200t carb adjustment

[sotc]

one of my 200ts is runnning like crap. runs fine till you work it, and while you work it but as soon as you hang it, it sputters and dies. then you have to crank 10-15 times to get it going again (flooded) and it runs great till you get off the throttle again. sugesstions?

 

[Burnham]

Send it to me, I'll "throw it away" for you...you just go buy a new one

 

[sotc]

ha! i already have to buy a new one after last week!

 

[rbtree]

Go to arborist site, and ask lakeside 53 for help. My guess is, you need to check your tank vent...filter, and fuel line...then clean the carb...and retune....likely something is wrong with one of all of the above. Prolly the coil/magneto, and their gap, and the spark plug, are all fine.


Or maybe buy a Jonsered 2139T from the fella in NY who sold me one for $350! It's just now breaking in, and has more torque than a 200T...while it prolly cuts a tad slower due to it turning 1500 less rpm, once I port the muffler, it should run like a raped ape. Starts on the 2nd crank, runs like a top.. Same saw as the 338...many of youse guys malign these saws....times have changed, they work!!

dealer support is lacking on the Jonsy, but its the same as the 338 save for a coupla covers....

 

[SkwerI]

Sounds like the low speed jet may be too rich. Run the saw until it's acting up, then turn the L screw in about an 8th- 16th of a turn. See if it acts any better.

If I'm wrong then the advice is free.

 

[rbtree]

Sounds like the low speed jet may be too rich. Run the saw until it's acting up, then turn the L screw in about an 8th- 16th of a turn. See if it acts any better.

If I'm wrong then the advice is free.

You might be right, there, "Rocky J." I didn't read sotc's post very well....

used to have a similar problem with old 335's...had to find the low speed jet's sweet spot.

 

[Al Smith]

Some time ago I was sent a 200 carb from Australia to troubleshoot .The damned thing had a casting defect crack in the area under the diaphragm .

Once this thing got to operating temps it would leak out into the main body and cause a lean out situation . Zama must have had a big run of bad carbs because Lakeside also added he has seen quite a few of these go bad . Stihl of course disavows all knowledge of same .:what:

They say the carb from a 020 will fix the problem but I've never tried it .

 

[sotc]

thanks, ill try both things

 

[sotc]

Sounds like the low speed jet may be too rich. Run the saw until it's acting up, then turn the L screw in about an 8th- 16th of a turn. See if it acts any better.

If I'm wrong then the advice is free.

so help me out here. heres the carb i need to adjust and the one from my smashed saw they dont look interchangeable. anywho the one in the saw only has one idle speed screw. i think its the low idle, how do i adjust this ugly thing

 

[SkwerI]

Willie,
On the top picture, the high speed adjustment is the one with the red plastic limiter cap on it. If you remove the red plastic limiter then you will have full adjustment. The screw beside it (with the L) is the low speed jet. The lower pic has a fixed, non adjustable main jet. The only way to adjust it is to disassemble the carb and replace the jet with a different size. I had an MS260 with that style carb and I ended up abandoning Stihl and buying Husqy because of that POS.

Yes, those two carbs appear to be interchangable. Throw away the one on the bottom. Then read this to adjust the carb.
http://www.madsens1.com/saw carb tune.htm

 

[sotc]

the plumbing appears to be different on the "dual screw" as i had thought that myself. if i stay with the current one, (lots of power at the top end) i can get away with adjusting the low idle screw? maybe ?

 

[SkwerI]

Going back and rereading your initial post in this thread, I'd sure try adjusting the original carb first. The screw marked L is the low speed jet. Screwing it in reduces fuel and screwing it out increases fuel at an idle. As soon as you hit the throttle, the main jet kicks in providing the majority of the fuel for the motor.

But if the saw ever starts running lean at WOT, I'd throw that carb away in a heartbeat and slap a new one on there. Carbs are only $50-$60, a burnt up motor is a lot more than that. Fixed jet carbs were one of the worst ideas Stihl ever had (worse than those stupid gas caps).

 

[sotc]

ok ill screw it in before i screw it up thanks brian

 

[SkwerI]

Speaking of carb adjustments, last week my buddy was having problems with his 200T. He went through the carb 3 times and still couldn't get it right. The saw would alternate between running perfect or running too lean. Turning out the adjustment screws had little to no effect. I went through the carb twice more and still couldn't find what was wrong. We slapped a new carb on the saw and now it runs perfect.

I'm good at adjusting a good carb, but I've had almost no success ever rebuilding a bad carb. I've tried dozens of times and might have been successful once or twice in the last 20 years. So now if I can't get it right with a simple cleaning, I'll just slap a new carb on it. That works 100% of the time and costs less than 1 hour of labor to rebuild one.

 

[sotc]

im not a carb guy by any means. ive bought a new carb before on a truck and a van, they seem to work great out of the box

 

[Al Smith]

Fixed jet carbs were one of the worst ideas Stihl ever had (worse than those stupid gas caps).

---fixed jet carbs are worst idea anybody ever had .Stihl wasn't the first to do this nonsesnse ,Mac,Homelite ,Wright division of Poulan came long before them .