guessing game...
 
Cut4fun said:
I had this happen on a 034. I removed the white plastic and ran a piece of fuel line inside the stihl fuel line and attached to the new line to metal nipple that was left in carb. I used small zip ties on the ends snugged down, just in case. Saw is still running cutting firewood without any problems of the redneck fix.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks! I'll try that...
 
The needle seat could be worn on the 200 carb. Pressure testing in a glass of water will determine, or just a pressure test to see if it is leaking in the first place. It should hold 10 psi.

It takes only a couple minutes to remove the carb on the 020 or 200, why a shop that can't solve the problem, won't stick on a good test carb to see what the results are, is beyond me. Loan it to the customer that way for a week. "Duh.....we can't fix it', does absolutely no good.
 
The only thing I can thing of with the flywheel hitting the magnets is perhaps it fired the "trigger voltage " too soon . Weather that's it or not,don't really know .

Most coil air gaps are 12 thou give or take . I won't get into points because almost noone uses them except old coots like myself with antiques .
 
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