Which knot for carabiner termination on rigging line?

Benjo75

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Malvern, Arkansas
Hey all. I'm thinking of dedicating a rope with a biner on one end for limby pines so I don't have to tie 500 knots a day. I've used it before and like it as long as were not around windows. I'm trying to decide between the Anchor or the Double Fishermans. I like the Anchor since it makes 2 turns around the biner. Seems like 2 turns around the biner would help with strength with the one tight bend. I also like the Double Fishermans since the tail exits from the top and isn't in the way. I'm open to any other suggestions that might work better. I won't use this on bigger limbs since it can be a problem pulling it out from under a bigger piece. Just small to medium limbs where I'm having to tie the bowline all day. Looking to shave a few seconds here and there. Thanks for any advice and hope everyone is staying safe and doing well during all this craziness. Thanks, Ben.
 
I always tell new people when I describe how fond of the Anchor Hitch I am .... " say you're on a ship at sea , and you had to knot the anchor ... if you lost the anchor you're a friggin' asshole "
 
I'll use the double fishermans on my flip line or positioning lanyard that rarely do I need to untie save for retirement or replacement.
For my termination on my climb line, anchor. Easier to untie as needed when needed. Line when pulling the line up into the tree without a biner on one end. Or removing the line from the tree. Since I don't have splices on my rope ends.
 
A scaffold hitch can be slipped off a carabiner and untied but I thought the point here was to stop with the knot tying and untying.
 
I just use a bowline, for pine limbs you’re never going to test its strength.
If we‘re going big, put a half hitch in front of it.
 
Scaffold (or fishermans) for me on smaller diameter lines. when the rope gets above 16mm I go to a bowline otherwise the knot can impair the function of the gate of the krab
 
I like the anchor hitch as well but only with lines 9/16" or smaller. Above that it's a RB for 5/8"-1" lines.
But I splice my lines. LOL
 
I spliced the last two 16 mm rigging lines and incorporated a thimble to deal with the small radius of the biner/shackle. My first one has a figure 8 on a bight with a thimble. It didn't let me down but it's way more bulky than the splice. Every chance it gets, it jams in, grabs or catches something, even a coil of the rope itself. No risk at all to loose it through the block tough.
On one of my climb lines, I use a sliding double fisherman (due to a kiss of the chainsaw). It keeps the biner tight, fits better in the biner than the anchor hitch, but the bulkiness is really annoying. I have to choose each time a wide enough crotch and even have to take care of the return path for retrieving the rope. More than once, a rebound sent the knot in a tight crotch on the way down.
 
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  • #16
Thanks for all the advice. Looks like there's not enough difference in strength to worry about. After rigging with it for a while I wasn't intending on untying it anyway. Probably just cut it off and loose 12 inches of rope. Would probably only be done a couple times in the life of the rope anyway.
 
Another vote for an anchor bend. Nothing wrong with scaffold as long as the carabiner will slide out easy. I like a steel snap as well. Buntline or a yosemite'd bowline for those.
 
Correction: i misspoke earlier, i meant buntline hitch rather than midshipman knot, which is a tautline variation. Very easy to tie, very secure, tightens in use, compact, and when you pull the crab you can easily untie. I watched a video once about how a scaffold knot could be tied incorrectly and look correct, so even though that isn't likely to happen i decided a different hitch would suit me better. I'm an idiot, so if i can simplify stuff that is important, it's better. A buntline is simply a clove hitch around the standing part, and a clove hitch is one that all fitters know (usually to a fault lol).
 
Double fisherman’s here.

I like it to cinch up tight and it holds the riggin crab in place nicely. Difficult to remove once you have loaded it repeatedly. But you can take the crab out and it comes undone relatively easily. It also means I dont use my xrings much as there is a big knot in my riggin’ line.
 
I agree with the herd, the anchor bend is awesome- fast, easy, secure. I use it on my climb line and it would be great for your rigging app too. But as Mik says, a bowline is more than adequate for what you have in mind. I used to worry about bend radius but after massive amount of use/reps, yeah nah. Also, I would recommend using an old steel non locking rope snap instead of a biner, it is even faster and easier imo for rigging.

Another benefit of using a snap or biner is that the rope will throw much better to those hard to reach spots.
 
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  • #23
Thanks for all the good advice. I played around with them Sunday. The Anchor seems to untie easier and maybe a little less secure until it gets loaded one good time. Double Fishermans is nearly impossible to untie unless I slide the biner out. But I think I'm going to try it and see. We got hit with 90 mph winds Sunday evening. Cleared highways and streets all night then worked til bedtime last night and tonight. Looks to be that way for a few more weeks. No power for a while too. Enjoying my generaror right now. Will have several weeks of structure and house clearing looks like.
 
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