Twisting spurs with Opsal pads

MarcM

TreeHouser
Joined
Jan 14, 2014
Messages
37
Hey all, couldn't find anything on search for this: I was on leather t-pads on my steel buckingham spurs for quite a while, and upgraded to the Opsals based on their reputation. Comfortable for sure, but ever since I started using them, I've noticed my spurs tend to want to twist on my feet a lot easier than with the t pads. Doesn't seem to matter if I wrap the shank or not. Doesn't seem to matter if I use them with chunky heel boot, or the low heel Merrill hikers I normally use when I climb without spurs. I think I've got the height adjusted right but maybe not? Any other tips/secrets I might be missing? Did/does anyone else have this problem?

Just to clarify, the spurs try to rotate inward, i.e., the spur likes to migrate backward toward my heel. Obviously not optimal to stop, readjust and re-tighten in the middle of a climb.
TIA!
 
Never heard of Opsals before, but then I haven't climbed in the last 12 years either. I'm in Florida and had the velcro wrap pads for a while but they are very hot. By far the most comfortable pads I ever used were the shin cup pads. I think Buckingham makes them, not sure. After I gave up climbing my shin cup pads ended up in Butch's hands and he became sold on them as well.
 
The only time I have spikes rotate like that is when I use them with my near heelless ground/hiking boots. I use Bashlin spikes that have a definite left and right hand orientation. Is it possible you have them on the wrong side?
 
Found a picture. They are designed to ride similar to the Caddy pads but they are smaller and more comfortable IMO. Notice how the mounting bracket is angled so they are not reversible, you must have them on the correct side to wear them.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Opsal is an old manufacturer of the generic "caddie pad". I have a set on my Bashlins. I don't know the reason for the rotating issue you are experiencing, wish I could help.
 
Hmm. That's the kind I have(Buckinghams above), and I've had zero twisting.
 
I have been having the same issue, i was going to shorten the height a bit to see if that helps, making it so it comes down to my calf a bit more to help keep them in place. My idea is that perhaps for my leg i have them too high, so they are sagging slightly when unweighted so they have just enough wiggle room to slip. They are comfy, and maybe that's why I'm not noticing discomfort or movement but they actually hold really well too unlike the double soft pad so it is a problem after i switched. I'm part time tho, so ignore me please :lol:
 
Are you tightening them enough Kyle? I crank down on both straps. It's borderline uncomfortable til everything finds it's place, but they don't go anywhere. That spruce I did, the spurs were burying in the wood, and they didn't budge with me twisting/cranking/pulling on them to get free.
 
Any tighter i would need a come along. I've tried the wrap as well, and i leave the uppers loose, which helps a bit.
 
I would suspect that would be how the "irons" fit up under your foot. Does the metal flat plate ride parallel to the bottom of your shoe?

After that, the pads may need to ride up higher above the bulge in your calf muscle so they cannot slip down and allow for slop and rotation. (?)
 
Most climbers make the mistake of having the shin pads too high. Give them a try about an inch lower.

I know for myself, I need a twisted shank spur that sets the arch forward and into the boots heel pocket.
 
Are you tightening them enough Kyle? I crank down on both straps. It's borderline uncomfortable til everything finds it's place, but they don't go anywhere. That spruce I did, the spurs were burying in the wood, and they didn't budge with me twisting/cranking/pulling on them to get free.

For what it's worth, this old school spur climber with too many years to count on caddie pads/Bashlins would advise a completely different practice, so far as tightening goes.

Snug as I can get them without being crazy about it on the lower strap (and I never have used a wrap around the shank...tried it some early on, but found it kept me from getting an evenly distributed snugness)...but the upper strap I just tighten barely enough to get some middling tension. That calf muscle needs to be able to flex, to bulge under work load. Cut into that, and you are asking for trouble imo.

Now that I consider it, it might even be that restricting that muscle movement is causing the shanks to shift around, trying to find a settled position, rather than just allowing the shank to ride easy on the calf with a less tight upper strap. I don't know, but if it was me I'd at least give it a try with a looser upper strap.
 
I'll give a looser fit a try next time. I've never done it any other way. I put them on tight, it seemed to work, and I went with it.
 
