Twisted clevis

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swampy036

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UPS guy came today:) dropping off my swivel and a twisted clevis. I only had time to try the clevis out on my flip line. WOW I can tension or just pull slack with out any effort. If I only knew about this before. Anyone else use this setup. Oh ya as soon as the UPS guy pulls in the old lady tells me it girls night out. Now I home drinking beer watching the kids with my saddle on looking for something to throw my climb line over to test the swivel set up OTGBOSTON posted.
 
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Use a bit of rubber or something to keep the clevis oriented correctly.

Butch, the twisted clevis helps keep the adjuster facing the right way
 
It is a deceivingly slight adjustmeant; that adds a lot of silkiness to the way the cam lines up to adjust lanyard as Frans says.

But; i feel like i evolved thru that; to have a prussik type adjustment cord tied right to the sideD; and reeve the tail of the lanyard thru the D; to then also use the D as a tender to adjust the prussik. The hitch will adjust under load/ cam won't. cord is lighter, less profile, cheaper too. Cam, is better for lots of pine pitch or ice on line; things that would trouble a hitch. but, otherwise the cord is better IMLHO.
 
We use them on all our saddles. Its an essential pice of kit. Pricey though.
 
Thanks Nick! What size do I need for my Gibbs? And don't they have them at Lowes? :?

I don't see a TC here, but the adjuster is facing the right way - right?

<img src="http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3217&stc=1&d=1207214950">
 
Hey butch, you need the 13/32 in. twisted clevis for the gibbs. There is a 5/16 in. that is used for the microcender.
 
I have looked for them at our local hardware store and only found a very small twisted clevis. It's a conspiracy. I got mine from Sherrill.
 
I have the long twisted clevis. It works better IMO.

Butch, your gonna have to go to a marine supply house and then it will be a special order.
Or......go through an arborist catalog
 
The Bosun's Supplies link Nick gave is a good source for rated stainless hardware. I picked up a 5/16" twisted clevis from them a while back.
 
I also use a twisted clevis; it seems to help a bit although I still find that the whole setup (clevis plus adjuster) can sometimes twist around on itself and needs untangling.

My only issue with it is, it doesn't allow much room for a soft link between your side d-ring and the adjuster. I have been told that a soft-link is recommended in case you ever need to cut yourself out of your flipline (wire core) in an emergency.
 
MB- I never owned a gibbs. I've used them before. Oh- and I've met the the pres of the company...Mr. Gibbs himself- but never owned one.

And the guy in the pic is using a gri-gri, or maybe an I'D. That rope comes out of it properly at a downward angle. On the gibbs it comes ot 90 degrees different.

love
nick
 
Kool Nick. The spring thingy on Mr. Gibbs cam breaks easily. Even on my second one, anymore, I just go it without the spring load on the cam on the gibbs.
 
I use a twisted clevis myself, although you should probably back up the screw pin with something to keep it from vibrating loose. Even after tightening mine with pliers, I've found it loose at the end of a day twice now. :O I now use a nylon zip tie to secure the hole in the pin back to the shank of the clevis so it can't back out more than 1/8 turn.
 
My recommendation for backing up a twisted clevis:

Get 1' of zing-it throwline. Fold the throwline around the clevis (not the pin) and bury the half the throwline into itself forming a tight eye. You essientially just made a 6" piece of zingit double braid with a super tight eye.

Install the clevis to the flipline/harness. If necessary, add loctite, then tighten the pin to the appropriate tension. Now feed that 6" tail through the hole in the pin. Pull tight and then form a small stopper knot as tight as you can. Leave a tail about 1/4" long and cut off the excess. Hold a flame to the 1/4" tail to prevent raveling.

love
nick
 
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