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Tsumura bars

stig

Patron saint of bore-cutters
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I've just found out that I can buy these in Sweden.
The exchange rate from Danish to Swedish kroner is VERY much in my favour.

Do any of you have any experience with them and how well they hold up?
 
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Magnus

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Tsamura and Sugihara is very simular. They are a bit pricey for me but very good. I like the solid bars Sugihara made before. Lasted forever...
Is it Svens Maskin i Harads?
 

Frankie

I Build and Run Ported Saws !
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STIHL ES are some of the toughest bars made ... I do have a cannon “superbar” and it seems a notch above the rest ... pricey but Last long time .... sugi and t-M are excellent choices also
 

Nutball

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I don't know if Tsumara is better than Stihl, but certainly a high quality alternative to Stihl along with Total while being cheaper than Sugi. I think they are all about equal. I have had a 32" Total bar get bent pretty far, and I was about certain it would hold a bend, but it straightened out after I got the chunk of wood off it.
 

Jonny

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Are Stihl ES solid bars? I should know that, I got enough of them. Laminated I think, but never seen one separate even a little. I like them well enough but am interested in a light 28” and 32”
 

lxskllr

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ES are solid, and E are laminated. ES Light are solid with pockets milled out and filled.
 

greengreer

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Todd NC
I've been running the tsumuras for a while. Their super hard wearing, just like the sugis but a bit cheaper. The lightweight models are also lighter than sugis in the bigger sizes, as the cutouts are full length.
 

Magnus

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I've found those hold a bend unlike the solid ones which are like leaf springs.
+1 And solid bars bend less to begin with. Make groove stay in shape longer as well as rails. Hardwood fallers here blow bar tips more than bars. so if its solid I just replace and out they go...
 

stig

Patron saint of bore-cutters
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Aug 26, 2007
Messages
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Tsamura and Sugihara is very simular. They are a bit pricey for me but very good. I like the solid bars Sugihara made before. Lasted forever...
Is it Svens Maskin i Harads?
Yes it is.

Thanks for the replies everybody.

I won't be buying any right now, however.

Richard cleaned out the filing shop in the lunch wagon today and found 6 new 20" bars that someone had placed on the top shelf, where nobody can see them, and forgot all about, apparently.

So we are good for bars the next 2 months or so.
 

Nutball

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Can you do any maintenance to get more than a couple months out of your bars, or are they that far gone by then? Maybe go up a chain gauge or something?
 

Frankie

I Build and Run Ported Saws !
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The best bars (albeit pricey) are made by Cannon ... the rails are heat treated to a higher Rockwell than ANY available chain and they are precision ground to within thousandths of an inch ! You pay more up front but the product is superior all the way around .... AP bar shop sometimes has them on sale as well as other brands ... good guy ; ordered from him and wasn’t happy with a bar , sent it back and got a greater value cannon + two 3/8 .050 STIHL RS chains on the house ! ... cant beat that with a stick gents !!!!
 

stig

Patron saint of bore-cutters
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They are also very heavy.
I'll gladly trade a bit durability for lighter weight.
 

Frankie

I Build and Run Ported Saws !
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Messages
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Yes the ARE heavy for sure ! But they are also the BEST imho ... using a ported 395xp with a 25” STIHL lightweight ES vs a 25” Canon Buckin logs on the ground I don’t think you are really gonna notice the difference.(plus believe it or not the cannon superbar is cheaper than the lightweight STIHL ES ) using in a tree ? Yes but if you got the pipes to run that Saw I don’t think a little more weights gonna bother most
 

Cut4fun

Redneck Chainsaw Repair
Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
2,635
I like the Tsu bars. Rails are unreal hardened.

What I get in if a guy wants a premium bar but not at the premium prices others want.

p44511111.jpg tsubar.jpg tsu.jpg tsugb.jpg
 

lxskllr

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Jul 21, 2019
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MD USA
My previous "big saw" was a MS362 with a 25" ES bar. Made it very nose heavy, and made it feel heavier than the raw numbers indicated. My 661 with the same bar is much nicer to heft. IMO, balance is better than lower weight.
 

lxskllr

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Jul 21, 2019
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Well, I guess my argument is an out of balance saw(speaking more of nose heaviness here) feels heavier, and is harder to maneuver than a heavier saw with better balance. Maybe it's my technique, but I feel like I'm fighting a nose heavy saw. The two solutions in my case are go with a lightweight bar if that makes up the deficiency, or go with a bigger saw for a "free" performance boost.
 

Frankie

I Build and Run Ported Saws !
Joined
Feb 28, 2019
Messages
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Location
Buffalo NY
I’m not a fan of bars longer than 32” , me no likey all that reciprocating mass that far away ; I prefer a 25” even on 90cc saws ... assuming that you get 22”+ of actual cut that’s STIHL a 44” tree which I seldom encounter
 

Magnus

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I had a customer here that could not get more than a couple weeks out of the bars.
After some time of discussions and trials they lasted 6 months in beech cutting.
Its well worth the time to find something that work well.
Its not just the bar that decide it is also saw, chain, rim, job and user that is in this equation.
For his logging we found a bar that worked a hole lot better.

Its not always a good thing to have hard rails, not all chains can handle it.
 
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