Twisted clevis

  • Thread starter swampy036
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I wish someone would make a locking carabiner that has a twist in the bottom similar to what a clevis has. Then you could use the same biner and swap out the ascender or friction hitch. I am also a fan of having the tail come out to the side.

...maybe I should have majored in engineering.:roll:

Maybe you are an engineer, you just don't know it yet.
 
For some reason I thuoght it was you at his both. My wife and I were looking at the GRCS start talking with the "salesman" after explaining we already had one he gave her his women version. This is the new and improved super slek and sexy model with a chrome finish. :lol: As she butts in and said just like the one we have. All in fun, that was the first trade show I went to. Looking forward to meeting more of the "salesmen" like that.



Hummm, I remember that now. I was tottally burnt out with talking to people so I decided to 'improvise'.

glad I made an impression, hope it was a good one.

Frans
 
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Hummm, I remember that now. I was tottally burnt out with talking to people so I decided to 'improvise'.

glad I made an impression, hope it was a good one.

Frans

Oh ya we almost got another one with that great pitch and a good impression. :lol:
 
I know its been a while on this one.. But I just found something. I must have seen this thang a hundred times and not clicked... An Adjuster with a swivel attachment point. Gibbs.. Plus it works on the 2 in 1 lanyard. Granted I would have to size down to 1/2" for mine as I run 5/8 cable core. But nice!
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Here is the page WesSpur has it on... Gibbs Klimair

http://www.wesspur.com/Lanyards/mechanical_adjusters.html
 
I prefer two lanyards myself... Just figured it would eliminate the need for the twisted clevis on an adjuster with the swivel built in. Won't work in my case cause I run cable core for the most part.
 
Also, the Gibbs Klimair adjuster does not allow 1-handed adjustment. It requires 2 hands to lengthen or shorten your lanyard.
 
I just HAD to try it , Johnny at Sherill told me in advance that I wouldn't like it when buying ..... If I didn't dislike it so much I was meaning to try it with say a 9mm or 10mm line ...
 
i like it for small removals wher i dont want to undo a climbing line but still want 2 snaps to stay tied in. couple times a year is all. i got a prototype but wouldnt pay the money for one
 
ive often thought id like to build a swivel like that for my micro cenders, wouldnt be to hard with a mill
 
Well back to a twisted clevis then it seems as I see it.. Just had never notice it before. I would have thought the swivel aspect of it would be nice to keep the adjuster in the right place.
 
I love my twisted clevis. I got a good reminder 2 days ago about looking it over far more often than i do.
The machine screw that holds it together backed out nd it came apart while i was in the midst of a removal. I was tied in and no harm was done but it got to my head a little bit.
 
Try backing up the pin with a plastic zip tie. Just go through the hole in the pin and around the shank so the pin can't back out. You have to cut the zip tie every time you take it off the saddle, but that's not a big deal.
 
I just use a beeline with a micro-pulley on my wire core lanyard, but if I was going to use a mechanical lanyard adjuster I would attach it with a Spectra Rope Grab. Its way cheaper than a clevis, rotates on its own to the proper orientation, and plus its a soft link so you can cut it if you need to.

media.nl
 
Most people prefer not to use a soft link on a steel core lanyard because it defeats the whole point of having a cut-resistant flipline if the part you are most likely to cut by accident is not cut-resistant.
 
Most people prefer not to use a soft link on a steel core lanyard because it defeats the whole point of having a cut-resistant flipline if the part you are most likely to cut by accident is not cut-resistant.

Plus, it flops around like a limp....well, it flops around.
:D
 
"Most people prefer not to use a soft link on a steel core lanyard because it defeats the whole point of having a cut-resistant flipline if the part you are most likely to cut by accident is not cut-resistant."


I disagree that the part you are "most likely to cut" of a wire core flipline would be the slack tender. I think you are most likely to cut either the main length of the flipline going around the spar or the tail hanging down. I would say you are least likely to cut the slack tender since it is so close to your body, you are naturally more careful with a saw when it's that close to you.

I'm just saying that looking at overall safety, a soft link for your slack tender makes sense because it gives you or someone else the ability to cut you out of your lanyard if need be. Chances are, if you're going to hurt yourself in a tree, it's going to be while you are using a chainsaw. And if you're using a chainsaw, you will or should have your lanyard in use. This means that if you hurt yourself, the person coming up to help will have to deal with you and your lanyard. So I think it makes sense that they should be able to cut you out if need be. I'm not one of these people who looks at everything in worst case scenarios, and I certainly don't think I would ever need to cut myself out of a lanyard, I just think a soft link makes sense. But to each his own, I don't think there's anything wrong with anyone's setup as long as it works for them.
 
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