If it works for you, that's as good as it needs to be. Just some thoughts from an old fart. Might help the OP, was what I was thinking.
 
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  • #22
I have been having the same issue, i was going to shorten the height a bit to see if that helps, making it so it comes down to my calf a bit more to help keep them in place. My idea is that perhaps for my leg i have them too high, so they are sagging slightly when unweighted so they have just enough wiggle room to slip. They are comfy, and maybe that's why I'm not noticing discomfort or movement but they actually hold really well too unlike the double soft pad so it is a problem after i switched. I'm part time tho, so ignore me please :lol:
It's cool man, me too :)
I would suspect that would be how the "irons" fit up under your foot. Does the metal flat plate ride parallel to the bottom of your shoe?

After that, the pads may need to ride up higher above the bulge in your calf muscle so they cannot slip down and allow for slop and rotation. (?)

That is definitely at the core of the problem. I think you may have nailed it. They tend to slide down just enough for slop and rotation, as you say, no matter how hard a crank down on the foot strap. And I've never really had to crank down the foot strap with my old setup. And it happens when I'm gaffed into a sticky type situation, like the soft sapwood of a sugar maple, and I've been in one place long enough that the spur has really sunk it. Like when ya gotta give a good umph just to get your spur out.

I'll try a little lower, and a little higher, and see how it goes. I was caught a little off guard because the my spurs never twisted even on heel-less boots when I was using the old t pads. But on those days when your aloft for 8 hours, t pads are just brutal on the shins. Especially in my work pant of choice, double front Carhartts.

Thanks again all for the help and advice. I'll let you know if I have any revelations for the one or two in the thread experiencing the same problem.

And hey, I know I'm not a regular around here, so here's an ugly mug to go with the name, on my own ol' homestead:
aloft.jpg
 
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  • #24
Tree work is a good skill to have develop! What do you do for work on your homestead?

Oh it's not much of a homestead. I'm on a couple acres, but surrounded by 160 acres of family farm land. I have some informal responsibility in maintaining the farmland, mostly involving keeping the damned fence lines cut back, which is also where all my firewood comes from. Also clearing up dead falls and the like. It was a dairy farm and my father co-owed that business with his uncle. When he passed and my father went into engineering, the land went to my father's cousins and you know, now it's one of those big family circus deals, without going into too much detail. But we've got a newer 40 hp 4wd tractor with a loader, bush hog... the farmland is leased to a guy who makes small square bales so I'm sometimes involved with that. My father just had the 1952 Farmall Super C bought new by my great uncle restored to like new condition- that's gorgeous now. Also have a '63 ish Massey Ferguson 85 that runs decent, but could use some body work, lol. The seat cushion currently is a piece of PU foam wrapped in an old shower curtain.

I've been cutting firewood since I was a kid. Had a farmboss, but eventually started falling trees that needed a good sized saw and nabbed myself a 372 off fleabay that is still my go to saw to this day. I got into climbing because I had some overgrown blue and white spruce that needed removal on my property (and I always loved it, I always climbed trees as a kid, I was just drawn to it). No room to drop them, but straightforward climbs; limb up, chunk down. That was about 10 years ago. I started branching out [/pun] from there, self learning DdRT, very basic rigging, very basic pruning. Bought a used 200T in good nick. Eventually started doing favors for family, then co-workers started paying me to do jobs and it kind of turned into my side gig. That and hand filing chains for people, lol. I have a groundie buddy who helps occasionally when I need to do some rigging, I end up doing a job every month or so, and it works out pretty well. I'm as conservative as you can get- I'm never afraid to tell people when to hire a pro, or a bucket truck. I do low risk stuff and only when the homeowner is doing cleanup. I'll buck stuff into firewood for someone If I like em but that's about it. I get it on the ground and I'm on my way.

There's an outside chance my father and I will try to buy or buy into the farm land again; he does almost all the maintenance on the buildings and equipment now, and gets nothing in return. He's just emotionally invested in the land and buildings. The big red barn in the photo is circa early 1800s. I inherited the white farmhouse in '08 and have been renovating/restoring it ever since. That dates back to about 1780.
 
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